BMC - tickling your fancy?

Any bike with a car branding tie-in is an automatic fail.

*especially a Swiss bike with an Italian car brand owned by a German manufacturer. At least as wank as Colnago/Ferrari style mash ups are they can claim to be similarly aligned brands.

Any bike with a car branding tie-in is an automatic fail.

This is why I posted it here. Its not exactly anti, defo not porn. But interesting.

I'd like one with matt black lugs and decals, and gloss black tubes. Not quite murdered out.

Don't get me wrong, I love the frame itself.

I was toying with the idea of holding out for their release when I started on my carbon, vanity road bike build. Was kidding myself that I'd be able to afford one though and the current range of frames' geometries don't suit me, so I figured even if money wasn't an issue, fit may be.

I am in love with the new GF01, longer wheelbase, longer headtube, low trial rack fork, clearance for bigger tyres, almost as if it's made for me.

pity it's carbon;

Re: Sandancer

Arent they fully custom. Made by obedient robots to order?

I'm just infatuated with my BMC, now that summers arrived, and I've sorted the indexing. Wednesday I was weaving in and out of potholes, when I came to a smooth stretch of road. Only to find myself missing the fun of the pot holes. The bike is so well balanced.

I am in love with the new GF01, longer wheelbase, longer headtube, low trial rack fork, clearance for bigger tyres, almost as if it's made for me.

pity it's carbon;

Best material for it.

Not a fan though. Just looks too long.

I'm a retro grouch, I like my material to keep it's stiffness for decades (despite the irony that I never kept my bike for more than a year).

How long is that frame meant to be used for the purpose it's been designed to fulfil Ed?

I thought they were releasing them as a production model and assumed that they were just being slow about it. I thought they (as well as Time) had them made not with obedient robots, but by women (insert sexist joke here). Something to do with them being better at hand weaving the carbon strands.

http://www.bikerumor.com/2010/07/16/up-close-and-personal-with-the-new-bmc-impec-now-with-more-robots/

It annoys me a lot that the seatpost isnt black, on the one with red lugs.

How long is that frame meant to be used for the purpose it's been designed to fulfil Ed?

In theory, till I'm unable to ride it at the ripe old age.

In practice, not so much.

Awesome. I'm afraid to look into the cost of one.

http://www.lfgss.com/picture.php?albumid=2029&pictureid=13293
My fancy is tickled at long last !!!!!

Many thanks Pistoffski

Serious looking^

My new riding buddy has a RoadRacer of the same year as my RaceMachine. Also with choice lighweight parts, and Campag drivechain. We both agree the solidity, and handling at speed is the addictive part.

Have a series of fun long rides planned :)

Serious looking^

My new riding buddy has a RoadRacer of the same year as my RaceMachine. Also with choice lighweight parts, and Campag drivechain. We both agree the solidity, and handling at speed is the addictive part.

Have a series of fun long rides planned :)

Thanks - but not a Roadracer a Team, the ck hubs are addictive !

Thanks - but not a Roadracer a Team, the ck hubs are addictive !

Misleading post. Saw it was a team of course.

I love noisey hubs. My Tune hubs click like mad, which I was'nt expecting. Means whe you're riding behind someone, and get so comfy on their wheel, you can freewheel a bit. That clicking alerts them to you taking a break.

I like the all black build. The frame is interesting looking enough. Without colour.

Does anyone have any tips or suggestions for cleaning the matt finish ?

Plus does anyone know the torque settings for the double seat clamp bolts?

Thanks in advance.

BMC suggests that you first torque the lower bolt to 8Nm, followed by the upper bolt to 5Nm. Once you bring the upper bolt to 5Nm, re-tension the lower bolt up to 8Nm to regain the torque lost due to equalizing the pressure distribution on the clamp.

BMC suggests that you first torque the lower bolt to 8Nm, followed by the upper bolt to 5Nm. Once you bring the upper bolt to 5Nm, re-tension the lower bolt up to 8Nm to regain the torque lost due to equalizing the pressure distribution on the clamp.

Yep.... I found that suggestion and tried following it - set the torque wrench, rechecked, looked a bit doubtfully at the lower bolt and thought, well if it says it can really cope with 8Nm, who am I to question this - ping - the allen head sheared off nowhere even close to 8Nm, possibly a faulty bolt, but doubt it. Fortunately I have a very good pair of small mole grips and the bolt came out nicely, albeit I was a little traumatised.

Is there anyone who has done it themselves ?

This may seemed like a stupid question, but is there's enough carbon paste in the seatpost?

good question, but no idea & without internal dims for what it should be, will be v difficult to determine. Will use common sense solution : i.e. do it up to no more than 5Nm and see if that holds !

the carbon paste is necessary to provide grip (beside the obvious), some of the BMC seatpost we have tend to slip even on the recommended torque, a quick dose of carbon paste held it like a boss.

My post is holding rock steady with a) plenty of carbon assembly paste and b) 3.8 Nm.

I am aware that it's not a BMC, but it is an illustration that you can use a lower torque value than you might think.

Precisely my point, always use carbon paste when it come to carbon component.

I have sheet of silicon screen protector wrapped around the post, half a litre of assembly paste on the tube, and dollop of anti-sieze on the quill mechanism.

Dosent move or squeak.

Different post set-up though.

Put assembly paste on all the things.