Bike polo mechanics & fixing

Mine were from abroad and have been fine.

my hong kong bb7's have been fine.

Got a real one on order.
Will a nokon cable work routed through the topcap?

Yeah Crumbles, it will. I have some blue, enough to do front brake, but I'm not going to be using it as I'm trading Josh some stuff for gold.

I've been using Avid Flak Jacket cables which they recommend for BB7's, unfortunately I was using this housing on the NS for ages and it's pretty worn out now. Changing to Nokon is purely for aesthetics. Jagwire also make compressionless housing and will probably be the cheapest (on cost price).

Definately use compressionless housing for the BB7, makes it loads better. But between the makes/brands of it there isn't much difference imo.

How did you mess up your hydro btw? This is what puts me off sticking my Hope C2's on my polobike.

Cheers jimmy, think ill probs go for jagwire, but ill have a little look into it.

From what I can see I think its taken a mallet hit, or somehow during one of my numerous bails, and the hosing at the top of the caliper has started leaking, which tbh, would have been protected by a rotor guard.
But that and my lack if knowledge of hydraulics is enough to go for cable.
I'll try get it fixed and then stick the hopes on the whyte.

If you want cable disc would seriously look at the gusset one. It's duel actuated like a hydro disc so pulls better and easier to set up

goodrich housing is good.

^ goodridge?

#daverage

the silver stuff that looks weaved innit. (no idea how to spell it)

This seems to be where most people have a polo hydro failure: At the junction of hosing with caliper or lever. I don't see how that could be remedied with different hose choice (but goodridge are the industry leaders, like compressionless housing, it compresses less and therefore less feeling&power is lost), but I do think that a rotor guard will have helped, question is, how do you solve the lever-junction? IIRC that's where B's Elixir broke, too? With all the endo-ing I do I would imagine the lever being the weakest point.

And yeah, just like you Felix I know how to setup every type of cable brake and despite being the most princessy of all, the BB7's only took me a few days to master the setup. What puts me off Hydro is that when it goes wrong, it's a lot of work to fix it. Bleeding a brake line takes a lot more time and patience than threading a new innercable through an outer.

B's elixr broke because B jumped off his bike like a twat and swung his bars so they clipped and caught on the TT. User error. I have had my shimano hydro start to leak at the top, but it wasnt bled properly. The bar end trick on the offiside bar works to protect it from spinning around and hitting the reservoir on the TT.

Apologies, but still as you say on the shiman, it's leaking where the hose meets the lever. If hoses get snagged these have to be strong. They're probably strong enough for getting caught on twigs etc, whilst MTBing, but a poloplayers swing (or fall) is a different matter.

I wonder how hard it would be to make something like most electrical items have where the cable meets them. Powertools always have big chunky pieces of rubber at the junction to stop the cables inside from breaking due to being bent everywhich way....

My Avid Juicy 3 has an inline hose at the lever, with a rubber boot covering about 0.75" of hose.

oh yeah Avid levers do have those.

Avid clearly the way to go in polo then. Other than the fact that the inline reservoir makes the lever mahoosive.

Avid levers are also flippable so you can buy a pre-bled front kit and not screw it up.

The bar end trick on the offiside bar works to protect it from spinning around and hitting the reservoir on the TT.

hey b, just setting up a set of hydro's now. so would like to know more about this trick you speak of. don't want a shiny, new set of brakes to get smashed up straight away by my ignorance.

You fit a bar end, (commonly used for mountain biking) half way down the side where the lever isnt. (between the grip and the stem) and it will stop the lever reaching the TT. Be warned though you want to pad out the TT or the bar end because it will contact, so you dont want it to dent your TT. I'll see if i can find a picture.

I wondered why you had that on there but was too scared too ask in case it was glaringly obvious

Actually i dont have one. I noticed it amongst the spanish guys first.

Are all disc-brake front wheels quick release hubs?

Is there such a cleat that will attach a road shoe with the spd-sl three holes, onto a standard spd pedal?

Are all disc-brake front wheels quick release hubs?

Some Surly front disc hubs are solid axle ("new" hubs not the new "ultra new" hubs).

Are all disc-brake front wheels quick release hubs?

I have an Echo TR Disc front hub which uses allen-bolts into each side of the axle. It's a pain in the arse because there's no way to stop the axle turning as you try to undo the second side. 129g though.

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/front_disc_hubs/echo_tr_disc/c20p10705.html

Kev; yeah most wheels are QR now except track stuff. This said there's nothing stopping you replacing the axle with a solid & nutted one aftermarket... Eh don't you want QR? Theft? I replaced my qr skewer with an allen key one.

There are cleat adapters available for wht you seek but findin them in the uk is difficult, plus, they add a good 5mm to your sole thickness and the clear is no longer recessed meaning you're damaging it when walking...