Functional bikes. Not Porn not Anti

guys, buy the shimano hub, you will not notice the difference while riding. there is no point investing
hundreds of pounds into those. they all output 3W. Get the best lamp instead.

^^^ That's not a disc version though. For some reason they then jump massively. If it was £180 then at that price you may as well spend the extra to buy "the best".

That said I had a cheap ~£20 Shimano on, and really you didn't notice it when riding. As you said there was definite friction when holding, but once you're going you can't feel it.

I'd say pick your price point and choose the hub accordingly. I think Smallfurry has one of SP ones on his long bike... and based on his geekery plus time spent choosing components is a good endorsement.

there is no point investing
hundreds of pounds into those.

Let's be honest here. You buy a SON because it smashes every other dyno-hub aesthetically.

Oh, I just read you still can not service the bearings on a SON. almost 15 years later! You have to send them in.
I have the first generation and the bearings got really wobbly quite soon but they told me nothing could
be done at the shop I got it from.

I like the clutch aspect of the SP one- zero drag when you turn the lights off.

Now what rims for (usually) 700x28 tyres, but with the option for 32c knobblies?

Clinchers?

Photo is hyperlinked. But yes. They're only offering them as a full build, but I'm sure you can get them as rim only if you ask.

Either that or Enve XC rims.

Very tempted to get this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SP-switchable-hub-dynamo-dynohub-PD-7-36h-smoothest-known-man-/271069528387?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1d00c143

Anyone got any thoughts/experiences?

Looks like a good Christmas present at £122.

Nice hub. Mines not connected at the moment as I cant seem to get a solid connection, to my cheapo lamp. Which makes having the option to by-pass the dynamo well worth while.

Where did you buy from SF?

Where did you buy from SF?

Same seller as in your link. All went hunky dory I seem to remember.

Any details you need just PM me. Its part of a cargo bike so sees its fair share of abuse.

I like the clutch aspect of the SP one- zero drag when you turn the lights off.

Will you notice it?

I gotta says on a 13kg bicycle, I'm not sure it's a pressing matter.

If you don't have to lose 3.3W to the dynamo then why do so?

What might be interesting (for a given value of interesting) is seeing if the ~200g weight penalty for the clutch over the un-clutched hub evens up the constant 3.3W drag of the hub.

What might be interesting (for a given value of interesting) is seeing if the ~200g weight penalty for the clutch over the un-clutched hub evens up the constant 3.3W drag of the hub.

I was interested in this too.

At the end of the day. Plenty of budget dynamo lamps dont even have an off switch. So I liked the idea of being about to 'switch off at the mains' so to speak.

The resistance is huge when spinning a bare wheel (sans tyre). But like Ed points out, its not noticable on a complete tank bike.

I love my ti audax/road bike but don't like the idea of the drive train getting clogged up and knackered in the winter.

Which leads me to think of what can I do to protect the bike during the winter months?

Few ideas-

Convert the bike to fixed - it does have semi horizontal dropouts so won't be a problem but it's a bit of a pain and would involve cutting cables - possibly? I'd need new cranks/ and wheels - probably brakes too.

Add rust proof/ti components - drive train - don't even know if this is possible.

Scrap all the above and build a fixed frame for winter duties - easily the most costly.

Invested in a different mudguard, especially with a longer flap on the front to stop your feet and chainset from getting dirty.

Or just make your own front flap.

Buy a winter whip ^^

The irony is that it IS a winter whip.

It's not a winter whip at all.

Built as a year round audax bike.

My mistake, you're right.

It's a winter, spring, summer and autumn whip.

Or WSSAW for short.

You know what I mean. I'd like to protect the drive train as much as possible during the winter months.

Regular cleaning, a cheaper tigra cassette and new chain?

and increase the mudguard's flap will make a noticable difference;

it will keep both your feet and drivetrain cleaner than they used to be.

Here is a rather inchoate, subject to change and otherwise rambling idea for a new bike:

• 753 frame, geometry as close to my SystemSix as possible (Oak)
  
• Room for 28c tyres and mudguards, or 32c CX tyres without guards
  
• Mounts for Disc brake, cable operated groupset (would be Di2 but cannot operate that in thick gloves)
  
• Tapered steerer
  
• BSA Bottom bracket
  
• Full rack and guard mounts, including dynamo light mounting points.
  
• Whisky 7 carbon disc fork
  
• Shutter Precision front hub, Hope ProII Evo rear, Mavic TN719 rims, DB spokes
  
• Rotor cranks with P2M meter
  
• SRAM Force shifters and mechs
  
• Hayes cable operated disc brakes
  
• 3T finishing kit
  
• Orange and white Penguin paint scheme
  
  

The idea being a true year round use bike, one that would see all my winter training miles and rainy day rides.

Discuss argue.

Might give that a go thanks Ed.

Also might give the adding a tiagra casette a go.