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• #4052
They changed the design/system in-between?
It's a different derailleur.
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• #4053
on our tandem i cobbled together an unramped 42/24t chainset on a triple mtb crank with the outer in the place of the middle. to change gears i have a lovely old friction thumbie and a double XT fr mech. i think i chose this because that’s what i had at the time. the rear is 8spd and works perfectly. i’m having issues, perhaps unsurprisingly, w the front shifts, i think there’s an acera triple fr mech in the spares box, i need a middle ring, ideally a whole set of chainrings, unless anyone has any ideas?
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• #4054
Okok I'll stop second guessing the experts.
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• #4055
This turned out to be a pretty helpful post… thank you.
I went out to re-check the cassette and it has 11sp printed all over it. I count the sprockets and find there are only 10, causing me to scratch my head until I find the missing sprocket hiding another bike. 🤷♂️
Mystery averted, no need for new shifters… just some cables and I’m done.
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• #4056
I don’t know if this is the right place or if the main AQA thread is better, but does anyone know where I can get brown/silver TRP hylex levers (/levers and calipers) in the UK? I don’t know if it is my googling or if they’re just no longer really sold…?
🙏
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• #4057
Hiya
Am a little bit out of my (shallow) depth trying to fit an old Athena 11 speed groupset bought off ebay.
For the rear derailleur, I've taken apart and cleaned the jockey wheels (no ball race - just solid bushings) and used Fenwicks assembly grease reassembling them, but they still don't spin very freely.... wrong grease??
Also, what do I need to attach it to the mech hanger? is it some weird star T driver thing? What's wrong with allen keys??!
Very lastly, I'm guessing that a Campag cassette lockring is going to need a different tool to a Shimano one right? Otherwise that would be too easy!
Thanks in advance for any assistance
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• #4058
but they still don't spin very freely
Just clean them.
some weird star T driver thing?
T25 Torx .
I'm guessing that a Campag cassette lockring is going to need a different tool to a Shimano one right?
Yes.
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• #4059
Remember to use thread lock when you reinstall the jockey wheels, otherwise they will unscrew, your chain will have a strop and trash the derailleur(s). I've learned this lesson the hard way.
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• #4060
As @snottyotter says
Vice, clamp hell out of, heat moderately, apply good penetrating oil (Kroil is my best friend in a workshop), tap with deadblow hammer or punch back of threads. Repeat, over a week if necessary.
Have found the usual, heat, kroil, whack and repeat over a long period of time but without going crazy on the force yields best results.WD40 etc is a waste of space, almost a useless product IMO.
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• #4061
Wd40 branded penetrating oil is pretty good.
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• #4062
Ah that's where it gets tricky, a smart move on their part to name their trading name as their main product
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• #4063
I have a wald 215 rear rack on my bike. I'd like to attach a basket to the top of it.
What fixings would I need to attach something like a wald 137 basket to it ? Would it be a stupid idea having extra weight up that high ?
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• #4064
What frame do you have? I’ve done that at the shop, works out fine but does make the bike more liable to topple over, especially if the basket becomes unsecured.
We used P clips, if memory serves.
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• #4065
Pinnacle arkose . I've had a carrdice bag attached to the seat post previously, didn't make it too unstable , though there was obviously a difference
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• #4066
After a nuts and bolts selection box for general hobbyist usage. What's good and where to get it?
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• #4067
Bike usage?
I feel like this was asked not long ago and someone suggested the SJS workshop sweepings thinghttps://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/workshop-sweepings-approx-12-lb-250-g-bag/
Probably not much variety in it I'd guess
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• #4068
Anyone had any joy replacing the cage on a Sram red 22 rear mech? The spring inside the body failed on mine.
Found a cheap one on eBay that was missing the cage.
Figured I could take the cage off my old one and install on the replacement.
Have googled & YouTube’d but can’t find out if it’s possible. Fearing it might not be…
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• #4069
Yeah it’s easy. There’s a bolt on the side holding it all together.
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• #4070
That's part of the cage and that fixing bolt is non removable i believe.you have to unsrew small screw underneath the deraileur and replace the whole thing
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• #4071
@Leshaches @moño cheers. I’d assumed that bolt was too far from what I wanted to achieve to be a player here. Cage now swapped - bike lives to see another day.
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• #4072
Think I need to get my bottom bracket threads chased as the NDS cup won't go in (been trying for 10 minutes, including five minutes of swearing). How much would an LBS charge for this, ballpark? Just wondering whether it'd be cheaper to buy (yet) another bottom bracket that is threadless instead.
I'm assuming I can't/shouldn't attempt to do this myself, of course.
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• #4073
I've not got loads of experience with threadless BBs but my housemate uses one that I mounted into his Dolan with loctite and it hasn't come off yet, it's been maybe 9 months.
Are the BB shell threads clean? A metal-bristled brush can help you dig out old greasy dirt. An angled pick is also handy. It can make the difference.
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• #4074
Are the BB shell threads clean? A metal-bristled brush can help you dig out old greasy dirt. An angled pick is also handy. It can make the difference.
They are a little grubby, but not filthy. The issue is the thread doesn't take, so the cup just keeps turning and turning without going in.
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• #4075
They're for sure compatible?
What they said.
Still weird no? My apex derailleur (too short) doesn't do that.
They changed the design/system in-between?
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