Any question answered...

Is there a thread to discuss the relative merits of pedal/cleat systems?

This thread seems the most popular of the million or so "Which pedals?" threads.

Someone posted a link to SuperSixs going for £899 in the which road bike thread.

Not evos mind, but seems fair.

Where is the best place to buy Trappist Belgian Beer in town or online?

online > http://www.beersofeurope.co.uk/

Ace, thanks!

Compact or standard? I've got ultegra rings of that era, barley used, standard.

Am an old man with fucked knees, compact chainset

Some vandals got into our car park and trashed my hike and my girlfriend's. Her rear wheel is buggered, as are my cranks - they seem bent, or the BB is, and the chainring.

It's a hybrid Genesis Smithfield with these cranks: http://www.driveline.com.tw/_en/product_detail.php?id=66

It says 46mm chainline. Is there something mid-range nice I can replace it with? Maybe a SRAM road crankset with external BB that I can run as a single? It's a 42t and I'd like to keep close to that.

It says 46mm chainline

It's 46mm with a 116mm BB. With any luck, Genesis put it together with a narrower axle to match the 42mm chainline of the Alfine hub. The 'correct' chainset with the Alfine is Shimano FC-S501.

Thanks Tester, you're a gent. I'll pick one up from Evans tomorrow and try to price match that website (worth a go...)

whats the general height of the clamping bit of a stem on the steerer? 5cm?
or more specific, the height of a syntace 26.0mm stem...? dunno know the model.

trying to work out if a fork has enough length despite not having stem here to measure.

cheers,

ruud

whats the general height of the clamping bit of a stem on the steerer? 5cm?

40mm is typical, some are 44mm, a couple are 38mm (including Syntace F99 and F139) and I think there might be a 35mm stack height road stem.

tester delivers. many thanks.

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My rear wheel keeps creeping forward on my conversion despite some serious effort in tightening the track nuts and the use of a twin-screw chaintug like in the picture. Part of the problem is that the screws on the chaintug sit either side of the rounded end of the dropout so they get bent and splayed out as the wheel creeps forward (#imthatpowerful).

Questions:
Does anyone know of a different chaintug that would work?
Would it be safe to file the back of the dropout flat to give the screws more purchase like in the picture? They're cheap stamped dropouts, like the ones in the picture.

2 Attachments

Any paint left on the drop out? Blast it off, then rough the surface up. Checked the clamping surfaces on the axle? Sounds like you have far too little purchase going on.

Thanks @Howard I'll try that. I've only got a chaintug on the drive-side, which essentially acts as a big washer between the track-nut and the frame. Any way of increasing the purchase of the chain-tug on the frame?

Shot blast it, failing that, scratch the shit out of it.

I'm almost tempted to counterbore it on the inside and add a star washer to sit between it and the frame. Bad idea?

Doesn't sound too crazy, no. #iamnotanengineertho

I'd be weary of filing of that much (as your picture), but why not drill screw sized holes, just a mm or two, enough to stop the tug bolts from splaying?

Also didn't someone make a tug for forward facing drop outs for exactly that reason? Have a search on here and start about four years ago...

Found this:
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/133546/#comment9328078
And this
http://www.lfgss.com/conversations/129551/?offset=25
But there's more...

They're cheap stamped dropouts, like the ones in the picture.

There's your trouble. The surface on the rolled plate from which they are cut is too hard, and always causes the problem you're having. Best to get a new frame with decent cast or forged track ends, it's the easiest solution in the long run.

By the way have you tried without the tugs? I've never really had a problem without.

Error

Hello. Could someone help me to find this (pic) but way more longer? (Something like it but 2 time longer).
Thanks.