Bike fit / correct riding position

As a duathlete with a nigglesome knee - and previously achilles problem but that's cleared up now - I'm finding this very interesting and worthy of experimentation. (I'm thinking of the non-drastic-shoe-modification strategy of "method 2".) Will be very interested to see how you get on with the midfoot strategy.

I'm hoping less pain and more power will be the result. If it actually works it'll be great!

not an issue when cornering under power then?

Looks interesting Hippy. Keep us informed.
Threads about it here if you wanna read up - http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=78316&p=688754&hilit=midfoot#p688754

Cheers dude, hadn't spotted that one.

not an issue when cornering under power then?

How far do you turn your bars when cornering?

yeah not alot most of the time, just wouldn't fancy the 1 time out of 1000 when you do catch it.... if it's a possibility.

If my wheel is turned that far in a corner I'm not going fast enough and deserve to crash.

Señor Bear - I wonder if that Jever bloke is still using midfoot? Anyone with a WW login care to ask?

Anyone had any experience of Specialized BG bike fit? I spent long enough trying to sort my fit out myself, but still no joy, so in the long run it's probably worth it.

Bike: Boardman CX.
Ride: 500K over 6 days.
Problem: Lower back pain, felt like the muscles either side of the spine in the small of my back were in spasm.

When I stopped for a piss I had to slowly straighten up, as initially I could not stand upright.

The CX bike has a shorter top tube than the road bike- does it sound like I need to be more, or less, stretched out?

How often were you stretching your hamstrings?

Señor Bear - I wonder if that Jever bloke is still using midfoot? Anyone with a WW login care to ask?

I've dropped him a PM for you

Cheers mate

The CX bike has a shorter top tube than the road bike- does it sound like I need to be more, or less, stretched out?

not only it have a shorter top tube but also a slacker head tube - wack a longer stem on and see how you feel.

How often were you stretching your hamstrings?

Erm, not once.

not only it have a shorter top tube but also a slacker head tube - wack a longer stem on and see how you feel.

Knowing almost nothing at all about this, I've always been told that the reach is the correct length if, when you look down, the bars are about an inch in front of the axle.

At the moment the bars cover the axle, so I was thinking I needed some more room.

If it's my hamstrings being tight, then that is more easily sorted out.

That sort of pain sound very much sound like a result of either a short reach and/or handlebar too low, but these are merely guesstimate, to be honest, I reckon you should call Scherrit up and see what he says about it just to be sure.

Personally, I think the whole axle/handlebar fitting method is an incorrect way of fitting individual to bicycle, but would like to know whether that's true or not.

like the kops it is a rough rule of thumb, not an accurate determination of fit

Knowing almost nothing at all about this, I've always been told that the reach is the correct length if, when you look down, the bars are about an inch in front of the axle.

I'm pretty sure that the bars are meant to block your view of the axle.

Well, my "rule of thumb" is true of my Cannondale, and that's very comfortable, which is why I give it any credence.

the saddle to bar drop of your cannondale is ironically less extreme than your cyclocross bike...

Despite the bars being lower on the Cannondale?

Erm, not once.

Stretch them. Regularly.

Also, if you've just done a tonne of miles more than normal on a new bike.. you should expect to hurt. 10% rule.

what is the bar to saddle drop on each bike?

Just get a tape measure on both of them and you'll soon see if they are setup different.

Just notice sloped top tube made saddle to bar drop look extreme.