Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Fixed

Mate needs a new seatpost bolt for his canyon, m6 socket head, 14mm, .75 thread pitch.

Any idea where to get one?

That's M6 fine thread. 1.0 is the normal pitch for M6 but you can google around for it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FINE-THREAD-HEX-SOCKET-CAP-SCREWS-A2-STAINLESS-ALLEN-KEY-BOLTS-SCREWS-M6-M8-M10/323005890083?hash=item4b34a6be23:g:NQ4AAOSw6VRaQv6C

there's probably better buying options out there

Semi-silly question: When swapping out drop bars, where do you put the shifters? Let them hang down, ask someone to hold them, masking tape them to the top tube...? Will letting them hang down place strain on the frame's cable stops etc?

Let the whole lot rest on the front wheel face plate off then put on the new bars in the same place . Transfer shifters align . Leave overnight cos your eyes will want to fiddle.

Trying to revive a project so far I'm 10 pounds in thanks to the forum, realised that I have no idea what I'm doing, I think will need the following...
New bearings for bb
Will I be able to just buy a single speed kit+ chain and remove the outer ring for a simple drive train?
See photos of break drop what am I going to need here....?
Also wanna plop risers on and use with some teckro 385 levers I've got lying around, will this even work?
Anything else obvious I'm missing out here I don't really want to plough money into it only to realise its a total lemon. Any links/parts/advice welcomed.

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Front drop

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Rear drop sorry for the massive pictures

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if you don't do this sort of thing often and the bottom bracket spins without play, then just leave it well alone. spray some gt85 in there if it feels a bit stiff but otherwise don't touch it. it could well be a problem as they can seize and be nightmare to get out, even people who know what they're doing will groan at the thought of fixing one. if it aint broke, etc

it looks easy and cheap to me otherwise.

if you're set on keeping those wheels, you'll likely need long drop callipers, any levers will probably be fine. I would put 27" wheels in there, as it probably had originally just as it fills the frame better.

take the outer ring off if you want to keep the inner one but you will probably have to put a spacer in the chainring bolts. just use 5x M10 washers, you might have to trim an edge to fit. otherwise buy smaller bolts for a single chain ring.

all a single speed kit is is a sprocket with spacers, you may have a sprocket and spacers kicking about already in the form of an old cassette, so try that.

buy a 1/8 chain online for a few quid.

get an old MTB from the dump for spares such as riser bars, pedals, etc.

should be fine, you shouldn't have any trouble. all the above are just suggestions if you want to do it as cheap as possible.

if not just buy a load of bits and get spendy

Appreciate that dude, I've got a battered MTB that I can try selvage misc bits from. Will have a go with what you have suggested above, thanks.

Spray GT85 in your bottom bracket is terrible advice. Don't.

Well got as far as removing outer chainring, m10 washers on bolts, bodged some bars on then put together the bottom bracket with new bearings and followed a youtube vid and put together and spins nicely picked up a chain, hoping to find some long drop breaks cause the wheels are super light, also need a rear cog and spacers ones I have are knackered.

tldr I didn't spray with gt85, in need long drop breaks

Thanks for the help tho

Low res update

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So the freehub body is perhaps a uniglide an old bb locking appears to fit can I use hyperglide cogs or will the spline pattern be different?

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Only meant spray gt85 in the to free it off if it’s seized up as a cheap quick fix on something he appears to want to keep as a cheap build.

Bottom brackets are the last job you want to just take apart and rebuild if you don’t work on bikes normally. There’s nothing I won’t fix on a bike including welding frames up and stuck seatposts but bottom brackets are the lowest on the list of things I want to tackle as they’re often nothing but trouble.

Out of interest, how would you go about sorting it out?

Taking it out, clean and repackaging it with grease, or if you don't have the means to do this leave as it is. GT85 will flush out the remaining grease, you'll get a few rides maybe but after that it will corrode very quickly.
TL,DR don't spray GT85 on bearings, use it only to unstuck the thing and repack it with more grease.

That’s kind of what I meant. I was more advising not to get involved in taking a bottom bracket apart unless needing to. Unseizing it if frozen with something to just get it moving again or leave it alone.

If you’ve tried fixing stuck bottom brackets I’m sure you would agree it would put anyone off doing anymore and kill a project off pretty quickly if they can’t get any further. If it all comes apart that’s fine but in my experience, they rarely do just come off, even with the right tools.

Hello all, a question about South London and hub gears.

From a non-bike friend: "my bike is a Peugeot from 70’s - French size, hub gear (which everyone struggles to take off for service) and oddly wired brake cable etc. I'm having loads of trouble finding someone to service it, every shop I've been to has been really unhelpful. The chain needs replacing and the brakes repairing, and it could do with a general service. What should I do?"

I've had a nosey around online incl Sheldon B but don't know much about hub gears or French vintage bikes. Does anyone recognise what brand of hub gear that is, or know anyone who could service it in South London? She is in Camberwell but very willing to travel.

Are there no markings on it or on the lever?

Looks a bit like a Sachs Orbit, though those came out in the 1980s and the frame is from the early 70s.

Some older Shimano units used that joint.

Looks similar to this:
https://youtu.be/ytBh11TMIV4

If it just needs adjusting or a cable replacement it should be an easy job for most shops. A full strip might be an unusual job for some places but probably not any more complicated than a 3 speed Sturmey.

Not sure who I'd recommend though, Brixton Cycles maybe?

Trying to figure out how much oil is supposed to be in some supension forks I'm thinking of servicing myself (kids' bike). Figured I'd better learn how to service sus forks in general as there's three of them in the house now and these forks are the cheapest of the bunch. Can't find any specifics through google, forums or manufacturers website. Is there a way to gauge this? Pour out the old oil in a measuring receptacle of my choice and fill up with slightly more new oil?

Ultegra R8000 RD won't shift into smallest cassette sprocket. It's fine when I disconnect the cable and push manually up the cassette and let it return, so thinking probably gunked up cables causing friction somewhere?

Do you have those stupid PTFE Shimano cables?

Just buying a stock M6 will not do the job as the head normally needs to be recessed on a Canyon seat post.
I looked everywhere including the best LBS's. Eventually bought a cheap Canyon seat clamp off ebay for a few quid and used the bolt!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SMOLIK-CANYON-POLISHED-ALU-SEAT-CLAMP-34-9mm-LIGHTWEIGHT-STAINLESS-ALLEN-BOLT/183205668557?hash=item2aa7e8a6cd:g:cI8AAOSw8S9a6Ye1

BB86 into a carbon BB shell, does it go in dry and do I need to apply some loctite, and if so, which one to get?