Polo Wheels (Tyres, Spokes & Rims)

Moar spokes!

What about Sapim Strong / plain gauge? Anyone running 700c chukkers have an opinion? Snoops/Vidal?

Sapim Strong: 2.0/1.8/2.34 vs 2.0/1.8/2.34 for Alpine III

Just get some cheap plain gauge spokes from Halo, 20p per spoke IIRC...

I got mine from Winstanley's (who are fucking shit), call them to make sure they have the lengths you want... The website is beyond shite and unreliable when it comes to showing what's actually in stock...

Spaim Strongs will make your very heavy wheels even heavier, dude... And pricey if you're running 48s...

Spaim Strongs will make your very heavy wheels even heavier, dude... And pricey if you're running 48s...

fair point

yes cheap plain spokes are good

What about plain gauge?

Double butted spokes

Pro:

• Lighter wheel for a given spoke count and tension
  
• Greater elasticity allows a load to be distributed to other spokes
  
• ...which means they have a longer fatigue life.
  
• Greater elasticity makes them easier to weave.
  
  
  

Con:

• Higher build cost
  
• Higher repair cost
  
• If your wheel is dished a lot, your drive-side spokes can lose all tension and regain it, increasing fatigue. This is less of a problem if you have a decent wheel builder making sure your wheel isn't full of wound-up spokes.
  
  
  

DT markets the Alpine 3 for DH and Tandems, I doubt polo is going to exceed their design critertia.

Nik suggested DT Swiss Alpine III spokes and 14mm nipples.

Listen to Nik, she knows what she's doing, or read this if you don't trust her: http://bit.ly/16RFSXF

Butted = swaged

The diameter reduction increases spoke elasticity, increases strength by work hardening, and reduces weight. However, the most valuable contribution of swaging is that peak stresses are absorbed in the straight midsection rather than concentrated in the threads and elbow, thereby substantially reducing fatigue failures. Swaged spokes act like strain screws commonly used in high-performance machinery.

They're 48s, FFS... Plain gauge will be fine...

Sapim race

2-1.8-2 ftw!

They'll make your already heavy wheel lighter.

heavy wheel is relative to your body weight surely

and also to the previous wheels. this build will seem like 12 spoke carbon wheels compared to the factory Eighthinch Julian build.

To a point, but if you can make it lighter and stronger then it's all good.

I've got chucker and strongs at the back, it's nice knowing that it's basically indistructable...

My last two back wheels have been this combo, the only reason I replaced the last one (and I'm about to replace this one) is because of threading the hubs.

Haven't lost a spoke in three years (on the rear), as my weight has gone up to 20 stone during this time and I've commuted several thousand miles as well as polo this might be a sign of overkill?

Nb: I've lost two plain gauge spokes on my commuting bike in the last year, but DT Swiss might be worthwhile.

stamp of approval^

Hey guys, im trying to get my front wheel sorted before the tourney on saturday.

My LBS has just rung me and is in a bit of confusion as to what bearings the hub needs replacing with.

It is a 48h Goldtec track hub. Does anyone know what size bearings this needs? He thinks that they are 6000 bearings but is not sure.

Ive had a quick look online, i can only find info on 36h goldtec track hubs, nothing on 48h goldtec hubs??

You can replace them yourself without the help of your LBS. Will let you know the bearing codes later.

surely the bearings are the same as the 36h? just the flange drillings that differ?

I'd have thought so.

Yup, IIRC front and rear bearings are different so watch out for that...

For sure the front hub bearings in the normal (not pro) Goldtec track hubs are 6000, I've replaced them a few times. The hub shell is the same size no matter how many spoke holes there is. Rear hubs take 6001.

Like beagle said its quite easy to do yourself with five minutes, a hammer to knock them out and the right size socket to pop them back in. If you're losing faith with the lbs go to your local bearing shop and DIY!

If you can find a vice/vise, use that to push them in so you don't misalign them and deform the bearing casing as you hammer it in.

heavy wheel is relative to your body weight surely.

And how fast you intend to accelerate. Moreso as it's rotating.

Get some SKF bearings, Jack... I overhauled my old Goldtecs with them a few years back, nice and smooth... If I can do it so can you... ;) Apollo's running those wheels now...

TS where can i chase some down in london today? Thanks guys for the help and advice!