Any question answered...

If you use anti-seize and don't spend all day standing in puddles, 10.9 high tensile hexagon sockets should be fine, half the price and you don't need to buy a new tool which you won't be able to find when you come to remove the resistorx ones several years from now :)

Thanks for the tip.
I do have the set of WERA Torx BO L-keys
http://www.wera-tools.co.uk/catalog_uk.html?L=1&file=/en-UK/l-keys_l-keys_for_torx_screws.html
where we used resistorx bolts on some components,
but do not normally take them on all bike rides.

May as well buy a bagful, (200 will cost barely more than 100),
then can offer to anyone else who wishes to be avoid being shafted by their LBS.

My bike has an 11sp shimano drivetrain, but my turbo wheel has a 10sp shimano freehub and cassette.

What is the simplest and cheapest solution to get them to play nicely together?

What is the simplest and cheapest solution to get them to play nicely together?

Simplest full-function method is a Marchisio cassette, with 10 sprockets at 11-speed spacing. Quite expensive though, so it might be cheaper to rebuild the wheel with a 5800 hub and cassette. If your turbo has easy resistance adjustment, the ghetto method is just run it as a two-speed by leaving the chain on the top sprocket and front-shifting for gross adjustment.

Are you sure it's a 10spd freehub and won't take 11spd? I'd probably swap it or get the freehub body machined down to allow 11spd cassettes to fit and buy a cheap 11spd cassette.

Wait, no I wouldn't, I'd use the 11spd in the turbo. Who has time for swapping wheels just to use a turbo? This option is also £free.

Fit 10 of the 11 speed cassette on it instead and set the upper screw limiter a bit.

Isn't the spacing different?

Also, with only 10 sprockets, the lockring won't clamp down so the sprockets will remain loose.

I had this kind of issue before building up a custom 11spd cassette that had only 10 sprockets + extra spacer.

https://thehippy.net/blog/raltech-disc-cover-11-speed-cassette-spacing/

http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/09/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-drivetrain-compatibility-for-10-and-11-speed_301392

If your turbo has easy resistance adjustment, the ghetto method is just run it as a two-speed by leaving the chain on the top sprocket and front-shifting for gross adjustment.

I think this may be the interim solution.

Problem is I have 1 turbo wheel and multiple bikes with different gearing, so sometimes I want 11sp spacingand sometimes 10sp spacing.

Longer term best solution is probably to swap the hub and then either use 10sp with spacer or 11sp.

@hippy 99% sure it's 10sp on the turbo wheel... It's an old ultegra hub and probably predates the invention of 11sp. Cheap turbo wheel is cheaper than ruining expensive tyres on the turbo.

Longer term best solution is probably to swap the hub and then either use 10sp with spacer or 11sp.

Ain't nobody got time for that. Just buy an RS010 and an 11-speed cassette if you want both 10- and 11-speed turbo wheels.

What is the simplest and cheapest solution to get them to play nicely together?

If by nice you just mean 'work kinda' then a Shimano 11 speed MTB casette will go on the ten speed freehub. You'd need to avoid the gears that your mech can't reach or would destroy your drivetrain tho....

Get an 11 speed Shimano cassette, remove one of the middle sprockets 16/17 AND the spacer.

Take the spare spacer and put it onto the freehub before fitting the rest of the cassette (minus the 16t or 17t) and it will work fine, just don't shift into the "missing" gear.

This is what I do on my Lemond Revolution and I don't have to mess about with the indexing at all when swapping between wheels and it.

Clearing up my dad's house I found his old phone. Is it possible to simply swap over the sim cards if I sorted out the correct size (his wasmicro or nano , mine isn't)? Or could his pass code etc still be active? Any ideas how I get round this?

It's winter, you shouldn't be using expensive tyres.

I have a road bike frame with pretty thick drop outs, have been running 10 speed sram no problem, but when trying to upgrade the rear to 11spd, found the derailleur was unable to move far enough inboard to shift to the biggest sprocket. Tried both a 10 speed force mech and an 11 speed rival 22 mech, same story, the drop out is just so thick it puts the derailleur body too far outboard for its geo to accommodate.

Any ideas on some mods I can do to make it work? A MTB under the drop out style derailleur possibly?

That's basically what I did above (https://thehippy.net/blog/raltech-disc-cover-11-speed-cassette-spacing/) to get around the Raltech covers fouling the biggest cog on 11spd.

Shimano

Can you get different hangers for your bike?

Hell, if shimano would work then fine, but would it?

The hang sits flush with the outer edge of the drop out so no option for different hanger geo I don't think.

Sure there's not something else stopping it? No limit screw in the way? I've seen people turn the wrong one and wonder why it wouldn't hit a sprocket.

Without seeing it, I dunno, I've never had this as an issue. Every derailler I've used has had enough range to cover whatever idiotic thing I've done to the bike.

Anyone know of a 27.2 cheap seatpost out there with a usable (mini insertion to saddle clamp) of 34cm?

Gusset Lofty or BBB Longscraper... but both look to be out of stock everywhere.

edit - Nope, here

Yeah nothing else, I backed the limit screws all the way out. I think the drop out has previously been repaired, it looks thicker than the non drive side. But it is what it is, just trying to see if I am forever stuck with 10 speed or if there is a way.

awesome! thanks

where can i buy a single JIS screwdriver for limit screws?