Any question answered...

How much do you weigh?
A lady never tells.

Yes, you can use the pavement Westbound all the way between Chelsea Bridge and Lots Road.

Look for the little blue "pedestrians and cycles" sign here:-

http://goo.gl/maps/i5QOX
http://goo.gl/maps/K2z6d
http://goo.gl/maps/vJ6tu

as that means it's shared use (and pedestrians have priority).

And I went all this time thinking "impatient knobs" to all the pavement riders. Turns out I'm the knob.
I'm the knob too.

I had no idea that the footway was shared use along there.

I think more cyclists would use it if it wasn't such a juddery experience. That's the only reason I usually avoid it. When the traffic is bad though it does save time!

Don't feel a thing with 35mm Marathon Pluses. Although it might help if they had more than 10psi in them right now.

so i keep having a dangerous situation happen a few times to me and it stumped me why though.

Middle of accelerating traffic, a few feet out of the saddle, my chain has come off suddenly.

It is under tension so it should not come off as the chain ring teeth should hold it in place.

Is there a reason my chain keeps coming off? How do i prevent it from happening again. #Myballshurttomuch - this time i landed on the toptube as a white van was tailgating me.

Its a single speed 29er with a guard on outside of the chain ring.

Worn out chain or ring? Correct chainline?

It could be: Worn chain, worn chainring, wonky chainline, fat arms, dodgy sprocket...

Too Much Awesome Power (TMAP).

(It can't be worn-out parts as Iain usually destroys them long before they ever get a chance to become worn out.)

Probably fat arms then.

Chains skip when they are worn. Depending on what is worn the most (chainring, sprocket, chain) you may need to replace all three.

http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html (and scroll down to the "Chain and sprocket wear" section for pictures and explanations).

My chain is skipping like a bastard at the moment, I think my bike knows that the replacement transmission (chainset, chain, cassette) is somewhere in Germany (Hagen according to the online shipment tracker) on its way from Rose Bikes.

Take a photo of your drivetrain so we can internet diagnosis.

Take a photo of your naked torso so we can internet diagnosis.
?

cant be worn... Worn means having actually ridden the damn thing. The bike is only a few months old.

Came assembled. So chainline shouldnt be wrong.

Check chainline.
Also are you sure it's the chain slipping and not the freewheel failing? In my experience these two feel quite the same.

stiff/bent chain link?

If it aint worn, it must either be chainline, or slack chain. Your pedalling might not be smooth enough to be keeping the chain in tension throughout a full revolution so a slack chain would give it a chance to pop off in that instance.

slack chain shouldnt matter, as its under tension as im accelerating with the traffic.

all good ideas, i will investigate.

I guess i need to go study the bastard....

I'm looking for a cheap 700c fork for Polo.
Canti mounts, 1 1/8" Ahead, about 420-440mm A-C. (rather 440)
Any ideas?

I'm looking for a cheap 700c fork for Polo.
Canti mounts, 1 1/8" Ahead, about 420-440mm A-C. (rather 440)
Any ideas?

700c CX fork is normally <400mm A-C 29er fork is normally >460mm A-C

(Kinesis CX forks are all 405mm)

If you got an On-One "5-piece" rigid fork, 26er(440mm) disc-only, you might be able to find clamp-on canti bosses to match the fork legs' diameter.

Or just HTFU and get a disc brake.

What frame are you using?

I don't know of any 29er/700c frames that would give good polo handling on a 440mm fork...

26er Inbred with an Onza 395mm fork gives ok handling, the front end becomes almost twitchy enough to compensate for the epic wheelbase. You could fit 700cs in that... but you wouldn't, and you'd still be better off with a disc brake.

TLDR: GET A DISC BRAKE

Cable:
Avid BB5, ex display, no lever £31: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/avid-bb7-mechanical-disc-brake-ex-display/rp-prod107104

Hydro:
Clark Skeletal, front, left lever £25: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/clarks-exo-skeletal-hydraulic-disc-brake/rp-prod80605
Shimano Deore M615 front, left lever £34: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-deore-m615-disc-brake/rp-prod108802

If you don't mind second hand, I've had great results with Deore M615s off ebay on a MTB, and I know Snottyotter and Voidcore both use Shimano hydros with the pivotted lever.

I'm using a cheap old 29er trekking/mtb alu frame that came with a huge suspension fork.
I slapped a 400mm A-C fork on there and have super twitchy handling now, as well as pedal strike because of the lowered BB. Also the seattube angle got quite ridiculous. I'd like to try and slacken things up a bit without spending too much money.

Proper polo frame & disc brake are coming later.

Edit:
Disc brakes wouldn't be so bad, but I'd need a front wheel, a fork and a disc brake with a right hand lever (lefty here), which alltogether hurts my budget a lot...

I think to run 700C in a 440mm fork you're either switching to disc brakes or using clamp-on bosses. People have used clamp-on bosses for polo, but they're not cheap.

Can you find a cheap 29er front wheel? The wider rim should give you less sidewall flex when turning.

Right-hand front is easy to find, buy from the UK ;-)