Any question answered...

Do you recall if it started with SB?

No, t'was either C4000?? or CB4000?? I think. Technium is popping up in google a bit but cant find an exact match yet.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/GroteFoto-JTFLR7TD.jpg

All the technium and dynatech stuff seems to point to alu lugs not steel, and a wishbone seatstay. Although maybe that's American stuff?

American and British Raleighs are dif. I dunno about the lugs though. I do think my Dyna-tech was Steel lugs + alu tubes, though? This is why they're a pain (imposibru) to repair.

Almost had to drill a chainring bolt out today, recommend me a good set which I can replace the existing ones with?

The ones that come with SRAM/Truvativ omniums are good as you use 2 Allen keys to fit, not some crap chainring bolt tool. I believe you can buy these separately.

They also do them for doubles
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001GSQO3W/

Do they come as standard on SRAM road/MTB kit now?

Bonza, both of you repped, and the bolts ordered.

Do they come as standard on SRAM road/MTB kit now?

All the Truvativ and Sram I've had have had that type of bolt.

I'm trying to replace the retention system on a catlike Kompact pro. The old one came off easily. .. Just pushed one of the two little plastic clips and the 'face' popped open like a little door.

The new one has 8 tiny clips running along the top and bottom. They don't seem to want to release. Am I doing something wrong or do I just need to try harder?

Urgh... Forget it. I'm a dipshit

Finishing installation of a Campag Record Aheadset. I tighten the top bolt to remove play but the steering binds up. If the bolt is loose enough to steer there is too much play. What to do?

All the technium and dynatech stuff seems to point to alu lugs not steel, and a wishbone seatstay. Although maybe that's American stuff?

is it steel lugs, ti maintubes?

Finishing installation of a Campag Record Aheadset. I tighten the top bolt to remove play but the steering binds up. If the bolt is loose enough to steer there is too much play. What to do?

Fit the headset properly. If you can't get it to turn freely with no perceptible play, it usually means you've not got it in straight, which in turn usually means your frame hasn't been faced straight.

I had the cups and crown put in by the LBS so hopefully they got 'em straight. The previous headset was OK too so I hope nothing suddenly needs facing.

I'm thinking I may have the bearing cages in wrong. The instructional diagrams/explanations are unclear to me. I'll check them now.

I just set my bike up in the stand and got a torch out to finally get to the bottom off my bottle cage screws..

my brazeons are threadless..? they look like alan key holes with a really small hole about 1cm into the mount going into the frame

Stick an M5 (or M4?) tap through the fuckers.

I'm thinking I may have the bearing cages in wrong. The instructional diagrams/explanations are unclear to me. I'll check them now.

Looks like balls down for the lower and balls up for the upper. Also there are some seals HS-RE006 you might be able to trap. The other thing to check is the clearance between the upper cover HS-HD003 and the upper cone HS-HD006. This varies depending on how much the collet on the upper cone has to compress to grip the steerer, and sometimes closes up completely when you tension the headset.

If the cover hits the upper cup, you can put a shim between the cover and the collet on most headsets, although I'm not sure from the diagram that this would work with Campag.

That is exactly the diagram I was looking for. Thanks so much.
Balls up on upper + balls down on lower is certainly the way it goes. It's impossible to get it together any other way actually.

Following your advice I checked if the LBS had put the crown race on straight. Low and behold it's not. I can slide a thin bit of metal in a gap one side and not the other. So this must be causing the binding when the pre-load is applied.

Thanks for the help. I'll take it back and see if they can sort it out. Don't fancy whacking it myself with out any tools.

Lo and behold

ftfy

Although given the probable etymology, it should be "lo' and behold"

What tools do I need to remove this?

Lockring tool will work for one, but does anyone know which tool would fit the other?

Replacement pads for an Avid BB5 road caliper avialble from where on a Sunday afternoon in London's famous London?

What tools do I need to remove this?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3154/2578690407_1baffe7bbd.jpg
Lockring tool will work for one, but does anyone know which tool would fit the other?

Pin spanner and a 32mm cup spanner. Wide adjustable would probably do it as well.

http://www.evanscycles.com/product_image/image/951/023/209/75268/product_page/cyclo-32mm-head-bottom-bracket-adjustable-cup-spanner.jpg

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/cyclo/32mm-head-bottom-bracket-adjustable-cup-spanner-ec038588

Replacement pads for an Avid BB5 road caliper avialble from where on a Sunday afternoon in London's famous London?

just posted this after your rant

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/index.php?cPath=21

not in LFL, but v cheap, so worth ordering some for future use

kevlar pads are a good halfway between sintered and organic