Which Groupset?

I see.

The 6600 one will work though, possibly even slightly better if you're keeping the chainset.

also 3pc red on fudges: £530 new

I'd go DA.

~£550

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-STI-Levers-Dura-Ace-7900-cables-Free-P-P-UK-/130660204325?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item1e6bf47f25

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-Dura-Ace-Rear-Derailleur-RD-7900-/251033515439?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item3a72c375af

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-Dura-Ace-Front-Derailleur-FD7900-/260996080783?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item3cc494248f

Email him, I'd bet he'd do the 3 piece for a monkey

Or try for an Ultegra Di2 shift kit?

You dont' need (or want) the Red front derailleur though do you?

agreed, i'd probably mix n match with a front force.

You should be getting very smooth shifting (by any standards) with 6600.
There were even a few moans about 6700's shifting when it came out (mostly sorted with cable routing though I think).

I've only minor irritations with the shifting, it's mainly the cable routing and hood shapes i hate.

Are the cables (either inners or outers) old?

[/QUOTE]
cables are 8 weeks old, lubed with sewing machine oil and are routed with ample room to manoeuvre.

I binned getting 2012 Red due to the dependency on the Red cranks/rings.

ORLY, i need to change my fugly fsa slk?

Or try for an Ultegra Di2 shift kit?

New, from a proper shop, thats over £800. Gotta be tempting though.

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/a60796/ultegra-di2-6770-upgrade-kit.html?lg=en
(just bought some stuff from these guys, decent shop)

My (now Claira's) Merckx with 126mm rear wouldn't fit a 10spd SRAM cassette in, smallest sprocket was hitting the seatstay. Be warned.

Hm - right. Noted. Will be trying the wheel out tonight.. if it doesn't fit I may have to sell the Merckx - so sick of having two bikes running two different systems.

Ben, I'm a dwarf compared to you, but you are welcome to have a go on my road bike to see if you like Di2?

Careful, he might TT it into the back of a car ;-)

^ what dov said. plus I couldn't really justify it atm but thanks for the offer :)

...You might get Ultegra though which is really good especially if you ditch the ugly cranks for something blingy-er

What (compact) cranks would you suggest?

FSA, Easton, Fulcrum, Zipp, Rotor, KCNC. Extralite, THM

Depends on budget. If budget is low then bling cranks are not really an option

Yes, you're probably right.

TBH I really just want to switch my 6700 for a 6750, just to avoid any bottom bracket faff.

I had someone offer me a set of KCNC's for $300CAD posted... but I just didn't have the cash at the time.

EDIT:

Is it me or go the Fulcrum's look like campag?

Is it me or go the Fulcrum's look like campag?

Fulcrum is a subsidiary of Campagnolo, so I'd imagine the chainset are very similar. They even use Ultra-Torque IIRC.

FSA, Easton, Fulcrum, Zipp, Rotor, KCNC. Extralite, THM

Depends on budget. If budget is low then bling cranks are not really an option

FSA? Easton? Really? Recalls galore there I thought...

I read it on the internet so it must be true.

But both the Gossamer and Team issue FSA cranks I have are junk; according to Cannondale I should have the Gossamer 'looked at' and the Mega Exo team issue... urrgh. That's getting replaced with a 6700 crank.

KCNC. But not the ISIS ones.

Rotor are heavy and overpriced. Which why I bought them for my BMC (they be stiff as hell).

It's a real shame Campag are going backwards, although Shimano/Sram users seem happy enough with the best shifting.

FTFY.

No, Boonenesque "why is my chain outside my derailler cage" moments, either.

cables are 8 weeks old, lubed with sewing machine oil and are routed with ample room to manoeuvre.[/QUOTE]

Shimano cables shouldn't be lubed.

... or any kevlar cables

Hm - right. Noted. Will be trying the wheel out tonight.. if it doesn't fit I may have to sell the Merckx - so sick of having two bikes running two different systems.

My Donahue has 126mm dropouts and has been fine running 9sp Ultegra and is now running 10sp Centaur without any problems. When the chain is in the bottom of the cassette it is incredibly close to the seat stay.

Shimano cranks may be uggers, but they are very very good.

Failing that, I'd go for Rotor, if it was a BSA BB, or Hollowgrams if BB30/PF30.

Altho I'm not a fan of the looks, bar the brakes the bikets all Ultegra, so it makes sense to stick.

I saw someone selling red cranks at a good price, so I was thinking of just using those...and probably just stripping to the raw carbon.

But if I'm then going to have to work out which BB, then buy it, fit it, etc. it seems like a false economy. I've got to say I much prefer tinkering with old bikes. Appart from the odd incompatiblility they're much simpler.

Shimano cranks may be uggers, but they are very very good.

Failing that, I'd go for Rotor, if it was a BSA BB, or Hollowgrams if BB30/PF30.

If you look at any mass crankset test. The standard cranks that come with Campagnolo, Shimano, or Sram groupsets. Always score near the top. Theres not much reason to go aftermarket IMHO.

I love my Rotors. They are stiff as feck, and the fugly CNC'd looks match my bike. I'm fasinated by the non-circular rings too. But if Campag did 165 cranks. Thats were the smart money would have gone .

Taking into account cost, weight, and stiffness. KCNC are hard to beat IMO.

It's a bit difficult to call as it's not a direct comparison, but I've ridden Ultegra Di2 and Dura Ace Di2 back to back, the Ultegra with Shimano cranks and the DA with Cannondale Hollowgram/SRM cranks.

On the road they both performed flawlessly- you knew the shift had happened because the pedaling effort required changed, but it's pretty much silent, and so fast- the shift speed is on a par with rear shifting.

However, and this is where it's not quite direct, doing turbo drills I found that I had to back off slightly on the Dura Ace during the shift, which was a slight disapointment as I had read that you could shift whilst under load, pretty much irrespective of that load.

I wonder if this is because the Shimano chainrings are inherently stiffer than the Cannondale Mk V's, and if I'd has the Ultegra bike on the turbo and tried shifting at ~500 watts it would have performed better.

But I didn't have both bikes at that point, so I never tested it.

This never occurs on the road though- it just works.

My choice of cranks for a new bike would also bear in mind whether or not they are compatible with a power meter, and this is where the modular cranks such as the Rotor, Hollowgram and so on really score, as you can buy a Quarq, Power2max or SRM spider and bolt it in.

You can also change from 53/39 to 50/34 very easily, again by swapping the spider out.

I have Hollowgram cranks on the crosser and the road bike, the crosser has 50/34, the road bike 53/39, but I can swap that with a large allen key and a lockring tool.