Knife porn thread

Or buy the one I got from him which I never use:

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/13697176/­
£150, no waiting, and only used for a few weeks.

More details?

I have a silver scale pioneer electrician.

https://www.heinnie.com/victorinox-pioneer-range-electrician-alox

Picked up after some recommendations here. Perfect for my use.

Do you need a lot of the extra gubbins? Or just a couple of decent blade options?

About SAKmodder? He makes custom swiss army knives. I am sure you have seen his work on that instagram link.
The knife I have was made by him about 18 months ago, a bit of a dream for me. I have now decided on another design, and will be placing an order just as soon as I sell the one I have. At the time it was $380. I am not sure what he would charge for one now, or what the waiting time is like. I waited several months for mine. I'll post some pics of it shortly if you are interested. The main difference between this and the original is the slightly greater range of tools and the quality of construction. It has scissors which weren't available in that format at the time (the pioneer range) but they are now. It has custom springs and is assembled on special steel bolts not the brass rivets victorinox use. The tools all snap into place better, it feels way more solid. The blade is also very finely honed. It has a polished bevel, and is almost as sharp as a cutthroat razor, but a lot more robust. Interested?

Yes, after the disappointment of the Boker I can see what I'm missing - the build quality in particular is critical to a tool being a good tool.

I've had a Huntman with me since I was ~13. The main difference between that and your knife in terms of blades is the saw I think?

Without trying to be rude or disparaging at all and as someone that spends more money than they need to on stuff quite regularly, what exactly is the difference between a $380 Robert Lessard custom Swiss army knife and a much cheaper victorinox?

The fact you know that is a custom, so can feel superior.

Saying that I did make my own knife, and had access to the tools to make it. The bit that tool the longest was making the handles from some wood a friend (who has a saw mill) had left over. Quite fancy making a blade from a circular saw blade.

Have I used it,no. Don't want to damage it. Cost, including time and petrol to go and get the bits....

Apart from @lynx talking bollocks, it has much stronger springs. This means that the tools including the knife blade are not so prone to closing when using them.
They don't actually lock, so are legal to carry without any good reason, but they are a bit safer. Having said that if they do close on you they do close with quite a snap. The side plates that separate each group of tools are brass and the supporting pins that everything pivots on are steel and made specifically. This makes the whole knife much more rigid and likely to stay that way for ever. I have bust swiss army knives in the past as they were pretty worn and then failed when the pins pulled out of the side plate. That and I got exactly the blade and tool combination I wanted.

That it, stronger springs? How much is the price difference again?

Edit - Didn't think that swiss army knives had springs but interlocking counter parts. Pins are a service item and do wear.

As @adroit says Bob makes his own springs (for the scissors and pliers layers only, IIRC). He can also make the side plates and liners in different materials such as ti, brass or copper and in colours and finishes. He also uses hardened stainless steel pins that are much more durable than the standard brass or nickel silver pins. The improved spring action comes from a better fit between the stiffer, larger diameter pins and the tools.

But basically, it's just a pimped swiss army knife. I'd love one but can't justify the price.

And it was cheaper than my Featherstone and Durbar knife that only has a single blade. http://www.madeinsheffield.com/view_item.asp?productid=3593

Just been cleaning up some old pocket knives

1 Attachment

Has anyone got any recommendations for bread knives? ~£50 budget.

http://www.lakeland.co.uk/17730/Damascus-Japanese-Bread-Kitchen-Knife-22cm-Blade

I have one, it was amazing when I first got it. Unfortunately, like all bread knives it is a bugger to sharpen so is now simply good.

Recommended nonetheless.

In my humble opinion
http://www.lakeland.co.uk/15224/Fully-Forged--Bread-Knife?src=awdef&afid=201309
Forged blade
https://www.opinel.com/cuisine-et-table/grands-couteaux-de-cuisine/parallele/n116-couteau-pain-parallele
This what I have as the special on the table to cut and look good. Like the shape of the blade.

https://www.nisbets.co.uk/victorinox-wooden-handled-serrated-bread-knife-215mm/c648?vatToggle=incvat&gclid=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImc3P5Ouq1wIV14KyCh2IZQ8TEAQYAyABEgIyrvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PLA-_-805517000-_-41587295437-_-C648

This is a good one and can be had for less.

Or standard kitchen devil on and throw away when blunt.

Pornworthy in a different way, but definately the best knife for cutting bread. Big statement, but I've never seen my cack-handed wife able to cut fresh bread with anything else.....proof, if proof was needed!

http://www.fiddlebowbreadknives.co.uk

My God! How much bread do you cut?

Thanks all, ergonomically I like the idea of the opinel and it matches the boning knife my dad already has from them. Aesthetically I prefer the victorinox though. I think it’ll be between those two!

What an odd question. I probably cut about five to six slices a day, every day I've had the bread knife for about four years.

I generally have seeded bread, which will probably help the blunting. Although I suspect that the main issue is the knife hitting the board at the end of the cutting stroke. It's very hard to remove an asymmetric burr from a scalloped bread knife edge, since steeling it effectively is basically impossible.

Since we are on about bread knives...

Why do they have such a strange blade? Why not just a normal straight blade?

To be able to cut through the crust with minimal downward pressure, which would squash the loaf.

You need serrations to grip and cut into the crust. But, a normal serrated knife, like a fruit knife, would tear the soft inside part.

No actual fact behind that ^, just my take on it.

Some loaves, like a thick crusted, flat, sour dough are not very squishable and are easily amenable to being cut with chef knives.

Also rye bread with no crust and very firm texture can be cut with any old knife, including a fruit knife.

Ha! It was meant to be rhetorical, as I've never blunted a bread knife.

But now you've detailed your usage I can sort of see why it's lost its edge.

Maybe you could bake your own sacrificial bread board made out of bread to sit on top of the main bread board? A lightly proved fine floured bread would be best I guess.... thinking more on it, you could quite easily make a duel density board using different grains. Spare boards could be frozen and defrosted as required.

To be fair to the knife, the only way I notice that it has lost keenness is because of how amazing it was when I first got it. It would easily slice 4 or 5mm slices off fresh bread, with very little effort at all.

I had no use for such slices, but it was cool.

I had no use for such slices.

Y U no melba toast?

I freeze a lot of loaves but slice them first and separate the slices for when needed.
Ideally I'd have some sort of kitchen chainsaw device but this looks good ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlcUrKpbd6o