Any question answered...

DuraAce cones are at DA prices for a reason, but if you're a cheapskate count the number and size of balls an get a low-end Shimano cone which uses the same balls.

Which is because people think that a marginal improvement in quality warrants a huge increase in price. I once foolishly ordered DA chainring bolts, £42 a set! Even the QR springs were £7 each!
And of course they aren' a lot better, otherwise they wouldn't have pitted just the same as cheap ones do.
Many shimano cones are interchangeable, so it should be easy to get some usable spares but they have to be pretty mangled to noticeably affect the performance of the wheel, clean them up, apply lots of fresh grease and new balls, and adjust very carefully. They should be fine.

That's what I wanted to hear ;)

Looking about, it seems any M10x15mm ones should work, though all the other ones I can find that size don't have the seals.

There is a place in the US selling NOS DA ones for $9. Waiting for a shipping quote and I'll probably order those and rebuild the ones I have in the mean time. Must remember to dig out that expensive DA grease I bought a while back...

I know there are 9 1/4" balls per side.

In that case, most Shimano cones will work bearing-wise, might be a small difference in thickness that needs compensating for with washers added or removed.

Which is because people think that a marginal improvement in quality warrants a huge increase in price.

It's because a marginal improvement in quality costs a lot to achieve, for technological and economic reasons too obvious to bear repetition. The trouble with mass production is that it has made good products so cheap that excellent ones look expensive, when in an historical context even DuraAce is astonishing value for money.

new balls

I use these
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p37916/1/4+inch+Diameter+Grade+10+Hardened+AISI+52100+Chrome+Steel+Ball+Bearings/product_info.html
for hub rebuilds

Ok, one for the computer geniuses...

Today my MacBook wouldn't start up. It chimed, had the grey screen with Apple logo and a never before seen progress bar that never filled up. The mac then turns off.

I restarted it using the install disc and used Disc Utility to see what was up. After trying to Verify Disc it basically said it couldn't because the drive was fucked.

I then used the diagnostics to run an Apple Hardware Test which then told me that the hardware is in top nick. I'm currently running an extended test which takes over one hour apparently.

It's a 2007 13" MacBook running Snow Leopard.

What the fuck is wrong with it?

I'm looking for a well regarded florist (organic preferred) that can deliver to Bournemouth. I've used Bath Organic Blooms in the past but it seems they're now pushing up daisies. Any suggestions?

iseewhatyoudidthere.jpg

?

You can fit normal tyres and tubes to any tubeless rim

^ ?? In reference to which post?

jus' sayin'

iseewhatyoudidthere.jpg

?

I'm looking for a well regarded florist (organic preferred) that can deliver to Bournemouth. I've used Bath Organic Blooms in the past but it seems they're now pushing up daisies. Any suggestions?

florist...pushing up daisies....no?

never mind then

^ ?? In reference to which post?

I get it now, Tester is so far ahead of the game that he's answering questions before they've even been asked.

^ ?? In reference to which post?

Some bloke asked if it would be a hassle buying these tubeless wheels:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160720939190&clk_rvr_id=308926701832

and then deleted his post

Oh, that's annoying.

Is tubeless really an advantage? I guess there's less chance of getting pinch flats but the weight advantage is lost when people fill them with that gunk isn't it?

Is tubeless really an advantage?

After about 8 years of using tubeless MTB tyres, even I'm not sure. For the road, I'm pretty sure the costs far outweigh the benefits, although that could change if one of the proper race tyre companies (Vittoria, Michelin) starts making them.

hutchinson have pictures of people riding their tubeless tyres with nails and shit sticking out the sides of them. I would go for them if there was a tubeless Ultremo or similar.

I'm fed up of having to reach down so far to change gear on my touring bike. I'll deffinatly be replacing the downtube sifters, but what with? Stem shifters, bar end shifters, or thumb shifters?

Also does anyone sell the mounts to convert you're dt shifters to anyone these?

These are the ones i have currently:

I really like the action on them so i'd prefer to reuse them, if possible that is.

Kelly take offs? there were a set on here recently
SJS also sell a convertor to turn dt shifters into thumbshifters,

http://www.lfgss.com/thread78188.html

SJS ones, they say shimano, but I think they work with any shifter, £50 though!
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/paul-road-thumbies-bar-end-gear-lever-shifter-mounts-260-mm-band-on-per-pair-prod20973/

OoO that is an idea also

florist...pushing up daisies....no?

never mind then

Sorry, I was so clever that I didn't realize you were referring to my little joke.
The florist question still stands; does no one here use 'em anymore, or are you all so far ahead of the curve that everyone grows their own? As it were.

Has anyone got the tools required to remove an octalink crank and bb> If so can I borrow them please?

I asked the following question yesterday in the 'tubs' thread, but i don't think anyone checks it...

My mate came off his bike last night when his front wheel slipped on wet tarmac. The tyre hasn't puctured but it seems the tub has come away from the rim in a section about 10cm long, causing a wierd lump when you spin the wheel. So, I take it the tyre needs to be stuck back onto the rim. Do you need to use special tub glue for this kind of repair or can you use a more readily available substitute like Gorilla Glue that someone mentioned in the tubs thread.

The tyre is a Clement Evolution

Thanks for any help in advance!

use tub glue
such as