Any question answered...

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  • I'm trying to remove my BB, but first to do this I need to get the cranks off. It's this I'm having problems with. I can get both parts of the crank puller to thread into the cranks, but as soon as the actual 'rod' of the extractor hits the axle, it sticks. I've put all my strength into it (even resorted to putting the opposite crank on a step and using my legs) and it will not budge.

    Wut do?

  • Same puller as this:

  • Have you removed the bolts ?

  • find a youtube video on square taper crank removal

    have the pusher part retracted and make sure most of the threads on the crank puller are fully engaged or you could just strip the threads. it may require quite some force to pull the cranks off

    push the crank arm and tool downwards to use your weight on the tools (so have them started at ten to two position if you were looking at a clock face), be careful not to slip when the crank starts to move, or you can scissor your knuckles together

  • ^^Yes. -_-
    ^Done that, and tried that exact method. The problem isn't that I don't know how to do it. Just what normally would work isn't doing so, and I have run out of things to try...
    Also, the crank axle interface is kind of rusty coloured, not sure if it's actually rust or if it's just odd coloured grease.

  • Assuming it's set up correctly: moar leverage

  • Hmm, legs and pipes it is.

  • horatio method: Remove crank bolts, ride around the block a few times*... Cranks fall off...

    • Pref E&C roundabout
  • You can't argue with results.

  • It came off with a 1m length of pipe... It was definitely rust.

  • What is this registration plate?

  • Ah, got it- no zero's on a number plate.

    81AAO works.

    If anyone sees this chap, please give him a withering look.

  • give him a withering look.

    He's driving a Soarer, I imagine he gets that everywhere he goes.

  • He's a massive cunt, so I imagine he gets them without the car also.

  • He's driving a Soarer.

    He's a massive cunt.

    Tautology, surely?

  • I think it's an SC 430- the hardtop convertible that was renowned for being both heavy and torsionally weak?

    Ref tautology- yes.

  • The mystery sidis are Genius 4 Loricas.

  • https://www.dropbox.com/s/4z9cmk8ka9z6lof/2013-01-12%2016.02.05.jpg
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/96yl36d0old3tt3/2013-01-12%2016.02.13.jpg

    Anyone got an idea of what this bike is? It's a lugged MTB with a full exage groupset and silly flexi stem thing, so probably early 90's. Rear triangle, lugs and forks are steel, top and down tube are non magnetic. No decals or headbadge, only thing with a name on is the dynatech seatpost that's pretty well stuck in.

    Retrobike>>>>>>>>>>>

  • Sounds like it's a Raleigh Dynatech, to me.

  • Almost had to drill a chainring bolt out today, recommend me a good set which I can replace the existing ones with?

  • To be fair, also looks like it.

  • https://www.dropbox.com/s/4z9cmk8ka9z6lof/2013-01-12%2016.02.05.jpg
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/96yl36d0old3tt3/2013-01-12%2016.02.13.jpg

    Anyone got an idea of what this bike is? It's a lugged MTB with a full exage groupset and silly flexi stem thing, so probably early 90's. Rear triangle, lugs and forks are steel, top and down tube are non magnetic. No decals or headbadge, only thing with a name on is the dynatech seatpost that's pretty well stuck in.

    Retrobike>>>>>>>>>>>

    That stem is amazing, Em used to have one.

  • That was the first thing I googled, and found similar things but with Alu lugs and stuff, was wandering if someone recognised it as something different.

  • Check the serial number and compare.

  • Didn't match at work on my phone earlier, but that was between doing other stuff.

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Any question answered...

Posted by Avatar for carson @carson

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