Any question answered...

Why you ask James?

Are they going to your Inbox or Spam folder? If the former, mark all of the emails as spam, this will inform your mailbox provider's own filter and add to the denigration of the sender's reputation.

2BA but unlikely or 3/16" BSC

Both under 5mm, his hole is over 5mm. 2BA is close on pitch, I'm sure we've all put 2BA screws into M5 threads and barely noticed, BSC would be 26TPI which is a long way off, you'd only get an M5 screw about 1 turn into that.

Including parts -cable, blocks, pads, nut and outer cable for rear D

http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/uk-made-headset-complete.htm
https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/view-product/Uberbike-15-Headtube-Tapered-Fork-Headset-Stainless-Steel-Bearings-Green

That actually great value.

Usually shop charge between £60-80 for labour only on a general/silver service, not including the part.

He was famously irate about bike shop charges for work.

The thread shouldn't be worn, given it's a brand new frame (which does beg the question why a frame builder would use a part containing obsolete threading).

Given that I can find no cable adjusters using imperial threading at all, it looks like my best option would be to tap the thread out to M6, which I would assume should be possible?

tap the thread out to M6, which I would assume should be possible?

If the major diameter of what's already there is well over 5mm, an M6 thread will be weak as the proper drill size is 5.0mm. I tap oversized holes out to M6 all the time for keeping my wheels in the frame, but they're not significantly loaded along the thread axis and the holes are only about 0.2mm oversize. You'll have to make your own judgement about how much oversize the hole is and how the load will interact with the ensuing reduced flank contact.

You could use a fluteless (thread forging) tap, but they are expensive to buy and hard to use. The correct pilot hole for a fluteless M6×1.0 tap is 5.5mm

Superb, thank you.

bah! but thanks. Let's see what Mr. Rychtarski has to say about his choice of threading.

Brilliant. Now I might learn indexing!

That sounds like brilliant advice.

Works with yahoo online mail. You need to input the server details.
https://www.lifewire.com/what-are-windows-live-hotmail-pop3-settings-1170860

Can anyone recommend a classic style saddle that's just a bit wider than a Rolls? Rolls I have at the moment is lovely but on less spirited rides it cleaves my bum asunder somewhat.

...or recommend somewhere in London I could try a few saddles out for size. I would be looking to buy second hand in all likelihood though.

Cheers.

In a similar look? In which case Turbos are good. Flights are a good look on most post-90s bikes imo.

Brooks are classic and have different widths (although all are relatively wide IIRC)

Might be worth going to an Evans and using a Specialized arse measuring tool to work out what width saddle you need

Regal?

Not a fan of Brooks or the Regal, bit try hard. Do like the Turbo and Flite. I'll see how they pan out on the arze. Thanks both

Bearing halp plz.

Servicing a Ritchey Pro Drop In headset: 1 1/8" and takes caged 1/8" (3.18mm) bearings, which is rather uncommon.

Struggling to find replacement bearings: I've found loose bearings, but the cage has disintegrated so need them in a retainer.

Searching is a pain as any string containing 1/8" also brings up 1 1/8".

Fangs in advance.

^^ "Try hard" for a design that pre-dates almost all others?

Do TB14 rims show break wear very quickly or not?

Looking to build up a track set (used on street with front brake) and dont want obvious breaking wear on the front rim..

Do you need a retainer - can you not just convert it to loose balls and add an extra couple?

I don't know, but you can reduce rim wear by using Koolstop salmon pads. They hold a lot less grit, and easier to see when they do need bits digging out. Using a pair with Mavic Ellipse.

Are you getting the anodized grey / black?