Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Sure you’re turning it the right way? And you don’t have an Italian bb and English frame or vide Versa

Yep, drive side goes in no problem.

Yes, sure on both counts.

Moved to better thread — please ignore!

It should be less than the cost of a threadless BB, which is always going to be a bit of a bodge. Especially if the BB is already removed. It's a 10 minute job. I'd do it for you, except I suspect you're not based in East Cambridgeshire.

Cool. Didn't think it would be a big job. And ta for the offer, but you suspect right. I'm in east East Dulwich.

Well, if fate happens to bring you close to the Isle of Ely, the offer stands!

You sure you've got the right BB and thread match?

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Pea roast! ;)

As w_p says, yes. Drive side goes in no problem. Gonna mooch along to my LBS and ask them how much they'd charge to chase one side of a BB shell.

They'd do both really based on how the tool works, it's a pretty quick and easy job if everything is stripped down and good to go, but you're also paying for access to knowledge of how to not fuck it up and use of a pretty expensive tool. But if you're nice, they're not super busy and you bribe them it shouldn't be too much.

but you're also paying for access to knowledge of how to not fuck it up

They could charge me way more than they will for this. Way more.

Front caliper brake: with the recessed nut, I can only get 5mm of engagement with the caliper bolt (6mm maybe if I swap the supplied chunky brake bolt washer for a thin regular washer*) - that doesn't sound enough? I tried putting a longer recessed nut in there but it bottoms out on a 2nd "step" inside the hole (see photo, i wasn't expecting 3 different diameters but this is my first time installing an all carbon fork - is it normal? That middle section allows max 19mm of threaded nut so seems weird design...)

Thanks, any workaround suggestions welcome or will it mean getting a longer brake caliper bolt? Was hoping to get this finished in time for the sunny Sunday.

*Is that ok? Can't see why thin stainless everyday washer wouldn't do the same job of the 2mm thick one.

Have a question about indexing - have never fettled MTB style shifters and derailleurs before, figured they work quite the same as road ones, but have just bought a secondhand tandem and can't seem to get the Deore M590 (I think) 9 speed rear shifter to work with the SLX derailleur. I have two issues:

1. Downshifting (i.e. into smaller gears) seems to be sticky - I have to downshift twice for the derailleur to move once (e.g. from 4 to 3 (it jumps to 2) or from 3-2 (it jumps to 1)), although upshifting (into larger gears) seems to be fine.
   
2. General indexing seems to be an issue even when upshifting
   
   

There doesn't seem to be a lot I can adjust - the only cable tension adjustment I can find is on the shifter itself; is this normal? I suspect it might be a cable and housing issue but I can definitely feel the shifter pulling on the cable as far as the rear bottom tube where the cable runs bare, and there are no visible signs of rust etc. (including on the RD, which looks pretty clean) because I understand the bike mostly lived indoors prior to coming into my possession. Would like to make sure I'm not missing anything before replacing the cables and housing (anyone know if tandems need special-length cables and housing..?)

SLX derailleur

Which one?

not weird to only have barrel adjust at lever on mtb . Tandems definitely need a long cable although i think a relatively cheap and common clark’s one come in a length long enough for a tandem. what have you got???!

Shimano does a specific tandem cable. Can't remember the product code though.

Sounds like you have a dynasys 10 speed SLX mech and a mega 9 deore rear mech, they won't work together. You can get a 9s SLX mech but they never made many of them, pretty rare. Any MTB 9s rear mech will work with that shifter (and others too).

If they are compatible then.... Check cables actually work, no kinks, no rust, no prolapsed outer or splits. Mech hanger alignment. Mech function, make sure someone has wound the b axle adjuster all the way in (folk love doing that, chain tensioner innit). Cable being held in right place in rear mech clamp, fairly common folk make up their own unique cable routing for this which causes some fun issues.

Thin washer should be fine.

If you get 4+ rotations of thread engagement on the brake bolt then you'll be reet.

As a quick edit, I realised that the sticky shifting runs both ways - often need to shift twice in the direction I'm going then back one to get it to move chainrings. Interestingly it always seems that the first click doesn't move the hanger at all, then the second click does.

I checked with the seller of the bike and he says the bike parts are 'as new' (he did not seem the sort to be doing any fettling whatsoever), suggesting that it came like that from the shop (not sure which!) - seems unlikely a factory spec would pair a 10 speed mech with a 9 speed shifter?

How can I tell what sort of SLX mech I have - never dealt with these before. Not sure which deore shifter I have either but it seemed like the m590 from googling pictures.

Cables seem fine (at least the exposed bits I can see) and the mech does shift up and down the range, just not with much precision.

Cable routing - no idea how it's meant to go through the mech, seemed pretty direct out the hose and into the clamp where there's a groove for it (I've come across funny front mech routing on road bikes but didn't think to check there'd be an issue here).

Re. mech hanger alignment - issue seems pretty prominent around the smaller gears (rather than the larger ones where the hanger alignment would be an issue), which is why I didn't think to check the b-screw alignment too closely.

Thanks for the really detailed diagnosis - will go give those another run-down and report back, and also provide some photos..

Re. mech hanger alignment - issue seems pretty prominent around the smaller gears (rather than the larger ones where the hanger alignment would be an issue), which is why I didn't think to check the b-screw alignment too closely.

Ime, indexing issues at one end of the cassette but not (or less) at the other pretty much always means hanger alignment is out. Which end works/doesn’t is irrelevant.

As for knowing what mech you have, the model number should be embossed on it somehow, probably the bottom/back of the main parallelogram linkage. Look for “RD-M???”. Similarly, model number will be somewhere on the shifter.

Sounds like all the normal things that go wrong are going wrong, check the hanger is straight, the mech is compatible and change the inner and outer cables.

Have pictures if it helps. Also think the issues are in the whole range; after riding more today it seems like less indexing as just very sticky shifting (pressing twice sometimes does nothing then three times jumps two or three gears) Changing the cables is going to be my next resort but still waiting for them to arrive in the post. Am hoping that fixes things and will report back if not - thanks for all the help!!

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Maybe it's the picture but it looks like the pulley is miles away from the cassette. Adjust the B screw if so