Which Groupset?

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  • Not that I should be looking at such things.

  • ^big ring climb.

    for you. For me it's a 'there's a lovely cafe at the bottom' climb :D

  • As you can mix'n'match Sram road and MTN components, this doesnt really add anything.

    So if you want a hydro-disc'd CX trail bike for example. A Sram Red groupset with the rear mech replaced for an X0 medium cage for example. Would allow you to run a 11-36 cassette. If you dont mind the gaps.

    Or, using Erectric (this is, honest to god, on the Ui2 packaging):

  • HTFU is cheaper, less faff and doesn't require batteries.

  • Or, using Erectric (this is, honest to god, on the Ui2 packaging):

    I'd be tempted by a Formula levers, electric 105 set-up. With the cage extended. I'd want at least a 32t sprocket to convince me not go the simply go the cabled Sram route though.

  • HTFU is cheaper, less faff and doesn't require batteries.

    My new battery should last ~1,000 miles, that's not a bad maintenance interval.

  • I'd be tempted by a Formula levers, electric 105 set-up. With the cage extended. I'd want at least a 32t sprocket to convince me not go the simply go the cabled Sram route though.

    Standard Ui2 levers to Hope Hydro converter, maybe...

  • I'd be tempted by a Formula levers, electric 105 set-up. With the cage extended. I'd want at least a 32t sprocket to convince me not go the simply go the cabled Sram route though.

    electric 105 set up?

  • Theoretical 105 Di2 at this point- Shimano surprised a lot of people when they turned their attention to Alfine Di2 rather than 105, but it is assumed to be in their master plan.

  • Are you going for integrated levers as in those on the Colnago?

    with these beauties?

    Probably, I need to get over their inherent ugliness first, but I like the idea of hydraulic discs on one cross bike and going electric at the same time seems to make sense.

  • The offer of a go on my Boardman is still there- no electric, but hydro discs and drop bar levers, albeit with a converter.

  • Ah, cool. Hello alternate s-works spider supplier :)

    You may want to check first before committing money .. I know for sure they bought the IP rights but they may have tweaked it from the original Lightning design

  • Hmm: http://flwrider.com/2011/12/09/frankenstein-di2/#more-47046

    I ran a 7800 rear on my mountain bike for a while using a 10T upper pulley .. It's worth a try before getting a long cage to convert if you're serious ..

  • Certainly swapping pulleys out will be the first port of call, but interesting to have options.

    I think a large part of this thread should probably be moved to the Electronic Shifting thread.

    csb All my riding today was on 9 speed Record /csb

  • Probably, I need to get over their inherent ugliness first, but I like the idea of hydraulic discs on one cross bike and going electric at the same time seems to make sense.

    Looks to me, as the most clean and simple way of going hydroelectric.

  • One thing I forgot to mention- with hydro brakes and road levers you really want as big a "horn" as possible, as it's quite easy to brake so hard that you start to slip over/off the hoods.

    The new SRAM Red hyrdo levers have a nice big hood, I suspect both to fit the reservoir and for this reason.

    My SRAM Apex hoods are to be honest a bit small- bumps in the road and heavy braking mean that you need to hold on hard, or risk losing your grip.

    I'd be a bit concerned about those integrated levers not providing enough in the way of a hood to grab hold of.

    Campag, with their Oast house/Batmans ears hoods might be a good bet.

  • I thought exactly that when I first saw them, and have commented such on the Sram hoods.

    Cant speak for CX. But riding a CX bike on a rocky trail, involves a lot of loose holding of the hoods. Its nice to have something there to stop them slipping forward. Although this was always enough.

  • the sram website provides a load of bollocks on the improvements from 2011 red to 2012 red. can anyone point me to a good source of info or point out the differences? i'd love to go for the new red group for my new road build but i find the cranks really ugly.
    edit: just done a bit of quick research and it seems that there are improvements across the board, especially front shifting which seemed to be a real problem with the 2011 group.
    has this been discussed before? i bet it has...

  • Posted this link a few pages back which may be of interest?

    http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/03/news/it-works-we-test-sram-red-backwards-compatibility_209270

    And yes the front mech was the weak link in the old red which is why they bought out the red steel cage (re badged force) .. I use a 7900 DuraAce which is lighter and stiffer .. wouldn't mind try a yaw type as I like the concept

  • yeah, does seem like an interesting idea, cheers for the link.

  • I guess this might have been answered already but was hoping for a quick answer instead of trawling back through the thread.

    Which is better, Shimano 105 or Sram Force? Or is there not really much of a difference and it just comes down to preference?

  • Force, second tier groupset vs 105, third tier groupset. Hierarchically, Force. Weight, Force. Generally, probably Force. I would pick Force.

  • So, Force?

  • don't forget aesthetics.

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Which Groupset?

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