Any question answered...

Cant hyperlink link to a search chris...

I tried to search for the .jpgs within the thread. With only partial success.

HTFU or...

You can use a 130/74 adaptor ring to convert what you have into a triple, but you'll need a new (longer) BB, new (triple) front dérailleur, and new (long cage) rear dérailleur.

Lol, I know! Though I find it funnier when seasoned pro's (in their mind) all comment on how steep my gearing is (for round here).
Are there any 70s 80s shimano compact doubles in existance?

Not in the style you want*, original Deore/XT MTB cranks were 110/74 IIRC, so you could use one as a compact double, and there were plenty of other options at the time from TA and Stronglight, plus SR/Sakae clones of the French kit, for people wanting smaller rings than the standard road racing set up of 52/42

*There might have been a 110mm PCD crank to go with the Tourney kit, but I can't remember for sure and they'd be like hen's teeth compared with the common Stronglight and SR options, and Tourney is low end stuff anyway.

Why not buy a 38T chainring? You might also need a smaller outer ring for this to work.

He already tried a 39 and it still wasn't low enough

Er....I'm interested in reducing the cable drag on my rear cable disc. It has fully enclosed cables at the mo from lever to caliper, and my thoughts are that if there was less cable outer, it would be a bit sharper. So can i get clamp on cable guides for this? I'm contemplating getting some brazed on, but i want to try it first before i do that. Any ideas?

A tyre question...

I'm currently running Schwalbe Ultremo tyres and I am very happy with their performance except for the fact that they have the puncture resistance of a balloon. Also, if you do more than one skid a day they start to fall apart very quickly. I initially got them for my track-only bike, which is now my daily run around, too, hence the need to change.

After looking at some of GA2G's threads and my own (happy) experience with Continentals I was thinking about some foldable Gatorskins as a replacement...

Basically, I'm after a high performance road tyre with good puncture resistance; any suggestions?

People hate gatorskins. I'm quite happy with them.

I swear by these. Run 2 pairs, only had a single puncture in a very long time on either.

I always run Gatorskin front and Soma Everwear rear on my daily fixed bike. The Everwears are expensive but last me 4 months instead of the usual 4 weeks.

I'm putting together a very low cost Pre Cursa build to replace my stolen track bike.

Is there any reason why I should not use my spare expander bung in the alu steerer?

Cheers

Is there any reason why I should not use my spare expander bung in the alu steerer?

It's actually preferable, I don't think you should use a star-fangled nut in aluminium, since it carves some lovely stress raisers into a material with a finite fatigue life.

I swear by these. Run 2 pairs, only had a single puncture in a very long time on either.

One inside the other? No wonder you don't get many punctures!

Er....I'm interested in reducing the cable drag on my rear cable disc. It has fully enclosed cables at the mo from lever to caliper, and my thoughts are that if there was less cable outer, it would be a bit sharper. So can i get clamp on cable guides for this? I'm contemplating getting some brazed on, but i want to try it first before i do that. Any ideas?

Don't use clamp on cable stops for brakes, one little slip under load and you suddenly have no brakes. Make sure you are using high quality lined cables, and keep the curve radii large and you shouldn't notice the full enclosure.

It's actually preferable, I don't think you should use a star-fangled nut in aluminium, since it carves some lovely stress raisers into a material with a finite fatigue life.

Thank you kindly.

why are there no maps on googlemaps but the satellite and streetview still works?

Temporary routing problem between your machine and the server holding the maps, which is not the same server as the one holding the sat pix or street view imagery.

oh. i hope they fix it soon.

Cheers all for the crank advice.

After todays escapades I'm fancying just getting ANY square taper compact, bugger what it looks like, so fed up of 43:23 or what ever it is (anything less than 10mph = knee explosion in progress).
In time might whip up something myself on the CNC to make a 30t ring that bolts into a 130BCD. it'll bugger the spacing between the rings but with friction shifters doubt it really matters much?

Don't use clamp on cable stops for brakes, one little slip under load and you suddenly have no brakes. Make sure you are using high quality lined cables, and keep the curve radii large and you shouldn't notice the full enclosure.

I thought i might be able to get some that would clamp to the the head tube and the seat tube and not then be able to move, but i can't find anything on the sjs website so it seems unlikely anywhere else will do them! Cheers for the info.

Turning right at a roundabout, car coming from the opposite side decides to straightline the rounabout without looking, t-bones me at 25mph just as I'm about to exit roundabout. Bike at police station to be collected and inspected later.

The front corner of the car hit the front half of the bike (throwing me over the bonnet to smash the windscreen with my head, nice!). It hit hard enough to put a 45 degree bend in some alloy drops. Only other damage (from what I could tell when in shock, dazed & confused by the roadside immediately following the accident) seems to be from the bike bouncing/sliding down the road and some destroyed kit.

Question is regarding the fork. Even if it looks perfectly fine, would it be wise to trust a full carbon fork with carbon steerer that's taken an impact in one of the blades and one that hit the bars enough to banana them? Surely that impact to the bars is going to have sent some serious forces through the steerer? Stem is slammed, so not so much moment/leverage about the top of the headset I suppose, but still.

Is it something I should be asking to be replaced regardless of how it appears visually?

Get a new one. The drivers insurance should pay. Its not worth taking the risk.

sanddancer

try the solicitors we like thread

Much obliged. Going through it now.