Donohue 853 lo-pro track/road fixed

jeeeze!

I find you an 853 donohue, in our size, with ellipses, for a bargain price, an unbelievable deal, and still... it's not enough!

I bet you were a nightmare at christmas.

Soz

So, today's progress:

Fitted cranks, taped bars (badly, using second-hand tape), went for a quick ride sans seatbost bolt hoping that the soaking in Coke overnight had been enough to kill the corrosion. So this is basically how it will look when it's done:

But the seatpost didn't move. Time is of the essence, I'm back in London on Friday and would like a fully working bike by then. So I went straight to the most drastic option:

Seemed quite fitting, as the guy I bought my other Donohue-built bike off said he'd had to to the same with that to remove a stuck seatpost. I thought that sitting with a hacksaw blade running it up and down the inside of the seatpost would be straightforward, but monotonous, but it turns out that is beyond me. I just couldn't get a level cut all the way down the inside of the post, and my attempts at squeezing it together and twisting it have gnarled it up a bit:

Also tried this, based on something I read on a Fatbike blog:

All to no avail so far, it's currently sat upside down, sans BB and cranks again, with Mr Muscle drain unblocker gel oozing through the cork that's supposed to be blocking it, somehow squeezing between the seatpost and seattube, and through the holes I've sawed in the side.

Fingers crossed for tomorrow...

Seeing as it hasn't got any paintwork to damage, as such, why not melt it out?

Heat is probably the next 'last resort' solution.

I reckon the combination of things I've tried so far must mean I'm nearly there.

How would you recommend heating it?

Blowtorch. Then cooling quickly. The different rates of contraction, of the two metals, will free the seatpost. The risk with the hacksaw job is: that you end up cutting into your seat-tube, whilst getting really bored and peeved off in the process.

I'm surprised you didn't try it in a vice, pre cutting.

Niiiice. Not the original forks though, are they 853 as well? I have the same Donohue 853 and it is red, like yours was, however I like the idea of some yellow. Make it stand out!

^^Don't be, a quick skim through the rest of this thread will give you an idea of my level of expertise.

Niiiice. Not the original forks though, are they 853 as well? I have the same Donohue 853 and it is red, like yours was, however I like the idea of some yellow. Make it stand out!

The forks are original to the build, they have the same eyelets as the seat stays, the same paint remains where you can see it, and look flush with the head tube, which is why I like them.

this wasn't a tt bike that had its rear deraileur hanger taken off was it?

A TT bike with mudguard eyelets?

It's someone's bling commuter / winter trainer turned ratty, isn't it?

looking at it I wish I'd bought it, exactly the kind of frame I could do with for long fixed rides and commuting.

get Bryan repaired.

Skint, but yeah will be doing.

No bottle bosses on Bryan.

If you're doing a proper repair, you could go full retard and get the framebuilder to add some braze-ons for mudguards, bottles etc.

If there is sufficient clearance

Yeah maybe, although admittedly the frame is a bit on the large side I may be better getting it repaired and shifting it to someone longer of leg. Not decided.

looking at it I wish I'd bought it, exactly the kind of frame I could do with for long fixed rides and commuting.

Part of me is really glad you didn't.

The other part is really wishing I'd never known about it. Still struggling with the seatpost. Going to take it up to the local blacksmith in a bit for some heat, hopefully. If that fails, I'm going to have to bring it down to London as it is and get it done there. Utter ballache.

Should've

a. Tried a vice

b. Not cut off the top

c. tried CAUSTIC SODA ...

d. Not cut the top off

E. Tried a vice.

You could always do what I did pour petrol down the ST and have a little bonfire.

Not sure how much it helped, but was quite fun.

Don't be disheartened, once the post is out you'll have a great frame. Had any opportunity to get a feel for the ride?

I maintain that the hacksaw blade method is the most likely to succeed, I just wasn't very good at it!

Seems to ride well, though I haven't ridden it far yet. Hopefully one day I'll laugh about this.

Local blacksmith? Is this the year 1532?

I removed a stuck post from my Donohue by putting one prong of a garden fork through the hole drilled into the seat post, thus had a shit load of leverage, twisted it out.

Frame looks great, will be crackin bike when all sorted!

Local blacksmith? Is this the year 1532?

In Northwich, it's at least 1870

The forks are original to the build, they have the same eyelets as the seat stays, the same paint remains where you can see it, and look flush with the head tube, which is why I like them.

You're right, missed the eyelets on the seatstays - Different frame then. Perfect for the winter coming up soon!

Right then, I think I have exercised all of the options I am willing to try myself. Blacksmith wasn't interested in heating it up, and his only suggestions were to keep tapping it with a hammer.

Armourtex have apparently never failed to remove a seatpost, as after trying solvents they stick the bike in the oven and use the heat to take it out. Prices there are pretty reasonable, especially if I combine it with a powder coating. Which seems like a good option, though it does rule out fadez. For now.

I have also contacted the forum's own coldharbour, aka Talbot Frameworks, and Oak, to see if either of them are up for the challenge. Then, the idea would be to rub boiled linseed over whatever was left over (hopefully an awesome scorch mark) and ride it around like that for a while.