Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?

Ok cool, decided to take the plunge on the Novatecs. Advised tyres for light touring? Only planning on carrying one pannier.

I would go for one of the Schwalbe Marathon models. The Marathon Supreme is light and durable.

I use marathon supreme, its amazing piece of rubber, nice but pricey

dunno - marathons?

Paging Ed....

I've done commuting on Marathon Supremes in the dim and distant past and they can be had way cheaper from German online sellers than UK outlets

Coni Grand Prix - Soo puncture proof, will do 1000s of miles. Good in wet. Wicked training tire.

Wire ones here for £20, 25 or 28c. http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/tyres-road-tri-track-rigid-continental-grand-prix-polyx-rigid-tyre/conttyrr510
And get 1 extra folding to put in your bag.

Folding here, more money. http://www.wiggle.co.uk/continental-grand-prix-4-season-folding-road-tyre/

I am thinking about building up a nice road wheelset, and am balking slightly at the price of CK hubs..I was thinking something at most the price of these:

http://totalcycling.com/a-z/hubs/hubs_road/HB_ROYCE_LTD.html

Is this a good deal? Sorry for the noob questions..

you can have a very nice wheelset built up with novatecs at one tenth of the price of royce's

wheelsmith race 23s for example

Something like this or some Novatecs will do the job just as well

This is one of those silly questions like 'what curtains should I buy'. But feck it....

Given the chioce between 2 similarly shaped tubular rims.
Both 50mm in depth.
One 390g and 23mm wide, and the other 350g and 20.5mm wide.

Which is the bestest, for a given definition of bestest?

I know the list of advantages for a wider clincher. But is the same level of benefit there for a tubular?

I'd be running 23mm tubulars I guess. So the profile of the 23mm rim should give a more aero rim/tyre combo. Difficult to see that being betterer than 40g rotational weight saved on a 'all-purpose' (ie. 50/50 climbing and flat riding) wheelset. Is the profile of the tub improved in any way like a clincher?

The profile of a tub is circular, whatever you stick it to. The benefit of the wider rim is the wider glue bed, which gives the tyre much less leverage over the glue, so the glue flexes less and you get less hysteresis loss there. Probably.

Also, 23mm wide rims are stiffer (mostly in the axial direction), for a given weight, which is nice.

40g per rim is irrelevant, it's about 0.08% of your all up weight, meaning a saving of 3s per hour when climbing so slowly that every other consideration has gone out of the window.

Cheers. I wasnt really losing sleep over the 40g. If so I would'nt be looking to 50mm, but 38mm depth. I just did'nt like the idea of jumping on the wide rim bandwagon. When, after thinking about it, I dont really understand the benefits for tubulars.

If everything else is equal. I'm leaning towards the 23mm width.

Sorry if its been posted elsewhere but PX have started producing 23mm wide rim carbon clinchers, hand built and all. 549.99.

http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/WBPCF45HBPC/planet_x_fat_45_carbon_clincher_wheelset_hand_built_by_paul_curran

Now selling my R-Sys, trying to decide over some essentially do it all wheels, so don't really want any silly deep section stuff

Looking at C24s, Zipp 30s and Ksyrium SL S
Any experiences?

Is there a massive benefit in building my own?

recommend wheelsmith, link above

Now selling my R-Sys, trying to decide over some essentially do it all wheels, so don't really want any silly deep section stuff

Looking at C24s, Zipp 30s and Ksyrium SL S
Any experiences?

Is there a massive benefit in building my own?

easier to replace rims/spokes when they break or wear out.

I build all my wheels, and feel it adds to the enjoyment of riding them. But unless you're real heavy, or real light. You can dial in a factory wheelset by spending 10mins with a spoke key. So there is little real advantage.

Now selling my R-Sys, trying to decide over some essentially do it all wheels, so don't really want any silly deep section stuff

Looking at C24s, Zipp 30s and Ksyrium SL S
Any experiences?

Is there a massive benefit in building my own?

Rebuildability is a really nice thing if you are on a budget. For my winter wheels I am on my third set of rims, each time the rim get to the end of its life I just send the wheel up to derek at wheelsmith to replace the rim, much cheaper than replacing the whole wheel.

I think velosport in putney have most of the duraace range of wheels to test ride if you want to give them a go, very happy with my c35s...

Yeah, the reason that C24s are exceptional in that they're light and have an alloy brake track is because that brake track is fag paper thin.

My laziness in swapping tyres about my wheels meant I did quite a bit of riding through this winter on my 7900 C24s. They were brand new going into winter and now, they're pretty much shot. No realistic way to remedy as I'm led to believe that sending them off for new rims is more than street price for a new wheelset.

Whenever I find the money to replace them, it'll be for something with affordable, available replacement rims.

Does that follow on to this years 9000s? I'd be getting them

Sorry if its been posted elsewhere but PX have started producing 23mm wide rim carbon clinchers, hand built and all. 549.99.

http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/WBPCF45HBPC/planet_x_fat_45_carbon_clincher_wheelset_hand_built_by_paul_curran

That's good to know. I've been wanting some wide carbon clinchers with alu braking surfaces for a while.

If PX have complete wheelsets then that means the Chinese Co's should have individual rims. Time to go check :)

Don't know, but I'd look into it. I know (after the fact) that it's a recognised drawback to the generations up to and including 7900. I assume it's the same for 9000, but don't know.

To be fair, if I hadn't been riding them on awful roads, covered in shite all winter long, they'd be okay. They aren't exactly winter wheels and getting back on a Sunday night, it often looked as though I'd been in a cross race.

handbuilts for winter, factory for summer. Simple.

C24 and C35 the weight is isn't off the brake track its the rim walls that are shaved back to nothing then the carbon layers are bonded to it to add back strength.

C50s are a rim extrusion attached to a carbon rim

behold

Anyone got any pics of grey ano archetypes all laced up?

and/or ones with worn braking?