Any question answered...

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  • The HG spline isn't well designed for fixed use.

    Any HG sprocket will fit, the wider the base the better but Halo aren't the only people who make wide-based HG sprockets

    You can get 12T screw-on fixed sprockets, and lock rings which allow them to work. Phil Wood sprockets, Phil lock ring for Campag or Andel/Soma for 1.29"

  • Is there anywhere in the UK where I could get a Nitto UI-2 quill stem?

    Or another 90s-looking quill stem with an open face?

  • Velosolo have a slightly cheaper knock-off
    http://www.velosolo.co.uk/zenstem.html

  • Thanks, both of them are basically exactly what I specified, but they're ugly as sin.

    The Nitto UI-2 is comparatively much nicer, there's a Salsa one that I've seen which also isn't too offensive, and I have just discovered the Cinelli Frog, which is repellent on first glance:

    But doesn't look too bad when fitted:

    They all seem impossible to get hold of for a reasonable price*. But it's that sort of chunky, ITM/Zoom/Salsa 90s aesthetic that I'm after.

  • Try searching for Kalloy AL-231 or AL-600 or AL-6006 if you want chunky, or Profile H2O is widely available in loads of sizes and angles without the silly prices that Italian retro kit seems to attract

  • How easy would it be to convert a rear SRAM Force brake to a front one?

  • just use a long brake nut?

  • I did wonder about that, but I'm not sure how safe that is?

  • adroit will know, he's a mechanical genius. Anyone who can fix STI shifters can safely sort a brake bolt.

    Do you have a rear Force brake spatr? I have one if not!

  • In the older silver colour? Not the new dark grey? Theres a glut of the old version on ebay, all for <£20 but only rears for some reason

  • I have a newer one in dark grey I'm afraid, rear only.

  • I did wonder about that, but I'm not sure how safe that is?

    It's safe, but there might not be space in the fork for the large diameter of the nut to reach all the way forward to the bolt. If it fits with at least 6 full turns of thread engagement, it's OK. The nut is actually stronger than the bolt, but the brake load is reacted through both whatever their respective lengths.

    It's possible to swap the brake centre bolt③ for a longer one, although if it's locked in with a grub screw② the operation can fail resulting in death (of the caliper, not the cyclist). I can't find a picture of the underside of the SRAM Force body, but the general layout will be the same as other dual-pivots. The grub screw can be over-tightened at the factory, deforming the M7 thread on the centre bolt, which then gouges the soft aluminium female thread in the brake caliper body when you undo the centre bolt for removal.


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  • Its a steel fork, so i'm very doubtful there will be 6 turns on it

  • Been offered a 2010 allez in great condition for just over £200, standard cheap Shimano groupset etc. all original warning stickers still on frame

    Got to be a bargain right?

  • Also, the DA7800 brakes on my bike at the moment suck, that's with decent pads on.

    Got a chance of a cheap pair of 6700 Ultegra brakes which have the updated bits and bobs to increase the stopping power. Has anyone used both and can give me a comparison

  • Braking performance can be affected by housing - redo it with a dremel and be careful with the bend to ensure lack of friction while operating the levers.

  • Its a steel fork, so i'm very doubtful there will be 6 turns on it

    With a steel fork and a 27 mm bolt you might even have to cut down the nut, or use a shorter one. They were introduced to deal with the really deep carbon forks, I am sure your steel fork won't be that deep.

  • Its a steel fork

    This is to your advantage, as the crown is likely to have loads of space for the nut. If you're to avoid changing the centre bolt, the front of the nut is going to have to get within about 6mm of the front of the fork crown.

  • Also, the DA7800 brakes on my bike at the moment suck, that's with decent pads on.

    Got a chance of a cheap pair of 6700 Ultegra brakes which have the updated bits and bobs to increase the stopping power. Has anyone used both and can give me a comparison

    My DA7800 are awesome. Stock pads, variety of rims. Also use the Ultegra on winter bike but with Shimano large callipers. Nowhere near as good but to be expected from cheap ass calipers with crashed shifyers

  • Thanks for the replys.

    Another question...

    Any good road bike crankset that can be had for around £140 new or second hand?

    Preferably carbon or dark coloured. For use with Shimano.

  • With a steel fork and a 27 mm bolt you might even have to cut down the nut, or use a shorter one. They were introduced to deal with the really deep carbon forks, I am sure your steel fork won't be that deep.

    I was thinking of the length of the brakes bolt rather than the nut . I.E. Whether it'd be long enough to clear the front of the Crown with 6 whole turns.

    This is to your advantage, as the crown is likely to have loads of space for the nut. If you're to avoid changing the centre bolt, the front of the nut is going to have to get within about 6mm of the front of the fork crown.

    Perhaps I can borrow someone else's sram brake and see how well it'll fit

  • Morning all - does anyone know if the NCP on Shoe Lane (Little New Street) has secure bike parking?

  • Any good road bike crankset that can be had for around £140 new or second hand?

    Preferably carbon or dark coloured. For use with Shimano.

    Shimano FC-5700 in black, rather annoyingly down to £93 after I paid £101 a couple of weeks ago

  • You won't be pleased to hear about this then

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Any question answered...

Posted by Avatar for carson @carson

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