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@SideshowBob @Errol you're welcome, first time I've been pushed to use the wayback. Pretty amazing, prompted me to make a (small) donation https://archive.org/donate/
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Less turbulence with the TA chainring as well I'd wager :)
The obligatory 'build for my wife' is a 1970s French frame and I've been looking for at least a year for a French thread Stronglight 650 bb (titanium axle and probably foolish alloy cups). Finally got a cup, tried it and found the bb thread is English >.< A few French thread examples on Ebay now, no English >.<
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Bought this saddle ages ago and interested in working out the age, I cannot find anything online around the make.
The rear saddle loops suggest to me that it is late 30s or early 40s.The saddle stamp says -
Sel ## (rest is too worn)
N John's C
10
Made in FranceAny idea's or suggestions gratefully received -
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Afraid not, the B47 had an aluminium cantle, was very narrow for racing and the B47 in question is in extremely good condition.
Your B17 is nice and with the desirable round stamp on the side, it's certainly worth looking after but I very much doubt it would command that sort of price. Although saying that, never say never.
This is what you need.
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https://www.lfgss.com/events/5080/?offset=225#comment15653398
And to think I used this bike including the saddle on last year's Hard day's ride in January. I won't be doing that again -
Couple of nice Carpenter frames -
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224239405142https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224239421813
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A new old stock oval logo B17 with original sales tag sold for £295 on ebay earlier this year.
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The B47 is a rare version of the rare B17 ‘Sprinter’ - the narrowest
/lightest B17. The oval badge is pre ~1955. The B47 was only produced for a few years around 1950 and is lighter with some Aluminium bits rather than steel. Those alloy bits were more prone to failure -> increasing rarity. That one on Ebay is in pretty amazing condition, unlikely to see another one like it. If I was an eccentric millionaire I’d buy it - probably why I’m not any kind of millionaire! -
Just over £500 with 10 minutes to go 😕
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I really like the 30s frame as well,However looking at other 30s Clubman models - This one is different in that it has a fillet brazed Head tube.
Maybe this was a special order? -
Sold for 503 pounds. Was a lovely saddle to be fair.
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Ooh yeah wonderful condition - I'd love to see what frame it's destined for.
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could be. It's certainly not a combination of lugs/ fillet brazing you often see.
I suggest this Carpenter has been repaired with a new top, head and down tube - probably during or shortly after the war when lugs were in short supply. Note that the headset frame races are not set into the frame in the prewar style, but are external and chromed.
Even if I'm right about this, it's not a reason for rejecting the frame - it looks as though it's had a lot of use since the repair was done, so presumably it should work ok.
As to 'special order', I would guess that all Carpenter frames were made to order.
I wonder if the handlebar stem is seized in the steering tube. The vendor has thoughtfully stripped everything else - is he just being generous about the stem?
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Holdsworth Cyclone with a number of nice parts, Collection in Bolton - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143854567131
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Guess that's a 1949 Hobbs Blue Riband in original paint
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264949381952
I liked it enough to check the size - 23" CTT if anyone is interested!
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About
Pre 1950s rides of LFGSS: old bikes, vintage rats, classic lightweights
Posted by
@luckyskull
Thanks for sharing this, enjoyed reading through the retrobike thread. Many of the highs and lows of effing about with vintage bikes! Seems pretty standard to get your plans straight only to find something like the bottom bracket is incompatible with anything you want to do :)
(Post 2897)
The chainset did cause some problems. I had intended to use the Chater Lea set that I had on this frame in the '90's (see pic with rather grumpy looking young son on board). When I came to refit it I found that it was a poor fit on the spindle (too loose) and came so close to the chainstay I would have needed to get it almost perfectly true to prevent it from fouling on the stay. I really can't understand what's going on here, since I don't remember having this problem when I used it before. Copied from my 'Last Build' thread in Current Projects.
We all suffer from these problems. I still don't understand what happened here - I suppose it's possible that the Chater set has somehow been damaged in storage - although I can't see how this happened. Also I wonder if there could be a slight difference in the size of the spindle (not what you'd expect with CL kit). Perhaps I just tolerated the slackness - I was using a Sturmey hub so the ovality problem was less critical than it would have been with fixed.
While I'm om the subject, compare the two cranks on the scales - when you take into account another couple of ounces for the left hand Chater crank the difference makes the BSA/TA set about half a pound lighter. I know we're not too concerned with weight in this thread, but all the same, my bikes are for riding, and quite often with others on more modern machines, so I don't want to give too much away!
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