Any question answered...

Afraid not, the GPU has a DVI-out, which is converted to VGA before being converted again into HMDI.

Thinking about it, the GPU had 2 little ports, which looked like a cross between HDMI and USB. After googling the GPU it looks like they are 'DisplayPort' connections and sounds like it's easy to convert these to HDMI.
Anyone had any issues with this?

Cross-post from the wanted section. Has anybody used a decent man and van service in South London (New Cross/Deptford kind of area)?

OR any forummers with a van (or access to a ZipVan) fancy making a few coins one evening this week? Just shifting a sofa North of the river.

Cheers!

I've used display port to HDMI in the past with no issues. It carries the sound too.

I might have the cable you need @Pifko

I've got a cable here, appears to be never used, HDMI male -> DVI male.

Cheers @Hippy , but I need sound carried to the HDMI input so the TV can output the audio. There's no way I'm having my nice speakers lying around with 2 young children present :)

@aggi - Sounds perfect then if it carries the sound. I'll give that a go and then hit up @hippy for his cable if the adapter option doesn't work out...

Does DVI do sound? I have no idea. My video cabling knowledge stopped at VGA.

nope

So I bought a 1/2" sliding t-bar and some hex bits, and it's still not budging at all. The bolt isn't rounded off, but it's obviously resisted quite a bit of pressure so far and the hex bit is slipping before the pedal moves.

Should I try again with some of the Chill Zone stuff? Or is there anything else I could try?

I had a very similar issue a while back. I managed to snap 3 hex keys and a hex bit!
Took it to my LBS and the mechanic slipped a silicon glove over the hex bit to help stop it slipping. Still took 2 of them and a very long breaker bar to get it loose.

Will riding my fixie prevent me from becoming a mamil, or is this the kind of questions mamils ask?

if the hex bit is rounding off, sometimes a torx bolt will do the trick instead. you can hammer in in as well
#notamechanic

Drilling a deda rhm01 handlebar, would I die? For internal routing. Just for vanity sake. I would drill a smaller pilot hole and then file it to a 45 degree angle or similar to reduce sharp edges and possible crack points but still.
Underneath the bars or behind for least strain? An inch from the clamp each side

Sure - check out @FatManOnAFixie endeavouring

Nice idea, I tried it full of hope but it just gave out for a little longer and then slipped as well.

@n3il I had to go out and buy the hex bits specially, I don't have a torx bit that big, if they exist at all.

Is there anyone in London who does zip replacements on outdoor gear like LSR? Is it a very specialised thing?

http://www.lancashiresportsrepairs.co.uk/outdoor_clothing_repairs.htm

Any reason why Shimano RS505 shifters would have issues paired with 6800 front & rear mechs?

It make you into a forum approved belm.

Anybody know a source for a blueprint style or technical drawing of a TIE fighter or other Star Wars stuff?
It needs to be vector good enough resolution to print in a3. And ideally have a licence/copyright that will allow me to print and frame it and hang it on my sisters wall.
Cheers

Like this: http://cdn.silodrome.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Star-Wars-All-Terrain-Scout-Transport-Blueprint.gif

Slipping as in it's climbing out of the recess in the pedal?

You could try some plumbers freeze spray on the pedal axle, sometimes that's enough to reduce the force required to overcome the friction between the two parts (by shrinking the axle relative to the crank).

Otherwise what I'd do is to clamp the hex bit into the pedal recess using a vice so there is absolutely no way it can come out, then use something (ring end spanner round the hex bit with extension bar over spanner) to turn the hex bit.

Anybody know a source for a blueprint style or technical drawing of a TIE fighter or other Star Wars stuff?

There are loads of 3D models on Grabcad, if you ore somebody you know has appropriate CAD software it's pretty easy to create drawings from models.

Have you tried turning it in the opposite direction to the one you are doing? It might help budge it or break the deadlock.

Hmm. Could do that, thanks.
I'm not sure I'm imaginative enough to annotate to a convincing level though.

I've not tried freezing but I'm going to try some of the Chill Zone spray which I guess works similarly to plumber's spray.

I've also given up and bought a replacement crank arm.

If I were to clamp it, would that not stop it turning? Also, I think the problem is that it's starting to round off.

I think the problem is that it's been screwed in too tight - I know new Omnium cranks come with pedal washers as well, whereas on these pedals I can see threads on the inside of the crank. At some point during my battles with it I'm sure I've got confused and turned it the wrong way at some point.