Road bike recommendations

cock-tease

No rack mounts, and less clearance on the PX.

Then add what miro said here.

Obvious reply.

But what about the PX Ti sportive? It has mounts for guards, and a rear rack. Plus it'd make a nice roadie, striped down.

Eh?

Eh?

Only noticed the rack mounts later. Like I said, I dont think the lynskeys versions had them. The weird bit being that the van nics own sportive bike doesnt have them either.

The clearance thing is spot on though. For one the spicer has a long wheel base for heel clearance from panniers, and toe clearance with guards.

should post to say - don't order wheels from Dave Hinde.

I have just had both wheels re-tensioned and trued after riding the first 250k (ish) on them.. wheel tension was a joke (some spokes were scarily soft) and they'd completely fucked up the dishing on the rear. No permanent harm done to me or the wheels and they are now solid as a rock. Lesson learned.

Is this where we post "told you so"?

unfortunately no one told me so before I bought the wheels, only after. Still no harm done, no bones broken and still a cheap pair of training wheels. Will not be buying anything else form them

I too ordered them, but because I work in a bicycle shop and a friend of mine is a mechanic, they can true it for me for free.

I thought that you work there as a mechanic?

Is it not normal to get the wheels trued after some break in time? I had a set built and was told to bring them in for a tension check and true after a few hundred miles - obviously that would be free of charge if local. I did this after about 100 miles (thanks arup!) and they've been fine ever since.

(* built by wheelroom, not arup or hinde)

Yeah it's good to keep an eye on them when they're still new but...

wheel tension was a joke (some spokes were scarily soft) and they'd completely fucked up the dishing on the rear.

^ this is not really ok or normal.

I thought that you work there as a mechanic?

He's a bracket salesman

what miro_o said...

I fully expected to have give them a true - which I was happy to do myself.. but after 5 mins with a spoke tool and some squeezing I realised that they were beyond my skills. Mechanic was pretty appalled at the state of the rear when I dropped it off this morning.

Great link!

That spa cycles jobbie looks great OTP, ready built with Apex. IMHO I very well thought out build.

Only noticed the rack mounts later. Like I said, I dont think the lynskeys versions had them. The weird bit being that the van nics own sportive bike doesnt have them either.

The clearance thing is spot on though. For one the spicer has a long wheel base for heel clearance from panniers, and toe clearance with guards.

Thanks for all the tips re an audax bike. I've decided (for the time being!) to go with a Van Nic Yukon. which I'll build up with my current 105 group set and some new open pro wheels. The Yukon can take 25mm tyres with guards and has mounts for rack and fenders. I only wish it could take 28mm with guards though.

Ah yep. Just wanted to distinguish between the usual settling and re-true and those more serious issues. At least they weren't beyond repair.

If a wheel is built properly there shouldn't be any 'settling in' period. They should start true and stay true, and if they don't then they were built with uneven spoke tension and/or not stress relieved properly.

yeah. Scherrit is building my wheels from now on. If he ever has time! :)

crikey - just saw this on CRC - if anyone is looking for a frame you could do a lot worse than BB30 and full carbon frame/fork for £500

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=59254

Defintely, even OTP wheels shouldn't required truing straight away or even after a couple of months, if it does, then it's still perfectly normal to true it a bit.

My Tiagra/Open Sport wheelset (machine trued) were still perfectly trued since I got them back in July.

Just not to the point of almost redishing the wheel again to make up for the poor attempt.

Factory wheels are most often sold under the assumption that they will need a tweak after a while. Handbuilt wheels can do. But its a question of a little truing to further even tension after some real would de-stressing. The more even the spoke tension at the start, the less likely this will be.

As my road wheels have internal nipples, and carbon rims. I was mega careful to tension them, slowly, and evenly.

Not to brag or anything, but I didn't have to true or adjust my last set of wheels. Admittedly I did spend longer on them than I usually would to make full use of my tensionometer.

writes note to self to check wheels are actually true

I used revolutions on the non-disc side of my 29er wheels. The first ride was a proper pling party. Had to give them some proper TLC after.

They have less than half the torsional stiffness of proper spokes, really hard to feel when you've taken out all the wind-up when building.

They have less than half the torsional stiffness of proper spokes, really hard to feel when you've taken out all the wind-up when building.

I used a pair of pliers with tape over the jaws. To hold the spoke while tensioning. Still caused, and then left, a massive amount of wind up.

Built a set of lightish wheels for the fixed, with a similar gauge Pillar spoke, with no issues though.

Getting some super comps for the fatbike wheels. Best spokes I've used for disc braked wheels.

All my disc braked wheels have Alpine III

The CXP33 / Dura-Ace / DT Revolution wheels I built didn't make a single ping, and they're still straight. I used flags on the spokes to check how bad the twist was but it was fine. Tightened up to 130 kgf no problem.