Going clipless and which shoes?

Ordered some Giro gauge from royles, hopefully theyre as good as theyre reviewed

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/giro/privateer-hv-mtb-shoes-ec039186

Any of you used these before?
Seem to be good for my wide feet.. And I have a bit of a thing about black and gum colourways...

I tried them on dakin at the bike show this weekend, and the giro gauge's as well (the model up) very comfy, check royles.biz to see if they have your size in their sale

I went for the gauges purely because the the hugely discounted price at the bike show the price difference was negligible for the carbon sole, but they're very comfy

I think I'll do a sneaky trying them on at Evans and then buy them cheap online

They didnt have them in the 2 evans stores i tried

ah mayn..
maybe get my feet measured properly at a shop then order online then

Does anyone have a recommendation of whom I can go for some custom insoles?

ProFeet in Fulham.

http://www.profeet.co.uk/location

Not cheap, mind. But my dad used to get excruciating pain in his feet no matter what ski boots he had. ProFeet soles sorted that right out.

Exactly my issue, I can either have lots of shim on my current soles, or just get a custom one made.

major issue for me when cycling/walking long distance.

Ed, are you looking for an insole or an orthotic?

I had to get orthotics a while back because I was getting terrible knee pain from running.

I find all the different manufacturers come up different in sizes..I am a 44 in specialized but 45 in sidi's.
Try before you buy.

Shimano R107 shoes are interesting; can run SPD-SL and SPD/ATAC on the same shoe with a crabon plate under the cleat area keeping things stiff and velcro/ratchet upper and all for £80

Quite tempted by those

I use north wave shoes. I got pretty wide feet and Shimano shoes don't fit.

These are so comfortable. I can walk om them all day if I want to.

Wrong shoes noticed after posting and I can't find an edit button. They look the same but I got the mountain bike version.

Does anyone know a bike shop that stocks large sized spd shoes? size 12 and wide? A couple of months ago I ordered a bunch of shoes through Evans to try but without success and I do not want to repeat the process of paying upfront and returning them.

I don't agree with this last bit, and I hear loads of people saying size up with sidis they run really small etc -cycling shoes are supposed to be tight. I wear a 10 in street shoes ( Crockett and Jones or Converse) I wear a 44.5 in Sidis and these fit like they should, a snug fit with almost no toe room.
Trying shoes on when your feet are swollen from a days walking riding whatever is definitely good advice

http://www2.bsn.de/cycling/shoe-sizing.html

*Cycling shoes must be stiff, fit snugly and offer good support. One should not purchase too-small a set of shoes. If one or more toes make contract with the toe-cap when full-weight is applied toe-down then the shoe is too small. Up-until a few years ago, when shoes were made completely of thin perforated leather, it was not uncommon to purchase shoes 1 size or so too small, soak them in bathwater and let them strech to the correct snug fit. This legendary trick has, however, become obsolete by the newer (vastly superior) shoe generation and their use of modern materials. Good shoes feature very stiff and lightweight composite soles (often carbon) and sophisticated designs with natural (often specially treated leather) or synthetic uppers. The uppers are constructed to meet the demands of clipless automatic pedals: so a cart of mules could not pull it off!. Shoes should be purchased to fit at time of purchase. Unfortunately cycling shoes are, generally, not available in different widths [ed: Cycling shoes are a niche market. The concept of proper fit is on the decline in the entire shoe industry. In the hey-day of the New England cottage men's shoe industry a wide range of sizes and widths (some offering even two or more width measurements) where available in an assortment of derby, oxford and monk forms. Men apparently felt left-out from fashion and the market demanded trendy, poor-fitting, light weight, thin soled cheap imports. The trend since the 70s has continued and has taken with it several well-known companies. To become competitive even many well known international bootmakers (eg. Swiss Bally) reduced in the 80s the range of their available widths. New England's Alden, despite their use of 2 distinct width per shoe are typically sold in only a small range of widths. In Germany most shoe stores (including the up-market shops with $400 half-shoes) don't carry much other than a w-i-d-e width! There are, fortunately, a few rare exceptions but the message is that shoes with different widths are on the decline.]. The width should be snug but not tight. Too much sloppiness can effect knee stability and possibly affect the leg muscles due to over-compensation. A too small, or narrow shoe can effect circulation and produce pain and numbness. One should keep in mind, when trying shoes on, that ones feet can tend to slightly swell while in the saddle.

The only way to find correct shoes is by trial-and-error. While one maker might be too narrow another might be too wide. In general, the American/Taiwan/Korean shoes tend to be average to wide and the French and Italian shoes are average to narrow width.

The trend over the last decade is for shoes to be made wider. Since most newer shoes deploy a removeable insole [ed: often being produced in the same Asian factory alongside other U.S. and European branded mass market athletic shoes], sometimes "glued" in, a (very) slightly wider shoe can be compensated with an alternative, perhaps custom thermoplast, insole; but too narrow shoes just won't fit.

Despite a unified shoe-size measure, ones size can vary as much as 1 or more units from maker to maker, model to model and even production run. The number on the shoe is not the guide but the fit! The only way is to try the shoes on in a well sorted shop--- and don't forget to wear your favorite cycling socks.*

Shimano R107 shoes are interesting; can run SPD-SL and SPD/ATAC on the same shoe with a crabon plate under the cleat area keeping things stiff and velcro/ratchet upper and all for £80

They'd kill mtb cleats in no time, wouldn't they, with no lugs to speak of?

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Do they come with the shoe, or is it a hard to find add-on?

SH70/SH71 cleats are for DuraAce road (PD7410) SPDs, still easy to get them.

Also, you won't be doing much walking in those shoes, so normal SPD cleats which match your pedals will be fine.

just won some Time Atac XC2 's on the bay.
only 3 quid less than online but meh..

now to save for some Giro Privateers..
Or should I just go Shimano MTB shoes?