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All interesting to hear, thanks a lot for posting.
I bought them as snug as I could get away with and in a narrower width than is typical, as I read that they can stretch a bit. The trees don’t feel excessively large for the shoes – they slip in fairly easily – but should I not use them all the time?
I’ve read of people who hardly use polish at all, advocating just using a slightly damp cloth and polish as rarely as possible (twice a year?). I’ve looked into it all but there are a lot of different opinions out there. I’m especially cautious as I think I’ve managed to spoil my Tricker’s boots very slightly over the last couple of years by not conditioning them often enough, relying mostly on polish to keep the leather nourished.
While I don’t really understand the use of the word of boring, I get that the texture of cordovan is imperfect. Despite the gloss it does have a slightly ruddy texture to it. On the other hand, the thing I love about it, especially Horween’s Colour 8 (dark burgundy), is the richness of the colour and the way it lightens at the creases (which are in fact bends rather than creases on cordovan). I really like the look of the leather, it’s very unique. We shall see though.
Lastly, given what they cost I might have to leave it at just one pair!
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SP, I really like them and I like the way you've laced them.
EdwardZ, It sounds like you've got an impressive shoe collection!
I don't know about "impressive" but when you purchase good shoes then you get to wear them not just for years but decades. Since many of the designs of our shoes date from from the 19th (Derby, modern brogues) and 18th (such as the Blucher) centuries--- some even older such as court shoes (these days sold less to men as to women as so-called "pumps")--- its not that they go out of style. While a pair of handmade grade shoes costs many times over the price a pair of lesser grade "fashion shoes" their cost amortized over their period of use make them the better deal!
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Not for me, beaky.
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Wasn't expecting them to be so comfortable. Trying to resist wearing them every day.
Nice shoes, nice combo
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@SP - how did you gauge the sizing?
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@SP - how did you gauge the sizing?
With Alden you can't guess sizing as the shoes sizing is not just the length and their 2 widths (Alden are sized also with heel width) but also the last. Some lasts are longer (the Barrie for example over the Plaza) and some shorter. Some lasts with same nominal widths seem to fit tighter, resp. looser than others. The only way to size the shoes is Last and length, width/width. Once you know what last and size is good one can order them again as they tend to be resonably consistent but its a crap shot without trial. Here one probably needs the assistance of a good well stocked shop as most people tend to not know how to size shoes and end up with shoes that are too short and too wide. The greatest problem these days in Europe is that most shops don't carry a wide enough selection of the shoes and tend to stock them mainly in popular widths effectively meaning that they fit almost nobody correctly.
Lastly, properly fitted shoes don't need to "break in" to fit. If they don't fit at the shop they just don't fit so when you go to the shop take a few hours and your socks with you...
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@ EdwardZ - could you recommend a good cobbler in London? You seem to know plenty about this things so it'd be interesting to hear your recommendations. Pondering a full re-sole of my boots this winter but not sure if should send them back to Wolverine in the states (if they provide the service that is) or have it done locally.
Want to take them from a leather sole to a rubber commando
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They look a bit sex pest.
They even have "GAG" stamped on them.
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Was going to get some dromarti's for commuting and office duties, but I'm thinking these might be better as they're fur lined for cold commutes.
I really like them, but never had fur lined boots before, anyone had a pair?
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Tried that this year, I've been using my meindl boots but for some reason my feet have just been cold all this winter, even with 2 pairs of wool socks.
But as I'm a size 12 the socks are too tight to be of any use really. These look like a good alternative and good value for money.
In the non freezing day commutes I generally use my Chelsea boots and goretex overshoes if it rains.
I forgot them once and when I arrived I had to tip water out of the boot, funny really and I'm glad I had wool socks on.
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^^ This
I live in a place that regularly has sub zero temps and runners (trainers) are what I use through the winter. Granted, it's cold enough not to be wet most of the time.
Too tight = too cold. -
Another example of resoled CDB:
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I always use shoe trees for my proper leather shoes, you get more out of them if you treat them well when not wearing the. Buy cedar wooden ones, always.
Shoe trees: always cedar, always unvarnished.
When they start to lose their "cedar aroma" give them a once over with some fine sandpaper.
Why 'must' they be cedar? I get the aroma repels moths but do their eggs attack leather, or is it just another line of defence?
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Sorry, I forgot to add the moisture absorption bit.
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Why 'must' they be cedar? I get the aroma repels moths but do their eggs attack leather, or is it just another line of defence?
Moths just "follow their noses" when it comes to cedar, lavander and a number of "natural" repellents. The oils are not poisonous to moths, their eggs or larvae. Cedar and lavander oils have a strong pungent smell and the reasoning behind their use is that the smell will overpower the scent of wool. There is, unfortunately, little scientific evidence to support this theory.
Cedar's main function when it comes to shoes is to "overpower" the smell of poorly made shoework.
Are cedar shoe trees of any benefit? Their main benefit is cost. Cedar wooden shoe trees are cheap to make.
Are their any downsides to cedar? Yes. Most cedar trees are poorly made and quite rough. All woods absorb and displace water. Most cedar trees are not terribly stable. Cedar seems to be an American marketing thing.
The best shoe trees are made as lasts for the shoe. I only have one of these and they are nice but it came with a pair of handmade shoes that I bought over 20 years ago (and they were literally the last of a breed).
nev
EdwardZ
Rich_G
coppiThat
Multi_Grooves
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handtightenonly
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About
Proper leather shoes
Posted by
@StandardPractice
Cordovan is, I feel, not that easy to care for. It has the advantage, like wax leather, of being suitable to boning, resp. spooning, but cordovan shoes tend to stretch and are prone to changing its shape. Its almost Karma how they'll develop. Tight shoe trees can prevent wrinkles but they can also stretch things. Tricky to clean and quite sensitive to oils and excess wax one needs a specific care method. I find I need often more time to polish them. It has a unique shine but its texture is boring. The main advantage of cordovan is the regularity of its quality as there is only one tannery producing it (Horween in Chicago). I have several pairs but--- as one can tell-- I'm no longer a great fan.. All said, I would still think a pair (or two) does belong in every man's waredrobe..