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• #2552
It's a tyres, you can go years without puncture and have five in one day.
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• #2553
Hmm, no I don't actually, never thought to do that more than once a month or something, but I suppose that could easily be the case. I'll inspect more often.
@TooTallTim is that better than conventional superglue (have used that in the past)? Looks WAY more expensive!
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• #2554
Regular superglue is brittle so just cracks. 480 is rubberised, flexes with the rest of the tyre
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• #2555
Or neoprene glue (as used for wetsuit repairs).
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• #2556
So do you want the tyres to be inflated or deflated while you're gluing them?
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• #2557
Looking to try out some wider tyres for training. Really like the look of the Strata Bianca, but they are obviously really pricy. There is much more available in 28c, like the Schwalbe one. Will the 2mm really make much of a difference? Have been thinking about the 32c paselas but am worried they will be too slow. It'll be on a CDF so the bike will probably be slow regardless.
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• #2558
I apply the glue with the tyre inflated (so the cut is open), then deflate the tyre (wipe of excess glue) and allow to dry.
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• #2559
On CdF, a nice fat 32mm will do.
Pastels is a fairly slow feeling tyres regardless of the sizes, fastest "big" tyres I've so far enjoyed is the GP4000s II in 28mm that expand to 31mm on wide rims.
Even with 25mm, it'll still feel slow due to the nature of the CdF (long trail).
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• #2560
Panaracer Gravelkings 28c are decent, good grip, faster rolling than Paselas.
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• #2561
Ta. Wetsuit glue on order so will give that method a try.
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• #2562
Regular superglue is brittle so just cracks. 480 is rubberised, flexes with the rest of the tyre
Loctite 480 is basically "Superglue" (Cyanoacrylate) with some black rubber dust mixed in. Quality is excellent but price is oriented at industrial users--- expensive. A number of vendors make similar "good enough" non-industrial products including "Superglue Corp". Their 19030 costs a very tiny fraction of 480. Normal hobby grade Cyanoacrylate (as sold by craft and hobby shops) for the application discussed here (sealing slits) is quite sufficient. One is using such a tiny amount to bound the rubber so nothing to be "brittle" or "crack" (other than the rubber itself that might have degenerated sufficiently from the elements to no longer be sufficiently resilient).
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• #2563
Thought about some of these for winter in 25c. Obviously not for gravel though so why the name.
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• #2564
Ta. Wetsuit glue on order so will give that method a try.
Don't. Wetsuit glue is a contact abhesive. Depending on the choice it might be a good tubular mastic (Terokal 2444) or it might be ... but for rubber slits? Wrong application.. What some people do use is Aquaseal, a urethane based glue, as a coating for their sidewalls--- I find natural latex better and cheaper but..
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• #2565
I've only ever used normal superglue. I don't even bother with it these days, unless maybe an expensive race tyre was cut on its first outing or something.
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• #2566
American. Gravel roads are nothing like what we see as gravel over here.
Awesome as a winter tyre. Plenty of grip in the wet. Not too bad on bridleways. -
• #2567
Good to know. The stuff I got was only £3 off eBay anyway
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• #2568
As much I've had fun with my knobbly tyres, I think it's time to go back to slick for my commuter bike. I'm currently commuting 26 miles in total each day. Should I either go back to supreme at 35mm or try kojak at 35mm for my all year round tyre?
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• #2569
Kojak would be faster, lighter (330g vs 490g) but Supreme has more choice of widths ..
And why not G-One? http://www.schwalbe.com/gb/road-reader/schwalbe-g-one.html
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• #2570
Is this ideal for everyday commuting?
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• #2571
The most 'delicate' of them is Kojak and I've been commuting and winter riding on it 800 odd miles .. all good
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• #2572
Sorry, to clarify I meant the G-One.
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• #2573
Durano
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• #2574
Should be. Its branded as a 'gravel' tyre.
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• #2575
Biggest is 28c tho
Anybody listening to Vivaldis Open Pave?