Any question answered...

Sorry, I assumed you were Polish on account of your username and avatar.

.

Meh, if any of my bikes has a back brake then they're on the left hand because habit, my polo bike has left front brake because mallet and my fixed has left front brake because that's the lever I had, never caused any real life issues. Only time it's weird is when I'm fixing someone else's bike that's cabled forrun and I keep pulling the front brake and looking at the rear or visa versa.

Should doesn't mean must and it's just an advisory...

Either way you'll just need to live with that tangled mess or learn how to brake and have better cabling.

Maybe someone here could help me, i'm currently running 47x18 which is 70.5 gear ratio on a steamroller (398mm chainstay) with a half link. What i want to achieve is to lose the half link and move rear wheel axle a tiny bit forward as its currently at the very end of the dropouts. And the question is what cog/chainring i should use to keep the gear ratio same or eventually slightly smaller?

45/18 will be the same axle position with half a link taken out, 46/18 will move the wheel another ⅛" forward. All rough numbers, but close enough that chain wear is bigger than the error. If you want to calculate other options, go to http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/chain_length/chainlengthcalc.html

Thanks for your quick reply, will try 46x18.

there is actually no rational optimum solution

Being able to use the front brake while signalling a right turn, sounds pretty rational to me.

As does improved braking (and shifting) performance: cable routing isn't just an aesthetic consideration.

People manage to swap between road/MTB, Shimano/SRAM/Campag and fixed/freewheel etc without bursting into flames and plenty have motorbikes and cars as well as bikes.

You can teach an old dog new tricks! ;)

Right, but there are also compelling counter-arguments for the front brake being on the right: if you're signalling a right turn you're turning across traffic, and so you may need to stop with one hand off the bars; having your read brake on the left means you're less likely to go over the bars if you mistakenly grab a fistful of brake. There's also the argument that it's better to have the more powerful brake controlled with your dominant hand to help power and modulation.

And you can absolutely learn to use switched brakes, but the paranoid argument is that under stress we often revert back to the first learned behaviour, which might be suboptimal. Like I said, it's an issue on which people can go back and forth forever without getting a result:)

there are also compelling counter-arguments for the front brake being on the right

I'm listening.

having your read brake on the left means you're less likely to go over the bars if you mistakenly grab a fistful of brake

Which brake is doing the stopping, is not the determining factor in whether you go over the handlebars or not: it's the rate of deceleration and your grip on the bike. The only reason you're less likely to eat tarmac when using the rear, is because the braking is less efficient (ie you slow more slowly). In an emergency I want to stop in the least time and distance.

And I can't think of a situation in which you're turning one-handed across traffic and have to preform an emergency stop, in which cycle training (rather than which brake you use) wouldn't produce a better outcome.

There's also the argument that it's better to have the more powerful brake controlled with your dominant hand to help power and modulation.

If one hand is so much stronger than the other that your ability to operate a brake lever is compromised, then I recommend wanking with the other for an extended period. This advice applies to a variety of situations.

the paranoid argument is that under stress we often revert back to the first learned behaviour

Well given that people tend to shit themselves when stressed, you might have something there...

What I wrote to the OP was a "how I", not a "how to" and I explained my reasoning: it's up to anyone reading it to use their own judgement as to whether they follow it.

Which brake is doing the stopping, is not the determining factor in whether you go over the handlebars or not

Yes it is. It's spectacularly difficult to do an endo just by using the rear brake, because as soon as the rear wheel comes off the ground you're not braking any more and there is nothing driving the endo. In fact, it is so difficult that actually achieving it falls within the field of trick cycling, and if you can do it by using the rear brake then you can do without using any brake at all.

You don't need to do an endo to go over the handlebars: stop quickly enough, from fast enough and your own weight will throw you over.

Particularly if you only have one hand on the bars.

Where's that bald men comb gif when I need it?

stop quickly enough, from fast enough and your own weight will throw you over.

You can't stop quickly enough from fast enough using just the rear brake, unless you're engaged in some sort of trick cycling. Even if you make no effort to restrain yourself, the product of acceleration and time available from rear braking only isn't enough to lift you off the saddle and over the bars. If you have a well lubricated saddle, ride no handed and have a broom handle shoved through the rear wheel without warning, you're going testicles* first into the stem and probably won't carry over the bars unless the reason for riding no handed was that you are clutching a case of beer to your chest and insist on holding on to it as you pivot forwards.

*or whatever you keep in your trousers to suit your genitalway.

I love this forum.

BORING COMPUTER TECHNICAL PROBLEM AHEAD - FEEL FREE TO STOP READING NOW.

I have a hard drive that I keep all my audio related work on, but certain applications, for reasons I cannot fathom, don't see all the folders on it. Can anyone help? It's resulting in me not being able to get some important work done!

This is what the drive looks like in Explorer:
https://imgur.com/dzEDhL6

But this is what Kontakt sees:
https://imgur.com/a/lI8QT

Which is the same as what Reaper's Media Explorer sees:
https://imgur.com/a/AeKu7

What's going on here? Why is it certain applications can't see certain folders? Folders I really need them to see!

Is this a new 'thing' or has it always been your experience? I've not had similar things with folders but there are certain file types that are usually invisible on certain applications - could be there's an option in Kontakt/Reaper that stipulates what is visible or not?

I've half a bolt stuck in a brake boss hole, cos pissweak ALU bolt was pissweak and sheared. Wanted to cover it as I went to disc brakes.

A screw remover only resulted in a stuck bolt with a big hole in it...

All we can think of at home is to get tiny metal brushes for the Dremel and sand it out, any other ideas? Caustic soda is out as the frame is aluminium..

What's going on here?

Something something something permissions

If the OS thinks Explorer is being run by an Authenticated User or the System but Kontakt/Reaper are only being run by a User, then there may be differences between the permissions for the invisible folders. Worth inspecting anyway as it's quick and easy to make sure that all the folders on H: have the same permissions, if they do then you have a different problem but if they don't then you can change the permissions on the invisible folders to match the ones on the visible folders and see if that fixes it.

1 Attachment

Will a bigger tyre on the front of a rigid 26" mtb make a big difference to handling?
Planning on running slicks, 2.3 up front and 2.0/2.15 in the rear - will have a rack up front as well, if that makes a difference.

Will a bigger tyre on the front of a rigid 26" mtb make a big difference to handling?

No.

I'm thinking of going A-head on my 1" steel road build. What's the best / lightest ahead adaptor, and is there a high quality, lightweight stem with a 26mm bar clamp, or will I have to change my bars as well?

I'm thinking of going A-head on my 1" steel road build

Why? While AHead is undoubtedly a better system than quill, it's not better enough to justify changing unless what you already have is actually broken, and by that I mean your fork is broken and you have to buy a new one. Sticking an adapter into your bike just gets you the worst of both worlds.

I concede, post edited.

Maths I can handle, but humour...

Can anyone unprotect the CTT entry form so I can edit it in Word Online? Or better yet, share a Google Doc version that doesn't look like it exploded.

https://www.cyclingtimetrials.org.uk/documents/index/riders