• might be of interest to some, a good quality 110-144bcd adapter

    http://www.bdopcycling.com/First-Spare%20Parts.asp#TRACKADAPTOR

  • Good find Colm.

  • I ordered that adapter, if anyone wants to try it out let me know.

  • FYI bdop is an awesome webshop.

  • Does anyone have any experience of the Quarq Riken powermeter? Unlikely, I appreciate, given that it's only been on the market for a couple of months, but it seems that Rotor 3D+ + Power2max + Praxis chainrings + Rotor BSA/BB30 BB is very similar in weight and price to a Quarq Riken and my existing BB. Which makes the latter a rather tempting option.

  • Just did my first FTP test. 235 watts.
    I am disapoint.

    2.77 per kg

    Well I reckon my FTP is already 245. Just to need confirm it.

    2.92 per kg

    Just tried the 8 minute test. FTP was 266.
    3.2 per kg.

    Winning :)

  • You can't derive FTP from an 8 minute test.

  • BTW having a decent FTP doesn't win races, if that's what you're aiming for.

  • It probably helps though

  • You can't derive FTP from an 8 minute test.
    it's a specific 2 X 8 mins test. Seemed popular. I have no idea though. Just trying to monitor improvement, and get a rough idea of how long certain rides should take.

    BTW having a decent FTP doesn't win races, if that's what you're aiming for.
    Not going to win much at 3.2 anyway. But it seems as good a guide anything else.

  • Tested the powercal. With the display at 3s average it jumped too much to be useful I ride. The data looked good for post analysis though. Going to try 30s averaging.

  • it's a specific 2 X 8 mins test. Seemed popular. I have no idea though. Just trying to monitor improvement, and get a rough idea of how long certain rides should take.

    The most popular test is to do a 20 minute maximal effort (after a 5 minute max effort and some recovery) and use 95% of the average 20 minute power as your FTP (as per Training And Racing With A Power Meter by Allen & Coggan)

    The most accurate test is to do a one hour time trial, since that is the definition of FTP (although I think Andy Coggan argues that the definition of FTP is actually the power for a 40km time trial).

    Many people seem reluctant to do a 1h test, I'm not sure why, I don't think it's any harder or more boring than any other hard training session.

    Not going to win much at 3.2 anyway. But it seems as good a guide anything else.

    Depends what kind of races you are planning on riding. Power to weight ratio doesn't really matter unless you're entering pure hill climb races or mountain stages of grand tours... Even in hilly road races over here it's not particulary relevant compared to the absolute power numbers. One of my team mates is very short and weighs about 8 stone, he can put out over 5 watts per kilogram for 20 minutes but I've never seen his name in the top 20 of any road race.

    If you're good at drafting, cornering, positioning etc you don't need a massive FTP to do well in races... you can be the strongest rider in the world but if you don't have tactical nous and racing skills to save energy and be in the right position at the end of the race you will still lose.

  • I can confirm that home replacement of knackered Powertap bearings with a rubber mallet and quick release as bearing press is a piece of piss.

  • might be of interest to some, a good quality 110-144bcd adapter

    http://www.bdopcycling.com/First-Spare%20Parts.asp#TRACKADAPTOR

  • Anyone used the newer G3 Powertap hub?

  • Dubtap. You can do mine then ;)

  • Saris appear to assemble them without the need for fancy stuff like "grease" so if I ever need another I'd definitely strip it down and get some in around the bearings and on the axle straight away.

  • Mine is the 2012 PRO which I think is just a bit heavier than the G3? I of course then added a steel freewheel to weigh it down further

  • Grease is just something that bike shops put near bikes in order to attract dirt and create a grinding paste to wear out components. GreaseFreeā„¢ since 1993.

  • "Despite losing the windows and adding hubshell width, the new 325g (claimed) G3 hub is over 80g lighter than the previous SL+"

    "The PowerTap Pro is meant for those with cost in mind when buying a power meter. While considerably heavier at roughly 425g"

    So, the Pro is 100g heavier and doesn't have the wider shell but $500/Ā£300 cheaper.

    Steel >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Cheese

  • Did you ever use the little yellow computer from the old Powertaps? How is the new Joule head unit?

  • The G3 has 57mm flanges vs 70mm for the PRO so that's where the weight is saved I guess, G3 has 55mm flange to flange vs 50mm for PRO

    Would be an easier build with deep rims; mine was a nightmare with the Velocity A23 and the shit build it came with out the box from Cycleops. With an eyeletted DT Swiss rim it has been fine.

  • I'm on an Edge 500

  • Ah right. I could use the 800 but Garmin fucks with the power measurements apparently so I'd prefer the CycleOps head unit. They're also smaller so I can run them right at the end of the TT bars.

  • I had a G3C for a while. All the electronic wizardry is in a removable pod which means when it goes wrong its not a case of sending the entire wheel back - just a small jiffy bag.

    That and the weight were the main selling points as I saw them

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About

Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

Posted by Avatar for hippy @hippy

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