Any question answered...

Hey can anyone help me out here on my current project?https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/301770/?offset=50#comment13569884

Basically how much thread should be showing on a pista BB?

Front mech high limit screw keeps going out of whack pretty much after every ride. Obviously a threadlocking compound is the answer but I'm both poor and lazy.

Would putting a dab of super glue in there be a viable alternative or should I stop being a tight arse?

It'll definitely stop it vibrating loose but I reckon it'll also stop you ever adjusting it again, threadlocking compounds are generally more effective the smaller the thread. I'd be more tempted to try and use either one of the milder flavours of loctite or a little sliver of PTFE tape.

Ebay is your friend if you're a tight arse:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/V-Tech-Thread-locker-Medium-Strength-Blue-VT-843-6ml-Threadlock-Threadlocker-/261953643614?hash=item3cfda7645e:g:BUAAAOSw~gRVlp3n

So the stem I bought that was advertised as a 26.0 clamp is in fact a 25.8 (-0.0/+0.2)mm. It's already marked the new bars I bought, aargh, so is tapping the bars fully into place with a mallet a really bad idea, or should I try and find another 150mm stem with a true 26.0 clamp?

150mm stem means you should just buy a new frame

Possibly, but I'm 6'5" with orangutan arms, so I need a long stem for most OTP frames, and alas a custom isn't on the cards at the moment.

advertised as a 26.0 clamp is in fact a 25.8 (-0.0/+0.2)mm

25.8+0.2=26.0 😀

The two sizes are interchangeable, because both have to allow for the wide tolerance range on handlebar diameter.

Not sure where you're planing to use the mallet, but the more conventional method of dealing with a close fit in a bar clamp without a detachable face is to use some form of pry bar to spring it open enough to avoid scraping the bars.

Well indeed - I just reckon this is at the 25.8 end of things. It's​ a 3TTT pro chrome stem as seen here:
[http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?id=35bb02f0-289f-4889-bda1-12a12c4fcd90], and I've opened the clamp up using the reverse the bolt and use a penny to brace it against trick. It's just that because of the way the clamp is welded to the stem about half of the circumference of the clamp doesn't open at all, and the centre bulge of the bars is binding. I could encourage them in with a mallet but am a little leery of adding scratches and stress risers right at the point of highest stress.

you should just buy a new frame

Not sure where you're planing to use the mallet

I'm 6'5" with orangutan arms

Rear derailleur issues. When I'm in the big ring, shifting at the rear is fine, however when in the small ring, the chain slips when in gears 4-10 (i.e. its fine in the three largest sprockets), which isn't great as I'm in Yorkshire at the moment...

Chain and cassette replaced for new at the same time 2 weeks ago.

What the likely diagnosis here? B-Screw?

Almost certainly not the B-screw adjustment. This only really affects the accuracy and ease of shifting.

Cheers.
It's possible the derailleur hanger got knocked in transit, but I don't see how that would only affect shifting when in the inner ring?

I had this (Campag), just needed a bit more fiddling with the barrel adjusters.

I take it that the chain you replaced was the same length as the one you removed?
Sheldon says:

Full-link overlap, correct
with chain on the large chain-
wheel and sprocket but not yet
run through the rear derailer

Well the chainset and cassette are different sizes to before (shifting was fine before also) - But you may be in to something in that the new chain may be too long. Thinking about it, I also get a little slippage in the 11 tooth in the big ring, which backs up this idea...

I have Shimano XT rear mech. Will it work with these Gevenalle GX 1x10 DynaSys shifters ? Which I plan to use with Spyre so I am guessing short pull.

£229.99?! Jesus fuck!

£179 .. the other option is get 5700 used and use wolftooth tanpan or something. Works out similar-ish.

Are these for the super stupid super stupid build?

nah its to convert my diverge to drop bar

The mech is dynasys so that's what they're made for.

EVERYTHING current shimano MTB is dyna-sys right?

External threadless 1 1/8" headsets. Any reason not to go with this, the cheapest option. Sealed bearings. Nicer than the square shape FSA one its replacing.

Sorry, 10 speed dynasys.