Bike polo mechanics & fixing

I dont need the BB, I've got a few of them at home. Just the crank for one head?

My harvey balls got swallowed by the Newington bushes a long time ago.

Got all the heads I need, I'd throw some gold nuggets in with the crank for a pole

Square taper iso.

The freewheel is a BLB one.
It's not a cassette hub, there's no movement possible of the freewheel.
The hub is 135mm, the spacing for the hub is 135mm, everything on the frame is fine.

The cranks needs to come 'out' another 9mm, I think the only way is a longer bottom bracket. It's a pub bike, I'm not buying new cranks for it.

Assuming a reasonable margin of error on those measurements, it sounds like your crank is designed for a 120mm rear end, hence finding a BB with a long enough axle is unlikely...
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Longest bottom bracket I can find is only 127mm.

I've heard of BB axles that long, but only in formats like ISIS, where the axle reaches further into the crank, or BBs intended for using normal-ish cranks on Fatbikes.

Looks sort of like this one.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/40-TEETH-152mm-COTTERLESS-CHAINWHEEL-CRANK-SET-BLACK-SINGLE-CHAIN-RING-/00/s/MTA2MlgxNjAw/$(KGrHqZ,!qoFCTCs6(MKBQon4Qsc0w~~60_12.JPG

Finding a BB that solves the problem with those cranks on that frame if likely to take you more time, money and effort than giving up and asking people to rummage in their parts bin for

A Deore Hollowtech2 crankset and a used £10 Shimano external BB.

I've bought HT2-compatible chainsets (including BB and chainrings) from eBay for about £25 in the past, and you could probably sell the 'rings and chainring bolts to minimise the overall cost.

tl;dr:

Quit bodging, get fixing.

It's a pub bike. With a freewheel. Quit worrying about 9mm and leave this thread for srspolobsnss.

^ This...

I wouldn't worry about it apart from the fact the chain comes off every time the cranks turn.

Get a 120mm-rear frame to match the cranks and some MTB cranks to match the 135mm.

Now you have a loaner.

I wouldn't worry about it apart from the fact the chain comes off every time the cranks turn.

Cycle shorter distances.

I know everyone loves a happy ending, especially TS, so you'll be glad to hear Ed's £5 cranks worked OK on my pub bike.

Who doesn't K3 happy endings, Kev?

http://thealbion.cc/the-federal-v3-freecoaster-hub-2/?utm_source=feedly

I wonder if anyone has used or considered using a free coaster hub for polo. Just imagine tracking back to defend, pulling a 180 endo and rolling backwards towards your own goal whilst picking the ball from a surprised opponent. It would work well in corners as well. Who's got one on a BMX to try?

Wouldn't the gap before it engages going forwards be a pain in the arse.

How much gap is there? Can't be more than a quarter turn can it?

Never tried one, although I want to. I think it can be adjusted but it's gonna be loads more than a quick engaging freewheel and I find shimano ones too slow to engage, so reckon it'd put me right off. If you can do sweet backwards skillz though I'm all for it.

How much gap is there? Can't be more than a quarter turn can it?

quarter turn is maaaasive.

That's what I mean, so as long as you know it will engage there shouldn't be a problem. I'm guessing a polo bike would produce more torque than a bmx would, that would be my only concern.

Hi guys! I've got some real doubts about disc brakes and I hope that I will find some help...
I've got 3 disc brakes to choose from:
2 hydraulic ones:
Shimano Deore T615 or Shimano Deore M615
and immortal avid bb7 ....
Did somebody used it ( or similar ones ) in the past? and can give me some clues what to choose for polo? Mechanic or Hydraulic ones... What are the main differences etc..

Hydrolic give better modulation and work better when looked after. Mechanical are less likely to be destroyed in a game, and if they are will be easier to find replacements/spares by court.

If you've got two sets of hydro's put one on the bike and carry the other with you where ever you go, plus all the tools to replace levers, hose, do a bleed etc. and of course fluid.

There are some hydro users, but BB7's are probably the disc brake of choice currently.

I've got a bog standard shimano mechanical brake. it works perfectly when set up correctly - however i can't be bothered to do it. i just whacked it on from another bike. one pad rubs a bit. if you need everything set up 'just right' it might not be for you, but if you like riding your bike at full speed into walls and still having a funcitioning brake - its fine.

if you like riding your bike at full speed into walls you won't be needing a brake

ftfy

http://thealbion.cc/the-federal-v3-freecoaster-hub-2/?utm_source=feedly

I wonder if anyone has used or considered using a free coaster hub for polo. Just imagine tracking back to defend, pulling a 180 endo and rolling backwards towards your own goal whilst picking the ball from a surprised opponent. It would work well in corners as well. Who's got one on a BMX to try?

Em has one... Fucking weird things, do not like...

I wont comment on hydraulics but I think Eddy, Philip shadowman and Emyr uses them. Can't really recall any other names ATM. Eddy is running SRAM/AVID XO with internal routed hose, Philip I think is running Saints again with internal routing and Emyr is running XTR with external routing.

As for mechanical disc, yes BB7 is considered the best but they are not immortal. The red adjusting cone on the outside can come loose and fall off and they are quite fiddly made. Also there is a misconception that the BB7 has two moving pads but this is not the case - it has two adjustable pads but only one actuation arm. Only the outside pad moves when the cable is pulled and the inner pad is static but you can adjust it as it wears to get it closer to the rotor. Hence BB7 ≠ Dual moving pad brakes.

This is a bit of uncharted waters but I am going to give the TRP Spyre Disc a try. It is more compact than the BB7, less fiddly and generally looks better made. Lots of good reviews at the bottom of the page but alas nothing in relation to polo of course. They are short pull which means that paired with a conventional v brake lever will give you a sharper stop but I will counter that with a adjustable lever (I chose the DX, the Avid SD is another option) to enable me to choose my preferred settings. Nice price too at 64 quid for front and rear.

There is also another TRP disc that I am keeping an eye on, the HY/RD which at 100 quid for front or rear isn't really cheap. The reservoir is at the caliper (gulps...) and there is no hose but instead it is actuated by a cable (yay!). Quite a few nifty features too like self centering pads and a lock-out option when you are adjusting them. Again untested for polo but I would love to give one a try when I have the cash.

Hope this helps pajac.

I wont comment on hydraulics but I think Eddy, Philip shadowman and Emyr uses them. Can't really recall any other names ATM

Chan?