• ......Greasy grubby mitts fondling steel fresh off the boat.........Still unsure about the paint. It's in great condition, but I really want a pink and yellow bike. Going to put it together, see how it fits and rides, then decide on the paint.

  • its 1", I thought the same when I first picked it up. i scratched of the paint so i could slam it. it went down, but not all the way. cant figure out why???

  • Have not got the bars I am going to use yet. First mock up.

    edit: better picture in the light of day.

  • looks good, ever so slightly saddened that you're not using knobblies, but they're not so practical for the city.

  • This is only the first incarnation. I am sure it will evolve and change over time......Maybe even be built as a full-blown CX bike one day.......but for now, knobblies are not needed as it will be used on London roads for the majority of time.

  • Build mark II:
    New bars arrived, aptly named after an 80's Italo disco outfit.
    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9xBAtCsCTQ"]Trans-X
    - Living On Video Official Video - YouTube[/ame]

    The other stem was not doing it for me, not totally sure about this one either, but it gives me a nice compact position and feels better all round........ Maybe a short MTB stem with an Ahead converter.......
    Wanted to give it a little test ride see how it felt before i replace the headset and maybe partially re-paint neon pink. still unsure about this.



    Unfortunately i am having an issue with my front left-hand canti boss. bolt wont go in all the way, stops mid screw. Thinking i may need to get it tapped, or at a last resort replaced?(can i replace it myself?). Anyone recommend someone to tap that shit? Really want to keep the cost down on this build.

  • Usually they're M6x1.0 which is a standard M6 screw
    You can probably pick up the tap you need on ebay or from an engineering supplier.. If you go down the DIY route you'll need something to hold it with i.e. a tap wrench.
    A small adjustable spanner can be used as well (with care).

    love the bar/stem combo by the way.
    The frame is beautiful in the flesh, great to meet you and thanks again for the inner tube - you're a lifesaver.

  • Thanks for the beer!
    I think its a standard thread. Know of anyone who has the tap and a little more experience than none?...........Or is it as simple as putting it in the boss hole and slowly turning? if i mess it up, can the boss be un-screwed and replaced?

  • If it screws in halfway you shouldn't have too much trouble.
    The trickiest part of hole tapping is getting started without wonkiness.
    Unfortunately the stakes are rather high, cock up and it's a brazing job....
    Once you get going, do 2 turns clockwise, 1 anticlockwise to clean the swarf from the cutting edge.
    put some oil in the hole before you get going, and when you get to the bottom don't keep turning or you may risk snapping the tap off in the boss!

    Before resorting to the tap. a first step would be to make sure the thread is clean and the screws well lubed. Shine a torch into the thread and see if there's any crap in there, if so, hook it out with something. A bit of grease on a well cleaned screw might make matters easier.

    Depending on how much thread engagement you have an alternative and rather more simple solution might be to chop the bolt short.... I've heard it stated that the minimum engagement for steel on steel should be 65% of nom. diameter (i.e. for an M6 screw that would be 4mm) so 100% should be fairly safe i.e. cut the canti fixing screw to 7mm long.

  • Took you advice. Cut down the bolt. Removed 4mm. Greased it up. Was enough thread to it tighten up. Don't see it being much of an issue......Thanks buddy!

  • No worries
    by the way, what are those rims, they look very nice. are they CXP30's?

  • CXP30 sounds about right. but i peeled all the stickers of a few years ago, hung them up and forgot about them. laced to shimano hubs, but have no idea what model............. off for my first test ride.

  • Holy shit balls! So much fun to ride, feels like a tank and it's fast. Had to tweak a few bits. Seat post higher ect.
    I have a few minor component changes, cable hangers, cables, pads, headset (maybe MTB stem)and re-grease wheels:

    Real question is........ Should i paint it pink and yellow when i strip it down? This is not a subtle classic build, this is a fun, pub bike.....



  • Looks great, hope you get the break issue sorted out.

  • He already did

  • yup brakes sorted, running really well. Going to strip down change headset, cables ect...... Should i pink to yellow fade?

  • If you think you can do it that well yes!

  • I have been spray painting most of my life. It wont be paint porn, but i think i will be able to do quite a decent job....... hopefully.

  • Definitely give it some sick fadez, looking forward to seeing the result!

  • oh yes! radical!

  • and now post a pic with you wearing a mask

  • this is my day-to-day look.

  • Rogan was going to lend me his Campagnolo BB tool. Impatience is a virtue, so i started. I'm not painting down to the BB area so i guess it can stay in(masked off). Headset(masked) is also staying in as i will be riding it to the bike kitchen on Saturday and using there tools to swap it over. I have decided the yellow paint is shit quality. Its gloopy and i can see a few rust spots coming through. ok its not that bad, but its not great. This will be a quick stop gap till next year when i will get a nicer professional job done....... and possibly convert into a real live cyclocross bike. ......... But for now, and the foreseeable future it will be my daily bash/pub/fun bike. So neon pink fade on the way........

    After a light sand in the areas i am painting/wiped down with white spirit. A thin coat of white, this will help the pink pop.
    Its now drying in my bathroom. Too cold outside.

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About

Something for the weekend sir? Diamante cyclocross: London road pot-hole jumper.

Posted by Avatar for luckyskull @luckyskull

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