Rotor cranks

Don't know how available they are, but that page says:

FEATURES
AERO 144 BCD

574 g for 170 mm / 584 g for 175 mm
155, 160, 165, 170, 172, 175 & 180 mm

Maybe they just haven't got round to making the 165mm ones yet?

^^My rotors are 165mm and they are the 2014 model so they definitely exist.

Rather than buying a new rotor track bb, couldn't I just pop the bearings out and replace them with these:http://www.wychbearings.co.uk/MR24377-2RS-Enduro.html
I'm pretty sure they are the same.

They also sell a ceramic version of the bearing for £25 each.

I think you can; but tester can confirm .. I would need to replace mine soon too (not track; ITA30)

The code for bearings is usually shown on the wiper seal so if you can see that code on your existing bearings then you can check if they'll fit.

However, do you have the tools to remove and install a press fit bearing? 'Hollow tech' type systems are single use .. You can 'bodge' it without the correct tools but you risk damaging the cups or the bearings.

I already have a new track bb and with my old one sitting here I figured its a worth a try. Removing the bearings will be the hard part. The bearings match the code on the plastic seal on the bb.

Worth a try then if you have a new BB ready to go and are not reliant on a successful change of bearings.

Without teaching you to suck eggs .. Once you've got the old bearing out. Put the new bearings in the freezer overnight and warm the cups up in the oven just before you are ready to fit. This will open the press fit tolerance while the two parts are different temperatures. Also when you fit the bearing find a pipe that is the same outer diameter as the bearing. You need to be hitting on the ring race that has the tolerance fit when installing bearings. In this case the outer ring race only. If you hit the inner race .. best case you'll damage the bearings inside, worst case the bearings will give way and the inner race will come out .. which ever the bearings ruined. And support the cup on a soft wood surface which will give to protect the cup faces from damage as you hit

So rotor 3D (24mm axle) can take any shimano type external BB right?

Yes, if it's a road 3D

Why Rotor cranks? The chainrings are not good science. Not much more than the nth take on non-round rings--- which have been tried off-and-on for a century--- they are more POS as "power of suggestion" than "power of science" (or to misquote Ed Burke, the father of American blood doping, "success through science") . Most of the research I've seen seems to point in the same direction on elliptical chainrings: they don't really work (and may even be counterproductive) in "real life". I won't try to contest that they may, at first, appear to "feel better".. or even that they might not deliver a placebo effect on rejeneration to some riders.. But.. like homöopathie.. they just seem to be expensive...

Thats cute hunny but I dont run Q rings and I dont (havent) paid more for the cranks than say Ultegra.

As ever, EdwardZ and 'the point' seem to be missing one another completely.

Selling ITA30 BB cups here: http://www.lfgss.com/conversations/254644/

Right, my turn to work out which fecking BB I need for a pair of Rotor cranks.

I have a pair of common or garden 3D cranks, so 24 mm axle diameter, that I want to fit to a Giant TCX SLR2. This has, I believe, a BB86 BB shell and currently has a pair of FSA Omega cranks fitted, with a FSA Mega Exo BB.

Can I use the FSA bearings or do I need to order the Rotor press fit bearings (I think these ones?)?

That's for a 30mm axle. I might have one knocking around that'd work for you, let me check.

You need one of these I think: http://clee-cycles.co.uk/esite/P1047/product

I bought one to experiment with but it would not work with my Rotor Track cranks.

Thanks Neil.

Actually mine's for PF30 (68mm wide) so it won't work for you - get that BB86 one, the KCNC units have a decent rep.

I thought both mega exo* and rotor 3d used 24mm axles so it should be a straight swap.

• some flavours use 24mm axles...
  

A quick one - is there a difference between the 3DF BB30 and non-BB30 cranks? I've just tried to fit a pair of these to my bike and they won't fit. The lock ring on the drive side crank is different from the ones I had fitted and won't allow the bolt that attaches it to the axle to engage.

I think I may have been sent the BB30 ones instead - does that sound logical?

Looks like I have the same cranks with a different spider. Fucking brilliant.

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/Slowtwitch_Forums_C1/Triathlon_Forum_F1/Rotor_3D+_crankset_doesnt_fit.__Why_P5139192/

I thought all the 3DF cranks had a 30mm axle?

They are BB30ish - the axle is longer than a true bb30 crank as it needs to accommodate external cups on threaded frames.

Edit - oh, do you have a cervelo branded crank?

Not that I'm aware of.

I think I may have a solution, I have a spider from the original pair, will try and fit that.

Right, an update.

It seems my existing cranks are BB30 which fit a standard BSA BB with Rotor's BB cups. The new cranks are not so won't fit.

Balls.