Any question answered...

Ed - it is not the hubs that are spaced, it is your mind.

Think about it. Then look at your question.

Maybe you're not axleing the right question.

Since my next fixed wheel bike will definitely be a custom jobbie, logically 130mm would be the strongest and best option for a fixed wheel hubs, or is there's a reason why I should stick with 120mm?

Unless the flanges are further apart and the bearings are further apart it would make no difference.

Will speak to Mack about a custom 130mm hubs.

Unless the flanges are further apart and the bearings are further apart the wheel will actually be weaker if it's 130mm OLN.

ftfy

The unsupported axle between bearing and dropout is a source of weakness - bent axles used to be common on rear hubs spaced for threaded multiple freewheels for this reason.

Will speak to Mack about a custom 130mm hubs.

If you make the hub shell wider to get the bearings and flanges further apart for strength, you also increase the chainline so your BB axle becomes longer and weaker...

If he chooses modern cranks with an external BB it would be strong enough yes? To push the chainline out you could use a road chainset and put the ring on the outer tabs.

Custom frame- he can "dish" the frame, getting the BB shell 5mm over to the right of the centreline.

Crank clearance on the left would be fun to resolve, possibly.

Or -this is Scoble!- thousands of spacers, on everything

Ed, buy a fatbike and make it fixed.

Buy a fat bloke a beer and ride fixed.

Why do you want more beer?

Or -this is Scoble!- thousands of spacers, on everything

Custom mean no more silly spacers for you to play POG with.

Why do you want more beer?

Is this a trick question?

Don't ride fixed, it's a trap.

I just had a mental image of Admiral AkScoble.

That won't get your car insurance any cheaper...

When installing forks with a carbon steerer, is it best to tighten the stem using a torque wrench?

When installing forks with a carbon steerer, is it essential to tighten the stem using a torque wrench?

Yes

It could just as easily be the cable...

Are the derailleur and the shifter and cassette of the same brand?...

Thanks for the advice guys. I took the gear cable out and looked at all the housings and one was really badly cut with the metal wires bent over the hole. The guy I bought it off said something about adjusting the gears and obviously didn't do a brilliant job. Anyway, I cleaned it all up and fitted a new derailleur as the old one's cage was bent (and for £15 it seemed easier to just get a new one) and shifts are so much better now! Some fine-tuning to be done still but it changes with one click either way now without too much noise either. Just wanted to say thanks for the help and let you know how I got on.

DHB R1 road shoes are out of stock in my size (10.5-11) what else is worth going for around that price bracket?

These will be mainly used for commuting and weekend rides, will be buying some carbon soled (birthday) for summer time.

Ordered some diadora speedracers in my size, absolute bargain at 48 quid!

Am I right in thinking that if the surface of the cones of my rear HB-7600 are chewed up, the only option is to purchase a complete axle assembly or from a German site selling cones at €26 each? Seems steep to me when SJS seems to have all other Shimano cones for a couple of quid a piece. Are there any compatible parts out there that may be cheaper/more readily available?

DuraAce cones are at DA prices for a reason, but if you're a cheapskate count the number and size of balls an get a low-end Shimano cone which uses the same balls.

I'm just a little confused over the fact that there seems to be an official spare part (SHIMANO spare part Y-26898120) for the cone, but there is only one shop selling them and that the pair costs more than the entire axle assembly.

It's not that I don't want to pay DA prices, but don't really want to have to spend money on parts I don't need.

I'll have a Google. I know there are 9 1/4" balls per side. Maybe there is another Shimano hub that has the same set up and has cones available separately. They should do in the meantime until I can have a word with my local friendly Shimano dealer.

ETA: The place selling the individual cones seems to charge 2x the going rate for all Shimano parts, so maybe they're available cheaper elsewhere, if I could find somewhere that sold them.

Also, how mangled does the surface of the cone need to be for it to cause a real world noticable effect for a bike ridden on the street? It was rough as hell when I stripped it, and the surface does have some marking where it look like it's been gouged a bit, but I haven't tried just greasing it up and rebuilding it as is. The balls are currently sitting in some degreaser with the rest of the stuff so I haven't checked them, but the hubs themselves look perfect.

Am I right in thinking that a 26" wheel should put less stress on a coaster brake than with a 27" wheel?