A solution to NOT drill your track forks and have a normal front brake nonetheless

I fear aluminium will be too weak, so rather go for machined steel.

There's also the option of EBM (electron beam melting) which prototypes titanium parts, I know a place where they have two of these machines, it's expensive but super strong as well.

You're still not getting it.
I read what RPM said to just mean if you attached ANYTHING to the star nut bolt which would allow you to exert leverage on it, it would move easily as it wasn't designed for anything more than applying a pretty small amount of vertical pressure onto the headset.

the above is what you still seem to be not taking in.

Must be great having access to any of those types of machines.
I could really do with access to a means of machining aluminium too....sigh, sometimes a sewing machine just isn't good enough. :]

the above is what you still seem to be not taking in.

Right, because I still do not see a relevant amount of leverage being applied to a phalanx of two starnuts sitting 60mm at the inside of the tube and being guided by a 45mm snug inner stem (maybe I should really do a drawing that shows clearly the relations of leverage in the piece). If the design fails nonetheless, I can still change it until it works.

In the end it's my money and my teeth, so you can only win ;-)

you said "snug" that is the difference, a star nut is no way snug.

I know, but I wrote about the snug inner stem before, with reference to dmczone's image.

sleep now!

Starnuts are good in their own place. But this doesn't seem to be the right place.

Even if you shove a quill style wedge up the steerer tube it's going to be better than just a couple of starnuts as it has 3 or 4 inches of metal before the wedge. The wedge will simply be holding the mechanism up in the tube.

People have mentioned flex coming from the material thickness. These are all from pulling forces. If you put the brake on the rear of the forks the surely it will have the crown of the forks to push against. Ok, it doesn't look pretty but it might work better.

So to sum up;

Magnus asks for feedback on his idea
He gets feedback but doesn't like it
He makes the product based on his idea so shouldn't have even asked for feedback
The product will only be for his personal use (no way is there a market for this)

So what was the purpose of this post again?

I'd say wedge.

A star nut won't have the possibility of coming loose over time like OP says a wedge has the potential to do, BUT:

1. It's a temporary brake right? So it'll be removed and re-installed frequently anyway.
   
2. As a temporary brake, a star nut makes it difficult to remove i.e. you have to take the stem off, put a pipe down your steerer and give it a whack.
   
   

What oz. said about mounting it behind is a good idea, but it's for track frames, and track frames don't have enough clearance!

If it's not a temporary brake, I'd go with star nuts on top of a wedge. I can see a star nut, even several of them, buckling due to heavy braking. A snug wedge'll stop it moving around, therefore stop any potential buckling, and with a star nut on top it'll stay put.

You could also have a U-shaped brake bridge (like you get on MTB front forks) that goes over the front wheel and mount the brake on there. Then just jubilee-clip-esque the bridge to the fork legs. Or is this how clamp-on brakes work anyway?

So to sum up;

Magnus asks for feedback on his idea
He gets feedback but doesn't like it
He makes the product based on his idea so shouldn't have even asked for feedback
The product will only be for his personal use (no way is there a market for this)

So what was the purpose of this post again?

• I did like a lot of the feedback I got
  
• Several ideas of people here will actually go into the next design
  
• The market for this product is the same as clip-on brakes
  
  

So what was the purpose of your post again?

Even if you shove a quill style wedge up the steerer tube it's going to be better than just a couple of starnuts as it has 3 or 4 inches of metal before the wedge. The wedge will simply be holding the mechanism up in the tube.

If it's not a temporary brake, I'd go with star nuts on top of a wedge. I can see a star nut, even several of them, buckling due to heavy braking. A snug wedge'll stop it moving around, therefore stop any potential buckling, and with a star nut on top it'll stay put.

Ok, I repeat for the last time: still it seems to be not clear that I am already working on a next design that does **not **look like my image at the beginning of this thread anymore.
And, it does not matter at the moment if starnut or wedge or whatever. All of them, also the starnut, will be supported by a inner stem that sits snugly in the steerer tube for at least 30mm or more. *Then *there follows the starnut/wedge/expander/whatever. Like in dmczone's image.
What I am currently doing for the next design is finding a way to deal with wafer-thin clearance situations, that's more interesting.

^this.

Maybe I was over complicating things.

For some reason, this thread has generated far more discussion than it warrants, I am off to count the snails in the backyard.

Well, you've had 22 fucking hours and we still don't have a number ?

If the product you suggest is ever going to be viable, then it needs to be quick/easy to install and remove.

If the product you suggest is ever going to be viable, then it needs to be quick/easy to install and remove.

yes, will be considered.

Ok, I repeat for the last time: still it seems to be not clear that I am already working on a next design that does **not **look like my image at the beginning of this thread anymore.
And, it does not matter at the moment if starnut or wedge or whatever. All of them, also the starnut, will be supported by a inner stem that sits snugly in the steerer tube for at least 30mm or more. *Then *there follows the starnut/wedge/expander/whatever. Like in dmczone's image.

That's what I was suggesting. No need to be an arse about it.

Well, you've had 22 fucking hours and we still don't have a number ?

11

One short for the dozen you ordered, so I chucked a couple of slugs in for free, is that OK?

22 hours to remove a shoe.

10 fingers + 1 toe = 11.

Lace ups...

Hipster slip ons, good for counting.

-

• The market for this product is the same as clip-on brakes
  
  
  
  

Exactly.

Time would be better spent making something more than 3 people would actually want.

That's what I was suggesting. No need to be an arse about it.

Okay, sorry.

NP. Anyway how often do you intend to remove/reinstall the brake? Like I said in my other post I think a starnut would be a pain to remove because you'd have to take the handlebar stem out and bash a bit of pipe down. If the starnut gets properly stuck in there, your forks will take a battering.

If, on top of the brake stem thing, you could get/make something like a screw anchor that opens up like an umbrella inside the steerer, you'd have the security of the 'cutting' action of a starnut but more easily removable because it'd only be one little hex bolt on the underside of the brake mount.

NP. Anyway how often do you intend to remove/reinstall the brake? Like I said in my other post I think a starnut would be a pain to remove because you'd have to take the handlebar stem out and bash a bit of pipe down. If the starnut gets properly stuck in there, your forks will take a battering.

if you have you ever encountered a starnut in real life and not just on the internet you would be aware of the threaded hole down the middle. you attach a bolt to it. the clue is in the 'nut' bit of it's name.

there is no need to remove the SFN when removing the retard ation device that nobody wants to buy.