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• #55002
Is there anywhere in the UK where I could get a Nitto UI-2 quill stem?
Or another 90s-looking quill stem with an open face?
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• #55004
Velosolo have a slightly cheaper knock-off
http://www.velosolo.co.uk/zenstem.html -
• #55005
Thanks, both of them are basically exactly what I specified, but they're ugly as sin.
The Nitto UI-2 is comparatively much nicer, there's a Salsa one that I've seen which also isn't too offensive, and I have just discovered the Cinelli Frog, which is repellent on first glance:
But doesn't look too bad when fitted:
They all seem impossible to get hold of for a reasonable price*. But it's that sort of chunky, ITM/Zoom/Salsa 90s aesthetic that I'm after.
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• #55006
Try searching for Kalloy AL-231 or AL-600 or AL-6006 if you want chunky, or Profile H2O is widely available in loads of sizes and angles without the silly prices that Italian retro kit seems to attract
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• #55007
How easy would it be to convert a rear SRAM Force brake to a front one?
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• #55008
just use a long brake nut?
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• #55009
I did wonder about that, but I'm not sure how safe that is?
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• #55010
adroit will know, he's a mechanical genius. Anyone who can fix STI shifters can safely sort a brake bolt.
Do you have a rear Force brake spatr? I have one if not!
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• #55011
In the older silver colour? Not the new dark grey? Theres a glut of the old version on ebay, all for <£20 but only rears for some reason
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• #55012
I have a newer one in dark grey I'm afraid, rear only.
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• #55013
I did wonder about that, but I'm not sure how safe that is?
It's safe, but there might not be space in the fork for the large diameter of the nut to reach all the way forward to the bolt. If it fits with at least 6 full turns of thread engagement, it's OK. The nut is actually stronger than the bolt, but the brake load is reacted through both whatever their respective lengths.
It's possible to swap the brake centre bolt③ for a longer one, although if it's locked in with a grub screw② the operation can fail resulting in death (of the caliper, not the cyclist). I can't find a picture of the underside of the SRAM Force body, but the general layout will be the same as other dual-pivots. The grub screw can be over-tightened at the factory, deforming the M7 thread on the centre bolt, which then gouges the soft aluminium female thread in the brake caliper body when you undo the centre bolt for removal.
1 Attachment
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• #55014
Its a steel fork, so i'm very doubtful there will be 6 turns on it
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• #55015
Been offered a 2010 allez in great condition for just over £200, standard cheap Shimano groupset etc. all original warning stickers still on frame
Got to be a bargain right?
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• #55016
Also, the DA7800 brakes on my bike at the moment suck, that's with decent pads on.
Got a chance of a cheap pair of 6700 Ultegra brakes which have the updated bits and bobs to increase the stopping power. Has anyone used both and can give me a comparison
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• #55017
Braking performance can be affected by housing - redo it with a dremel and be careful with the bend to ensure lack of friction while operating the levers.
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• #55018
Its a steel fork, so i'm very doubtful there will be 6 turns on it
With a steel fork and a 27 mm bolt you might even have to cut down the nut, or use a shorter one. They were introduced to deal with the really deep carbon forks, I am sure your steel fork won't be that deep.
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• #55019
Its a steel fork
This is to your advantage, as the crown is likely to have loads of space for the nut. If you're to avoid changing the centre bolt, the front of the nut is going to have to get within about 6mm of the front of the fork crown.
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• #55020
Also, the DA7800 brakes on my bike at the moment suck, that's with decent pads on.
Got a chance of a cheap pair of 6700 Ultegra brakes which have the updated bits and bobs to increase the stopping power. Has anyone used both and can give me a comparison
My DA7800 are awesome. Stock pads, variety of rims. Also use the Ultegra on winter bike but with Shimano large callipers. Nowhere near as good but to be expected from cheap ass calipers with crashed shifyers
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• #55021
Thanks for the replys.
Another question...
Any good road bike crankset that can be had for around £140 new or second hand?
Preferably carbon or dark coloured. For use with Shimano.
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• #55022
With a steel fork and a 27 mm bolt you might even have to cut down the nut, or use a shorter one. They were introduced to deal with the really deep carbon forks, I am sure your steel fork won't be that deep.
I was thinking of the length of the brakes bolt rather than the nut . I.E. Whether it'd be long enough to clear the front of the Crown with 6 whole turns.
This is to your advantage, as the crown is likely to have loads of space for the nut. If you're to avoid changing the centre bolt, the front of the nut is going to have to get within about 6mm of the front of the fork crown.
Perhaps I can borrow someone else's sram brake and see how well it'll fit
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• #55023
Morning all - does anyone know if the NCP on Shoe Lane (Little New Street) has secure bike parking?
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• #55024
Any good road bike crankset that can be had for around £140 new or second hand?
Preferably carbon or dark coloured. For use with Shimano.
Shimano FC-5700 in black, rather annoyingly down to £93 after I paid £101 a couple of weeks ago
The HG spline isn't well designed for fixed use.
Any HG sprocket will fit, the wider the base the better but Halo aren't the only people who make wide-based HG sprockets
You can get 12T screw-on fixed sprockets, and lock rings which allow them to work. Phil Wood sprockets, Phil lock ring for Campag or Andel/Soma for 1.29"