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• #327
Bike on the other side of the railings.
Mini D through front wheel, frame and railings.
Fagh through rear wheel, frame and thickest part of the railings.
Plastic bag over the seat as a small deterrent.:)
The picture frames on the other hand, belong in the locking fail thread >>>
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• #328
Just got my 2 locks a Fag mini and an Abus X-Plus 54.
Now just have to hope I can lock both around the frame, bike isn't being shipped till monday...
With that bag on the seat thing you could pick up some dog poo pooper scooper inside out style then turn the bag right ways in make sure the poo is smeared all over the inside of the bag and carry it around. Then when you want to lock up just put it over the saddle inside out.
Extreme, yes.
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• #329
re: getting the fagh mini around front wheel, frame and street furniture, depending on the bike/bars/brake sometimes you may find it easier to turn the bars round 170-180 degrees so the front wheel is pointing backwards as it puts the rim closer to the downtube of the frame if you have big clearances.
otherwise the fagh mini often works well around the rear stays/rear wheel/pole if you don't run a rear brake (see my photos further back in the thread) which would leave the abus xplus 54 for the front as it has more length (i believe)
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• #330
otherwise the fagh mini often works well around the rear stays/rear wheel/pole if you don't run a rear brake (see my photos further back in the thread) which would leave the abus xplus 54 for the front as it has more length (i believe)
I do this with my touring bike complete with rear brake, mudguards and pannier rack on all but the chunkiest of bike racks, it works surprisingly frequently and gives the lock a good snug fit.
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• #331
tbh I usually just lock this with the min evo round the head tube but I brought out the fahg this evening
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• #332
Regularly see this locked up outside Westfields, pretty good job imo
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• #333
It doesn't barspin. :(
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• #334
Double spok makes locking quick and easy!
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• #335
Is it better to use a small U lock, like the new yorker, or a larger one. I'd assume the smaller one so there is less space for leverage?
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• #336
Is it better to use a small U lock, like the new yorker, or a larger one. I'd assume the smaller one so there is less space for leverage?
Use one that is big enough to fit around your frame, a wheel and a stationary object in the street. Anything larger is unecessarily heavy.
Strength wise size makes little difference, it will not affect cutting. But a smaller lock will make it harder to get a jack in it.
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• #337
I'm doing a course way out west for a week and would like to leave my bike at Liverpool St station every day 8-6 and catch the train. I know there are racks around the station but does anyone have any experience/opinions on how likely it is to still be there when I get back each evening?
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• #338
Edit: Whoops, wrong thread. ;)
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• #339
That should clearly be in 'How not to lock your bike'. You did a funny. :)
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• #340
Regularly see this locked up outside Westfields, pretty good job imo
This is particularly good because the bars, stem and seatpost are generic and non valuable. So many bikes like this with thomsons & chris king stuff begging to be pinched.
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• #341
Very good tips by Dom, haven't thought about the way the frame/wheels is locked preventing the theft from removing the wheels;
^ Ouch :(
I was so glad I locked my front wheel to my frame when this happened on Saturday, otherwise I could have been looking at a much bigger loss:
It also made me realise that front wheel to frame is a must; front wheel to stand and they can still get the forks. (I'm aware the best would be front wheel, frame and stand but that's not possible with those tyres.)
It's well locked enough to reduced severe losses.
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• #342
I was wondering about the forks. Unless there's some sort of security in the axle bolts I can't work out what's preventing them from being stolen? Might be a bit awkward wiggling the wheel out from between them, but once that's done they're gone.
Lucky the bastards were either too thick or too rushed to have the opportunity.
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• #343
Because the tyres/downtube combo make it harder to lower the wheel enough to pull the fork out of the headtube.
Also with the wheel on, there isn't any way of moving it out of the way to get enough room for the steerer to clear the headtube.
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• #344
Hmm, good point Brun.
It may be possible, I suppose, but this is slightly harder than just lifting the head tube over the steerer.
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• #345
Maybe you just need a bigger lock to take in frame, front wheel and stand? If they cut your one lock or the stand they could take the whole thing and worry about the second lock later. Granted cutting the stand might cause comment in a busy street.
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• #346
That stand isn't very strong, quite easy to cut through than the old Sheffield one.
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• #347
The ESB forks taper in so are really tight around the hub.
Getting a wheel out is hard enough unlocked in a stand let alone when clamped in and shit -
• #348
Major overkill confusion. i dont know whether this goes in here or how not to lock...
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• #349
With that chain, it goes in Anti
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• #350
Cut through that fence pretty easy, I reckon.
I know for a fact that the rail in question is manufactured from Adamantium so probs would be fine. They should really start making locks out of that shit.