Any question answered...

Likely one for Tester.

Will the Dura ace 9000 BB work with 5700 cranks. If so, is it actually worth the additional £11 cash that it costs compared to the 5700 BB on the Merlin website.

Seat posts, does carbon actually make a difference to comfort? I currently have a layback carbon post, with the seat almost all the way forward to acheive required position relative to cranks, I also have an aluminium inline one which would achieve a more pleasing atheistic but I'm loathe to lose comfort on my training bike, I guess the answer is I should try the both out and try to make my own judgement...

If not what's the forum recommended 31.6 carbon inline seatpost?

Will the Dura ace 9000 BB work with 5700 cranks. If so, is it actually worth the additional £11 cash that it costs compared to the 5700 BB on the Merlin website.

1. Yes
   
2. No (unless you're a weight weenie, in which case it's pretty good value in £spent:gram-saved)
   
   

In a classic Shimano dick move, they have changed the BB cup tool interface for 9000 & 6800 (and presumably 5800 will follow). The TL-FC24 plastic adapter is obviously up to the task of installation, but it's an open question whether it will survive removal of the cups at the end of their life, assuming you haven't lost it in the mean time. Also, if you can't fit a proper socket type tool to the adapter, you have to guess the installation torque rather than using a socket attached to your big torque wrench.

The TL-FC34 which you're going to have to buy is £22.49, presumably there will be Park etc. versions in the fullness of time.

Seat posts, does carbon actually make a difference to comfort?

Potentially, since it's possible to make a strong enough seat post from carbon fibre which is less stiff than a strong enough aluminium one. This also applies to CrMo and Ti posts, aluminium is a shit choice for making springs :-)

If you want a lot of twang, it's worth considering a skinny post with a shim, since the same amount of material strain on a thinner tube will yield a greater deflection.

Thanks.

Since most hub manufacturers use proprietary freehubs, you'd have to hope that a manufacturer who makes your 150mm hub also makes a 135mm SS hub with the same freehub interface, at which point you might as well just buy the 135mm hub :-) That would certainly save the trouble of making a 135×10 axle to fit a 150×12 hub.

Yes, I'd Hope (ba dub tish)... but they're not cheap and I was hoping for nice wide wheelbuild based on a niche (low demand, low competiton on ebay) hub.

Plan would be a 142x12 rather than 135x10(5mm qr).

The easy option is a DMR Revolver disc SS hub, but wide-foot cassette sprockets are cheaper to keep as options and are less risky to change than a standard 24x1.37 freewheel.

Do you haz 142×12 SS frame?

I've got a GT LTS 5 whose pivots will be the mountpoints for a rear end which will take a 3.8mm tyre, a 56mm (big ring) chainline and a 135/142mm hub.

Future tense as I took delivery of the frame on Friday and did most of the measuring tonight.

Ok, now I'm tring to imagine the chainline of a 150mm rear hub and whether 56mm is wide enough to do 1x10 without hitting the knobbles...

Should have looked for a frame with an 83mm bb I guess.

Shoulda gone to polo and measured another day.

Wouldn't have got there for a decent time and I still have those Onza squeal-vees on.

Should have watched a film earlier and stopped thinking... Alarms set for 5:15 and 5:20.

Sounds disgusting.

Are there any technical objections against running a steel fork in an aluminum frame? If the A-C height is okay and the crown size fits?

No, only aesthetic ones:

Cross post from the android thread....

Does anyone have any good suggestions for tough protective cases for a Nexus 7?

I also like the magnetic sleep/awake feature on my standard case.

Does anyone know any reasonably cheap frames with the following specs:

• 120mm rear drop out spacing, track dropouts
  
• 400mm A-C on Fork, 1 1/8" steerer
  
• slightly "relaxed" geometry, high stack, low reach
  
• should be suitable to be ridden fixed
  
• should take fat tires (35+ something?)
  

Pompino?

Pompino?

Would fit the bill, but I didn't find any stack&reach measurements...

Would fit the bill, but I didn't find any stack&reach measurements...

Use this calculator: http://bb2stem.blogspot.ca/

right size frame, seatpost, saddle position, stem and bars and you can make the bike fit just about however you want.

Anyone knows how/if it's possible to remove PX decals from their frameset? Talking about the old style decals, dunno if that makes a difference.

is there anyone out there who collects crappy-but-serviceable bike bits? I mean all those crafty types that make belts out of old tyres, clocks out of chainrings etc. I need to get rid of stuff prior to moving house and I can't bear to throw this stuff away but it's not worth anything and I'm never going to use it. anyone want a pair of old wheels, two dried up 5-speed blocks and a bunch of tyres?
what does the forum do? straight in the bin?

if you've got a spare tub rim going, I'll take it...
/start of unhelpful potential dibssings.

oh I did... where did that go...

I think to Clara. although she only took them from me as a favour (old french-threaded set) so she may still have them.