Any question answered...

Our freezer drawer is broken so you can't really pull the handle. I was thinking of bracing it, but I'm not sure the best way to do it. What do you all reckon?

Break the ruler in 2 and vertically? Outside and loop duct tape around the circumference a few times? Cut it that it fits inside and taped in place?

I've a few pictures to explain.

4 Attachments

How about Cyanoacrylate glue?
Has worked on plastic stuff in our fridge a couple of times.

Ours did that and then the whole front snapped off. Now we just use that drawer as a shelf rather than pulling it out and we take stuff out through the hole in the front.
CSB

use two part epoxy, fills gaps. Roughen both surfaces before application.
Surprisingly £1 in poundland.

Assume this is a typo? Or just garbage?

What's the diameter of that 0.6mm pitch tap? If it's 3.5mm, all is well with the world 🙂*

*except that as a cyclist, I'd want 10×1.0 and 8×0.75 as my fine pitch options.

Run Dichloromethane down the crack - otherwise known as liquid styrene - available from model shops. Better than superglue (in this instance).
If you're anywhere near SE23, I've half a litre of the stuff kicking around.

Dichloromethane down the crack - otherwise known as liquid styrene

Not known as that by chemists 🧪🙂, but on the right track as long as the part is polystyrene or ABS.
If it's relatively modern, it should probably be marked in-mould with the plastic type, e.g.

Don't know why I didn't think of that tbh. Do you think it'd be enough by itself or as well as the ruler brace?

@PhilDAS that's not a bad idea actually, I'll keep that as our last resort.

@freezing77 Same question, would that be enough by itself?

@JurekB Very good of you, but I'm in Dublin. Thanks though!

Well, colour me confused, in the kit there is both an M3 x 0.5 and an M3 x 0.6

in the kit there is both an M3 x 0.5 and an M3 x 0.6

That's proper weird. M3.5×0.6 would be useful around the house as it's the face plate mounting screw size for electrical fittings. M3.0×0.6 seems to be a mounting thread for ultrasonic dental tools 🤷🏻‍♂️

enough by itself or as well as the ruler brace?

Get a couple more rulers, break them all and brace with the pieces from both sides, then duct tape all the things.

Drill holes and then cable tie the crack together?

Can’t tell from here :)
Could also find replacement from manufacturer or something close from Ikea?

Not keen on a replacement because it's quite a poor design and would likely just happen again. They're surprisingly expensive too.

@midlife it's quite a brittle plastic, I don't know how well that might work but not a bad idea, thanks

Patch using the rule or similar, glue using epoxy. Did this on my own freezer drawer some years ago. Still going strong.

M3.0×0.6 seems to be a mounting thread for ultrasonic dental tools

Perfect!

Out of interest if I try to machine thread tap a plastic that has previously had a coarse self tapping screw in it will I or the material die?

We have a Kano kids computer thing (based on a raspberry pi), that needs the OS reinstalling onto the micro SD card using some downloadable tool called balenaEtcher, which when running is asking to select an image file.

There are three - natives_blob.bin, snapshot_blob.bin, v8_context_snapshot.bin - but no indication as to which one is correct.

All three when selected then say

"Missing Partition table: It looks like this is not a bootable image. The image does not appear to contain a partition table, and might not be recognized or bootable by your device"

Send help please

https://help.kano.me/hc/en-us/articles/360001063620-Kano-OS-Re-installing-Our-Software

Does that help?

actually it does. i've been on that page all day, but you have prompted me to actually read the instructions properly.....

thanks :)

if I try to machine thread tap a plastic that has previously had a coarse self tapping screw in it will I or the material die?

Depends what life-supporting loads you apply to the threads after tapping. If the tap drill size for the machine screw thread is smaller than the OD of the self tapper, you'll end up with bits missing from the threads, so they will be weaker than a hole tapped in virgin stock. Whether that's a material issue depends on the design.

Cool ok. It’s basically plastic parts used by the cars that you might find in the Tamiya thread.

But I’d be pissed if I wrecked all the plastics on a car in an attempt to make it easier to maintain and more robust.

It’s basically plastic parts used by the cars that you might find in the Tamiya thread

If there is sufficient material in the threaded bosses, and your use case is frequent assembly/disassembly, I'd look at brass inserts, e.g. http://www.theinsertcompany.com/brass_threaded_inserts.php

Please does anyone know what fluorescent tube I need to replace this Osram 54w/535 f838? Staff in shop don’t know either! All completely different numbering.

You need to know the length of the tube and the diameter of it. Making the assumption it's for a general hallway/bathroom/kitchen/office it's likely to be a 6ft T8 or T12.

T8 tubes are 1" diameter and T12 are 1.5"

can anyone suggest how i can mount a rack to the back of a CX bike with no brake bridge?

thinking of using the seat clamp but nothing on SJS looks suitable.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/seat-posts/318-mm-mwave-seat-clamp-with-rack-mount/
take it back just fonud this :)