Any question answered...

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  • Yes, now that they have gone to 10-speed at the back.

  • Cheers.

    It's a 9 speed decore XT front and rear. So they'll work with mtb shifters.

    The crankset is a decore triple.

    I was always going to use bar ends, so I never worried about the cable pull from the FD (plus figured I could change it if necessary).

  • Ha ha, you are here too!

    I have a shifter question aswell; What is the name of those shimano flat bar/mtb shifter & brake lever combo's where the brake lever acts as the shifter? An MTB version of a Brifter?

    I have seen them before on some OTP bikes, no idea what they are called.

  • I know.

    I saw some on completed listings a moment ago... dual control shifter I think...

  • 'lowprow' chuckles

    Good new word, I reckon.

    They're 'racing frames', though, Balki. It says so on the web-site. Somehow, none of them look drilled. Do you want to rock teh brakless?

    say lowprow with a little tiger growl and its all good.

    I am currently 'rocking' fixed with front and rear v-breaks, 100mm headset spacers, 38's and titec h-bars, so no, I shan't be rocking teh brainless anytime soon.

  • That's right... Breaks.

  • Recently installed Sram Force. Everything is hunky dory, but I left the chain too long. If I shorten the chain (PG 1051), do I need to use a Powerlock or similar chain connector?

    I once tried to join a Dura Ace hollowtech chain the old fashioned way, without the special pin, and ended up with a 6 mile walk home when it finally gave in.

    thanks

  • In general, Shimano chains need a special joining pin. Sram chains can be done the old fashioned way. I am not sure about modern 10 speed stuff though. I have never had more than 8 speed!

  • Why is everyone suddenly rebranding themselves on here???

    I'm scared of change :(

  • Recently installed Sram Force. Everything is hunky dory, but I left the chain too long. If I shorten the chain (PG 1051), do I need to use a Powerlock or similar chain connector?

    I once tried to join a Dura Ace hollowtech chain the old fashioned way, without the special pin, and ended up with a 6 mile walk home when it finally gave in.

    thanks

    I've generally used a KMC quick link thing with those chains, been fine.

  • Why is everyone suddenly rebranding themselves on here???

    I'm scared of change :(

    Probably because they're too lazy to enter longer usernames when they log in. That 'TM' fellow is just the latest. :)

  • I've generally used a KMC quick link thing with those chains, been fine.

    There's nothing quick about them. Damn things!

  • Has anybody got any suggestions for parking in Edinburgh this weekend?

  • I was going to buy these forks of this dude (why is he neg repped?) and he tells me he's filed them down so his Chris King crown race fits.
    Should I steer clear?

  • why is he neg repped?

    People don't like it when someone rips Bianchis.

  • Kris, buy the special tools and they are extremely quick.

    Right- any German speaker out there? The Google Translate version of this is quite exciting:

    Hello (additive: against decent bid goes away without the SRM crank!)
    Cannondale SRM crank offer
    consisting of left and right crank 175mm
    two chain rings 39 and 53 (or loose for the nächcsten 5000km)
    SRM crankset
    Charger SRM)
    USB Data Cable
    Two crank bolt with washer
    SRM software
    Power Control V
    with cable and Sensorkit for transmission of data and the speed
    two handlebar mount for 31.8mm handlebars made ​​of aluminum and synthetic material
    SRM crank and cardboard for display (not in the photos)
    age 6 years was in 2008 at SRM has been re-measured
    The cranks are also in a Good to Very good condition
    The set is in mint condition was always geflegt unfortunately in last 1 1/2 years no longer gefahre (health reasons) but was again driven the last few days and tested works 100% Guaranteed
    Cables are not prepared for easy and quick installation on the bottom bracket
    Ask questions,
    Meaningful pictures are more photos on request
    Manual get updated very often on the SRM website
    Warning: These cranks can be driven immediately! Other SRM systems here on Ebay, with no handle, must be sent only to the determination of the adjustment factor with the new crank for SRM and is associated with additional costs. This is indicated here at the crank not the case!
    The new system Powercontro 7 with i.nkl Taste SL cranks with SRM 2700 By the way
    and for the savings roll here on Ebay the cranks alone are still around 340th - € worth and the 600th - are actually still too little

    Could someone who is familiar with the language improve upon the Google version?

  • Has anybody got any suggestions for parking in Edinburgh this weekend?

    Where do you need to be? Are there any special events on? Where are you driving in from?

    You can usually park in Marchmont, and walk across the meadows into town.

  • Driving in from Nottingham, haven't really looked at a route yet. We're staying near the Radisson. Staying for three nights too so don't mind ditching the car somewhere since we won't be using it.

    We had heard about a park and ride that might be useful?

    Cheers

  • cross post from my project thread


    Bottom bracket arrived however I have a small problem,

    As you can see the left plastic cup sticks out about 15mm, the crank arms still go on and spin fine and it doesnt get in the way but obviously this isn't right i don't think

    After googling around i think its because the plastic cup i've been supplied with (bought 2nd hand) is actually for a 73mm shimano cartridge BB not a 68 like mine... does this sound right, will it cause problems?

    It fits snug but its sticking out a fair wad

  • Clean the threads with a wire brush and some WD40 and try again. Its stuck out more than 5mm isnt it? so even if its the wrong size it shouldn't be sticking out that much.

  • Does anyone know of some worldwide statistics for meth amphetamine use? I am particularly seeking to find out if it is more popular in the USA than any other country which it seems to be from how it is portrayed in the media.

  • Clean the threads with a wire brush and some WD40 and try again. Its stuck out more than 5mm isnt it? so even if its the wrong size it shouldn't be sticking out that much.

    well according to google a lot of peoples stick out 2-4mm so if mines 5mm too big and i didn't accurately measure it, it would be within that range,

    Ill give it a tougher clean but I did give it a good cleaning out beforehand

  • Hi Rogan.

    Sorry for the essay...

    Along with DFP's shout it's worth noting that with cartridge bottom brackets you should assemble them by installing the plastic ring/cup first. Then the main metal unit from the other side.

    Also it's not always the case that the plastic ring goes on the left non-drive side. Some BBs have it the other way.

    So dissassemble the BB check which way it should be orientated - there should a label - and then try again by placing the plastic ring in fully first in whichever side it should be.

    Finally not to patronise but to be thorough remember that left non drive side is the normal righty tighty / lefty loosy deal, but the drive side is the opposite and tightens anti - clockwise.

    If it is genuinely too long and for a biger BB shell you can always cut it down with a pipe cutter but remember to go back and forth along a single turn (360 deg) of the thread not round and round chasing it along or cutting straight across the plastic threads.

  • Hi Rogan.

    Sorry for the essay...

    Along with DFP's shout it's worth noting that with cartridge bottom brackets you should assemble them by installing the plastic ring/cup first. Then the main metal unit from the other side.

    Also it's not always the case that the plastic ring goes on the left non-drive side. Some BBs have it the other way.

    So dissassemble the BB check which way it should be orientated - there should a label - and then try again by placing the plastic ring in fully first in whichever side it should be.

    Finally not to patronise but to be thorough remember that left non drive side is the normal righty tighty / lefty loosy deal, but the drive side is the opposite and tightens anti - clockwise.

    If it is genuinely too long and for a biger BB shell you can always cut it down with a pipe cutter but remember to go back and forth along a single turn (360 deg) of the thread not round and round chasing it along or cutting straight across the plastic threads.

    Thanksjust taken it apart again to be sure, putting the plastic cup in first, its down to about a 12-13mm gap before even putting the actual BB its stuck at that 12-13 point, doesnt budge any further than that :/

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Any question answered...

Posted by Avatar for carson @carson

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