Bottom bracket help!

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  • Cheers Sparky, I think you're right. I guess I'll just have to make the time.

  • Wicksie,

    Bottom picture with hexagonal bolt-head thing - should turn anticlockwise to remove (judging by the picture of the threads - unless my eyes are deceiving me, or you have flipped the image). You will need to remove this one first (don't bother putting a spanner on the other side at the same time - it won't help).

    Other one (top picture) likely to turn the other way to remove. However, the tools you have in that picture look totally inadequate for that job. I tried removing mine with a big, good quality adjustable and failed, but when I found my big flat spanner (designed for BB removal), it was actually really easy.

    Where are you based - anywhere near SW9? Otherwise, find somewhere nearby with a big vice you can borrow for 60 seconds.

  • Assuming it's English threaded, undo anti-clockwise on the non-drive side and clockwise on the drive side. If it's moving a little bit, try tightening it up a touch and then undoing it again - this could get it moving a bit more. Like others said, use proper tools.

  • Thanks both.
    I am trying to remove the bolt side. However I've heard that some Raleigh bike don't have opposite threading. I'm basically going clockwise on this because the lockring unscrews clockwise which seemed logical to me.
    I too assume it's English threaded.
    I guess I need to know for certain which way to do this then. Did I make that up about non reversed thread on some Raleighs? Anyone?

    The key is the tool clearly as I've scuffed up two wrenches.
    I'm in Brixton at a course tonight Tjuice if you're nearby and don't mind lending me the spanner?

  • Wicksie,

    Walking distance from centre of Brixton. Will be in this evening. Can you bring the frame with you - going to be needing the tool over the next couple of days, so would rather not let it go!

    PM me, and let's see if we can work something out. Of course, can't promise my tools will be able to sort it out - I don't have a bench vice.

  • Ha, was it? I forget where I heard what from.
    I'm still sticking to the theory that it will surely go the op way from the lockring, right?

    BTW your tool didn't fit Dan, which I think is a good thing as it may not be 24tpi.
    I was still hanging on to it just incase it is and I need it for a replacement.
    That ok?

    Sheldon is the man.

  • Cheers Dan, I'm hoping to have this sorted asap. Pinning my hopes on Tjuice up there. ;)

  • I'm still sticking to the theory that it will surely go the op way from the lockring, right?

    er, that's a bit confusing. The lock-ring will unscrew from the adjustable cup in the same direction as the adjustable cup will unscrew from the frame. If you're trying to go the other way ("op way" as you put it), no, that's badly wrong. If I've misunderstood what you've said, many apologies and ignore me.

  • Success! 2 days of serious lubing does it. Anti clockwise also, so that's
    the same way as the lock ring. Odd.
    Thanks all for your advice, tools and empathy.
    I'm still dancing.

  • Success! 2 days of serious lubing does it. Anti clockwise also, so that's
    the same way as the lock ring. Odd.

    Think about it! not odd at all. It can't be any other way. The lock ring must be the same type of thread as the frame, ergo whichever way the lockring unlocks so does the cup.

  • Success! 2 days of serious lubing does it. Anti clockwise also, so that's
    the same way as the lock ring. Odd.

    Think about it! not odd at all. It can't be any other way. The lock ring must be the same type of thread as the frame, ergo whichever way the lockring unlocks so does the cup.

    I thought the whole point of a lockring was to go in the op direction so it
    doesn't undo, like fixed hubs, non.

  • P.s I don't think ergo is used enough in modern English. Bravo.

  • While I have your attention, I'm now not entirely
    sure my new BB will fit the threads.
    It threads in easily part way but I don't want to try and
    force it in if it's not right.
    So does this go with this or should I just persue getting
    new ball barings instead?

    Thanks gurus.

  • Any numbers on the original BB anywhere?

  • it says
    3 S
    I 3
    p

    new one says
    1.370 x 24 tpi

  • Looks like I've got a 26tpi old BB and a 24 tpi new one then, right?
    I know Hilary said you could rethread these somehow.

  • Looks like I've got a 26tpi old BB and a 24 tpi new one then, right?
    I know Hilary said you could rethread these somehow.

    Yes - I had exactly the same thing done. LBS did it for about 20 quid. Make sure you go to a good bike shop though.

    If those cups from your old BB are still good you could just get a new axle. Otherwise sell the cups - they are hard to find.

    Er - that new BB looks way shorter than the original too - - maybe no probs but good luck.

  • Its on my beater so I don't really want to spend money. The cups
    and axel look ago, it just the ball barings I think I need.
    Take it rethreading myself is a bad idea then, even on a shite pub bike.

  • Clean it up, fit new balls. Job done.

  • Check if they are pitted. I can't find the link but look at Sheldon Brown for checking this. I think he may talk about headsets but the principle is the same.

    Actually, if It's a beater don't worry too much anyway - just get some new bearings and make do I reckon.

  • ^ +1 to the new ball B's.

    From the looks of my frame I thought my BB would be fubar, but after new bearings, good clean, regrease, it was all good.

    see this from fgg. for extra tips - I found it helped on a few things.

  • Try screwing the old lockring on the new non-drive side cup to find out if the threads are the same.

  • Cheers guys. Bobs garage looks like it could be handy.
    Just shopping for new ball barings. Any idea what size I need? Have no clue. I measured the old rusty ones which had a diameter of 23mm inside and 28mm outside. There's some on FleaBay at 1/4". Uhm...

  • TAKE THE OLD ONES!!!

    don't trust your measurements, the LBS will give you the right ones.

    EDIT: just thought you might be shopping online - LBS is prob quicker and they don't cost a fortune (can't remember the price, but even in BLB I paid less than a tenner for headset and BB bearings)

  • Ha, good idea, only I suspect they may crumble before they get there however.

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Bottom bracket help!

Posted by Avatar for paulc @paulc

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