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• #51253
I'm currently in a dialogue with my new landlord about some kitchen repairs. 2.5 weeks after my original email I got this response:
If you know how to get hold of some replacement drawers or someone to come and fix the cupboard door we would be happy to pay for it.
Is this OK? My reading of the tenancy agreement is that repairs are the responsibility of the landlord. To me that includes arranging as well as paying for them. Is it worth forcing the issue?
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• #51254
I'm currently in a dialogue with my new landlord about some kitchen repairs. 2.5 weeks after my original email I got this response:
Is this OK? My reading of the tenancy agreement is that repairs are the responsibility of the landlord. To me that includes arranging as well as paying for them. Is it worth forcing the issue?
Aside from the delay I would think that's quite a decent response really, as it gives you free reign... However if you're unhappy having to sort it yourself then you should say.
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• #51255
point out that he is a lazy cock and should get on with fulfilling his obligations.
unhappy having to sort it yourself then you should say.
It confuses me because in the past he's sent round his mate who is a handyman to sort things out, so I'm wondering why he hasn't suggested that this time. To be honest I'd prefer to order some shit from IKEA and put it together myself - maybe that's the best thing to do.
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• #51256
When driving sometimes the car behind is too close. What is the best way of letting them pass you?
If somebody is tailgating me, I just keep gently slowing down until either the speed is appropriate for the distance they are behind me or they get the message and back off.
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• #51257
When driving sometimes the car behind is too close. What is the best way of letting them pass you?
Any passing move is their responsibility.
If a car (or any vehicle) is too close to you then slow down- the reason to do this is that if you have to brake in an emergency you will need much more room to slow so that the person behind you does not hit you.
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• #51258
On a motorway or dual carriage way I tend to let the pass when I get a clear opportunity...
On a single carriage way depending on my mood I would just carry on as I am, maybe drive deliberately slowly.
Don't feel pressured to get out of their way, that is doing it wrong.
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• #51259
Question time...
What's the deal with running a threaded headset without the lock nut? Found some replacement forks for the nevatronsinglespeedshopperofdeath but they are about 7mm short on the steerer. Could I get away with running without top nut? Maybe loctite?
Also, anyone know where I can get an mpart 1" quill headset to ahead converter kit for another project? found them on google t'other day but struggling to find them now.
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• #51260
"When driving sometimes the car behind is too close. What is the best way of letting them pass you?"
Forget about that. Buckle up*, cross your fingers and slam the brakes... Gets them every time.
*No euph intended.
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• #51261
Could I get away with running without top nut?
No. The locknut isn't just to prevent unscrewing, it also removes the thread backlash. Loctite won't do that.
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• #51262
What's the thread backlash?
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• #51263
The clearance between a male and female thread allows a nut to move up and down a bolt a small distance without rotating. That's backlash. On a normal threaded fixing, the bolt tension deals with it, but a headset is a lightly preloaded thread, so you can't get rid of the backlash by just tightening one nut (i.e. upper cup) because making it tight enough to eliminate backlash would lock up the bearing.
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• #51264
Why do people say that you can use a Chris King locknut without the top nut?
Might have to order one of those Tange low stack headsets...
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• #51265
"What's the threat, whiplash?"
Anything between mild whiplash and instant death... Perfectly legal though under these circumstances.
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• #51266
If I was to go and buy a laptop tomorrow for £350-400 what is the most important thing to ensure it has. I don't particularly want to leave with whatever the bloke in PC World wants be rid of.
Doesn't need to do anything too special, the most strenuous thing it might possibly have to run is SketchUp.
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• #51267
Might have to order one of those Tange low stack headsets...
Or a conversion kit to GripNut, if you already have a Chris King 2-Nut headset. GripNut works on steerers up to 4mm too short for a 2-Nut
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• #51268
Ah I see, no I don't have Chris King, just didn't know what the difference was between grip nut and lock nut and other branded headsets.
As usual, Tester to the rescue. thanks.
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• #51269
Forget about that. Buckle up*, cross your fingers and slam the brakes... Gets them every time.
*No euph intended.
Make sure you brake really hard, or, slam it into 2nd as you put on your handbrake so your brake lights don't come on.
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• #51270
What's the thread backlash?
When a noob spams every wanted thread with his overpriced second hand frame and somebody points it out in the mods thread in the hope of creating some Sunday afternoon popcorn.
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• #51271
Nah no popcorn, just annoying him bumping all those ads with copy and pasted bollocks.
While you're here, any idea on a decent m:part stockist? can only find those headset "a:dapters" in 1 1/8th and reet could do with an inch one.
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• #51272
The world is full of cunts. Cunts tailgate at all times regardless of the speed they want to go.
Deal with it.
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• #51273
Popping the rear fog lights on does scare the shit out of some of them though
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• #51275
I'm looking for this, to convert a shimano threaded headset to threadless....
Can only find 1 1/8th in stock, but I know that 1 inch exist...
I tried searching, but given the amount of times people say 'njs' on here, I thought it easier to just post here. Has anyone bought their njs frames from NJS Exports and shipped to the UK? And if so, what are the customs charges like?