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• #84777
Buy a better bag?
But what about the knobbly tyressss??
possibly.
historically randonneur forks designed to carry a load would have longer rake/less trail.And less trail = slower/less twitchy handling, amirite?
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• #84778
No, track bike are slower/less twitchy (less fork rake + more trail).
more rake/less trail = faster steering.
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• #84779
building up a pomp, or something similar for what you need would not be a bad idea at all, or even a conversion with more clearance
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• #84780
As your LBS if they can order it in for you.
Incidentally colleague were looking for a low flange low spokes hubs with a reasonable weight, the Novatec were the closet for the money.
Stick some A319, if build well, can stand up to quite a lots of abuse.
i dont really have a lbs in manchester atm, theyre all chains, and I somewhat doubt a6 cycles can get them in..
hmm
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• #84781
No, track bike are slower/less twitchy (less fork rake + more trail).
more rake/less trail = faster steering.
Gotcha
building up a pomp, or something similar for what you need would not be a bad idea at all, or even a conversion with more clearance
You're both right (ed did suggest this too). I'm thinking maybe I should just wait till I can afford a Pomp F+F and then transfer as much as possible over from the current build.
Literally JUST bought a road bike, so feel a bit daft buying another bike when the track bike can get me to work and back. In short I should HTFU really!
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• #84782
I have another suggestion.
Carry less stuff.
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• #84783
Haha! It's not even a long/tough ride either
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• #84784
What bag do you have? you will probably be fine with a better bag or a Wald basket for the summer.
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• #84785
i dont really have a lbs in manchester atm, theyre all chains, and I somewhat doubt a6 cycles can get them in..
hmm
Harry Halls will probably be able to sort you out, and Keep Pedalling, they're both independently owned too.
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• #84786
Rebuilding a 1994 Colnago frame for a friend. Removed everything except for the bottom bracket (which I hope can remain in situ) and the rear brake cable housing which is internally routed through the top tube. I've never worked with internal cable routing and am a little nervous about removing the existing cable if it is going to be a complete ballache to replace. Am I worrying about nothing, or is it the devil's own job to fit a new cable housing?
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• #84787
Dude, just tape the end of the housing with a string, pull it out and tape both end of the string on the top tube.
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• #84788
Thanks Ed - being fretting about this for a while. Nice simple solution you have there!
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• #84789
If it's still in place (and assuming it's just two holes, rather than a brazed tube), just thread an inner cable through and then remove the outer (leaving the inner in place obvs); then use the inner as a guide to replace the outer.
If there is a tube, then you have no problem.
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• #84790
It can be a PITA but always doable, as mentioned just keep some of the cable in the frame, tape it in place if your not working on it for a while.
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• #84791
Thanks scilly
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• #84792
needle nose pliers are your friend
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• #84793
I used tweezers before to help guide it through
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• #84794
Anyone know where I can get extra Italian threads cut into my forks? Need them extended about an inch...
If you're in London and the steerer isn't chromed speak to Retro di Corsa
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• #84795
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• #84796
Stuck some winter wheels on the fast bike
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• #84797
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• #84798
apollo I love the CXP 30 558g
What's taken you so long? Sort your top tube/seat posts out, and you'd get even more loved up.
no my seatpost on the bike I ride is always on
the good position >http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_MKOMP61hUx0/SUH-JNwo93I/AAAAAAAAABs/OLHyLN1BxVE/s1600/L1040586.JPG (not my collection)
Since I'm here I see the saddle more forward and less slr... -
• #84799
What seatpost size does aelle tubing usually have? 26.8?
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• #84800
You get those wheels yet?
Have a chat with a framebuilder (or someone who knows more han me;)
The only difference is 5° on the thread angle (marshallplan lathes, whitworth 55° setting), the rest is as per iso, so it may be possible to use a normal iso die.(60°) Otherwise a machine shop is probaly the best option