Any question answered...

cheers sumo

Stu F, do you know how to do it?

Is it not as simple as follows?

Apply a fresh layer of contact cement to the rim (2). Immediately fit the tire. Insert the valve. Pull the tire as firmly as possible, so that the final section of tire slips over the edge of the rim in an easy and controlled manner (4-7). Slightly inflate the tire and center its position. The edge of the protective tape serves as orientation (8). Inflate to approx. 9 Bar and push down on the whole of the tire’s circumference using your full bodyweight. Clean off any remnants of contact cement from the rim braking surface.

and then obviously leave to dry for a few hours

except they left out the part about leaving the cement to cure for a day before putting the tyre on, then letting that cure for a day before riding it.

Has anyone got the tools required to remove an octalink crank and bb> If so can I borrow them please?

I've got these bits, where are you based?

except they left out the part about leaving the cement to cure for a day before putting the tyre on, then letting that cure for a day before riding it.

so you need to get rid of all the old cement and re-do it? seems like a ball ache. glad it's not my bike

Is there a 650 equivalent of Maxxis Re-fuse in terms of being magnificently easy to put on/take off?

Bow (E3) and you?

I've got these bits, where are you based?

SE23. Not that close. Might be someone closer?

ah yes quite a way, well yeah thanks for the offer we shall see if there is anyone closer and if not I might be able to come down to you, cheers

You're welcome to come over and use them- just let me know.

thank you mate

so you need to get rid of all the old cement and re-do it? seems like a ball ache. glad it's not my bike

Not really necessary, it is a real pain and makes a lot of mess. What you can do is wipe over the old glue with acetone on a cloth, it softens it and provides a clean surface to the old glue for the layer of new glue, just immediately put a layer on, then do the same to the tyre, and refit it.

Given that I'm not that fussed by the chainring size (partly as I've not got a rear cog ordered yet, partly as I've found I was normally using 48/11 on the hybrid before I switched to Single Speed, although previous bike was 42/16, and the current is 42/15) which of these 3 is offering me the best deal?

On-One External Bearing Track Crankset - £74.99
Sugino RD2-165mm Chainset (SIlver) - £79.99
Sugino RD2-165-44 Messenger Chainset (BLACK) - £89.99

I'm mostly thinking about durability, and how good it should feel. Bang for my Buck if you like.

well I haven't heard of any of the on-one cranks sheering in half...

None of the above. The SRAM S300 is the pick of the bunch at your price point
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31621

^many thanks. Would give you rep, but I can't, so I'll have to owe you a pint. Remind me if/when our paths cross.

I'm confused, can someone help out with this chain query;

I took apart my old audax bike at the weekend to move the parts over to my new frame (VN Yukon) I'm completely happy with the new build apart from the chain which doesn't seem long enough as I can't get in to the largest cog and chain ring together. Now this is confusing as both chain stays are exactly the same length, why could this be?

I'm going to have to buy a new chain probably which for the sake of 20 quid isn't that bad but I just wondered why the chain doesn't fit now.

Is it the chainstay themselves that are the same length, or the horizontal distance between BB and dropout? If the latter, then a different BB drop could affect the length I guess. Wouldn't have thought it would be anywhere enough to stop a previously correct chain fitting though.

Both vertical drop outs?

Nope the new ones are sliding, old ones were vertical. But they are the same distance away from the bb.

Vertical drop/gain is a good point actually.

Measure c-c from the BB spindle to the rear axle.

Sprockets the same size?

Other thing is the number of links between the rear sprocket and jockey wheel; increases with more b-adjust tension on the rear mech.

I didn't know about the b adjust.

I've just ordered a new chain from wiggle. Hopefully it'll be here by the weekend. Is the best way still to put chain on the largest cassette and largest chain ring then?

Not sure if it makes any difference but this is for a triple up front.

I'd go for the shortest you can safely get away with, so mesh the largest combo, then add several links to the shortest length possible such that the rear mech cage has some "headroom" for momentarily giving up a little more chain when shifting.

There are different approaches to this (have a read). It matters less if you have a long cage rear mech.

Spencey, did I remember you getting a long cage derailleur a while ago or have you not changed that?

I've got a Med 105 (which is new on there) maybe that's longer than the tiagra one I had before, not entirely sure though as I got on fine with the tiagra on my same cassette and chainset before.

I'll be back on here once the chain arrives to ask how to measure it properly for fitting then.