Bike fit / correct riding position

Find a decent, old school LBS to get you fitted. It's normal IME to get the a basic fit (including the correct length stem) if you buy a complete bike.

It might not be as extensive as a dedicated professional fit but it'll get you close enough and tweek it from there.

If you still have knee issues perhaps reduce you time sat cross legged in sand?

I imagine most bike shops will advise you to buy a new bike and then direct to view their range...

This is simple to solve:

If they suggest a 56cm... don't buy a new bike.

errrm...

For free - ie no money, click on one of these links:

Bike Fitting Services

.....

On-line Fitting services:

BioMechanical Cycling v.8
http://www.mediafire.com/?5xnxnyynzih
...and his WW page, with more info is here: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51071&sid=c66b95baef28bc3a1c8bbc8e319d185b

Competitive Cyclist Fit Calculator
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO

...

Follow the instructions. Compare the results against your current set up. Change the bits that don't match. See if it helps.

All it takes is a bit of time and effort.

Worth bearing in mind that knee problems could also be caused by wrong choice of gears, angle of feet, leg angle (away/close to frame) and so on.
So even on a perfectly fitting bike you are not guaranteed to remove knee problems...

Definitely a bigger frame, also experiment with 'q-factor', meaning how far apart your feet are from each other. Crank/pedal/bb choices affect this.

I've always found bike fit calculators to be pretty useless - or perhaps I should put it the other way around - my body is useless at fitting what the calculators say I should fit. I'm 6ft0 but both of my frames are 64x58 (I've only ever seen two frames in that size and I own them both) - they are both touring frames so ridden rather more upright than racing frames (I used to ride a 58x58 racing frame and that was fine... for racing).

I still have a 12cm of seatpost showing (or 20cm to top of saddle) and I'm using a tall stem (8cm sticking out of headset) so it's not like my frames are too small vertically. Tops of the bars are about 3-4cm lower than the saddle. The stem is short-reach and the bars are reasonably compact - it feels like the seattube is right, but the bike is only comfortable due to the short stem and bars - and I prefer the handling of a longer stem.

I would like to try a 60x56 and use a really tall quill stem (Technomic or VO or something) but I don't think I'll find anything in that size.

I think I must have long legs and a short body/arms. That said, I had some done proper measurements taken (by a trained ergonomicist with all the proper equipment) that have found that in totally normal (some might say perfect) proportion.

I stumped up a huge sum of money to have a very professional bike fitting followed by a custom made bike.

I am really delighted with the outcome. Long miles; no aches; no pains; just joy.

To place this in financial perspective, I suppose I could have traded in my now seven year old car for a new model and stumped up what I paid for my new bike plus some to cover the difference between the part exchange price and the new price. Alternatively I could and did stick with my car and got my bike. Much better outcome.

I like Clives' approach

Stupid question alert...

I ride 56cm frames. They have always worked and Im aware that geo etc can make significant differences to fit.

Im looking at a 58cm touring frame. It has a standover height of 829mm. My inseam is 860mm. Is 3cm enough clearance for my cruids? I'd say they each have 8cm circumference and are shaped like grapes but my scrotum is making accurate measurment challenging. Willy clearance should be more than adequate.

Also, my road bike has an ETT of 56cm. This thing has 58cm. The roadie has drops/hoods but I'd be planning to use some swept bars or maybe even some pedo butterfly bars on this thing for a more upright position.

Does this sound like its do-able? I think its do-able.

If you're going more upright, why are you looking at a longer frame?

Sounds to me like it would be too long if you're comfortable on 56cm already #neverofferfittingadviceonline

Its second hand and its a great deal.... I wouldn't be looking at it in a 58 if it wasn't.

I agree... I dont think its going to work.

:(

Thanks for the non online fitting advice

Swept back bars = longer frame compatibility. Get a tall stem and your even further ahead. Behind.

You can often get around a frame that's too small but not so easy when it's too big. Also if it's touring-esque I assume you'd be doing more miles on it than a commuter which makes comfort/fit more important.

Could be, I'm just hearkening back to when I was a youngster and being curled up on frames that were the "right" size for me. This right size was maybe right for a racing position, but not for the kind of riding I did/do.

Touring bike have slightly longer TT due to the person setting the bar parallel or higher than saddle.

I think its too big.

Best to go one size smaller than bigger.

Going midfoot..

SRSLY?

You just did this? That must feel shithouse to begin with.

Stage 1b - we haz bought shoes and we haz holes drilled but no bolts long enough to go through the 3-bolt->speedplay adapter.

we haz toeverlap?

Going midfoot..

As a duathlete with a nigglesome knee - and previously achilles problem but that's cleared up now - I'm finding this very interesting and worthy of experimentation. (I'm thinking of the non-drastic-shoe-modification strategy of "method 2".) Will be very interested to see how you get on with the midfoot strategy.

I think Balki should get a longer frame so that he gets stretched out a bit more.

Looks interesting Hippy. Keep us informed.

Threads about it here if you wanna read up - http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=78316&p=688754&hilit=midfoot#p688754

we haz toeverlap?

There will be some/more but it's only stopping at lights that it's likely to be a noticeable issue. I'll adjust my trackstands around it.