Any question answered...

How are you going to compress the headset?

If you can't do that, how do you mount a steam? I use the Ahead system on a threaded fork and wish to change fork and headset to threadless. I thought I would get the normal Ahead Adapter so I can mount the headset. If that doesn't work, how am I supposed to mount a headset?

(never had one of those newer headsets in my hand)

Can I run a 1inch thread less fork and headset with a 22.2 quill stem?

Yes.

Why does it require such a gash adaptor?

So you can go back to a threadless set-up after you've learnt the error of your way.

Since I wish to replace my threaded fork by a threadless, what does it normally look like when replaced on a 1" fork? How am I supposed to mount a newer type of stem?

Why does it require such a gash adaptor?

You need to have something to clamp onto the threadless steerer in order to maintain the headset adjustment. I doesn't have to be quite that gash, but the total of clamp+spacers needs to be about 50mm high to leave room for the AHead stem which, as Scoble rightly points out, you'll buy shortly after seeing what a dumb idea it is to use a retro stem when you don't need to.

Also worth bearing in mind that threadless 1" forks won't necessarily be 22.2mm bore, that size was fairly arbitrarily arrived at from subtracting a reasonable wall thickness after cutting threads from the 1" OD steel tube. If there aren't going to be threads, a steel tube could be made a bit thinner walled (although it probably won't be), but aluminium or carbon tubes will certainly have thicker walls, so you won't be able to get a 22.2mm quill into them at all.

what does it normally look like when replaced on a 1" fork? How am I supposed to mount a newer type of stem?

You use a 1⅛" stem with a shim to fit over the 1" steerer.

You need to have something to clamp onto the threadless steerer in order to maintain the headset adjustment. I doesn't have to be quite that gash, but the total of clamp+spacers needs to be about 50mm high to leave room for the AHead stem which, as Scoble rightly points out, you'll buy shortly after seeing what a dumb idea it is to use a retro stem when you don't need to.

Also worth bearing in mind that threadless 1" forks won't necessarily be 22.2mm bore, that size was fairly arbitrarily arrived at from subtracting a reasonable wall thickness after cutting threads from the 1" OD steel tube. If there aren't going to be threads, a steel tube could be made a bit thinner walled (although it probably won't be), but aluminium or carbon tubes will certainly have thicker walls, so you won't be able to get a 22.2mm quill into them at all.

Hi Tester,

Thanks for this info. I've got some 1inch threadless forks which I want to replace some threaded forks.

If I were to go the threadless route with stem steup, wouldn't I need to shim the steerer of the stem from 1/18th to 1inch?

Or am I talking shite....

I'm talking about Thomson stem's here...

http://bikesandgirlsandmacsandstuff.tumblr.com/post/80759513591
What rack is this? I'm on mobile so cannot embed properly, sorry?

Dublin via holyhead. Cheers, will start scheduling regular sacrifices to the traffic god

Leave earlier.

If I were to go the threadless route with stem steup, wouldn't I need to shim the steerer of the stem from 1/18th to 1inch?

You can buy those shims.

Anyone had a news agency contact them re. permission to use pics on social media they want to punt to papers as a "news" story that then ends up in most of todays online tabloid press? (specifically the Range Rover pics from The Epic Fail thread)

I have an email saying I'll get 50% of what the pics make so have I been ripped off for money I never would have seen in the the first place?

My poor knowledge from my old urbex days, I fear you may have had to demand money up front.

You can buy those shims.

Hi Ed, how you mate?

Thomson shims convert 1/18th steerers to 1 inch?

You use a 1⅛" stem with a shim to fit over the 1" steerer.

Ahhh ok that makes sense.Thank you for the information.

1 1/8 to 1 steerer shim - Google Search

Ideally you want the shim the same length as your stems clamping area but I'd assume if you're using the thomson stem the thomson shim should fit.

Thomson shim is very expensive though.

Well I'm not using a thomson stem to begin with but I'll find a chrome one and if required, adjust the lenght of it.

Cheers.

Yes, it would be quite had to flip between fixed & ss without it.

You can fit a freewheel to a fixed-threaded hub.

I'm currently running a 8x3 gearing. I want to change to 8x2. I'm using friction down tube shifters. Can I run a 10 speed front mech or do i have to get a 8 speed specific? It's on a touring bike so the chainrings will be 48-34t

10 speed mech will be fine, the main difference is that you'll have to trim it slightly more often compare to the 8 speed one (which isn't much).

10 speed mech should be fine. Just adjust the stops so it swings the correct amout required. Tidy.

What Ed said ^

Is Briggy still operating his bike shack? And if so, is it still on Lower Marsh or was he eventually forced to move?