Polo Bikes

Yo Ande, the other thing to be mindful of is the fact that the stated geometry may not actually be correct. Having measured it, my pompetamine is a full degree slacker than stated (this is using the stock pompetamine forks). And i've found a lot of manufacturers bikes to have their geometry way off the stated values - but then i'm a nerd who likes to measure things.

My pompetamine measures at 71.5degrees HTA with 400mm forks. This means that using the 435mm a-c ones will slacken off your headtube nearly another 2 degrees.

Dinnae do it. If you want geo advice give me a buzz on one of them there scottish forums.

Can also braze on v-brake mounts at cost if you're wanting.

Cheers for the info and offer.
TBH i dunno whther I'll end up playing polo on it or not - yeah I know, no polo no talk.
Being able to barspin would be nice as would having a bike that doesn't handle too much like an oil tanker, beyond that I'm easy.
Think i'm gonna build the Pomp with my old forks just now n get a set of decent forks with the next student loan payment.

Ta.

Yo Ande, the other thing to be mindful of is the fact that the stated geometry may not actually be correct. Having measured it, my pompetamine is a full degree slacker than stated (this is using the stock pompetamine forks). And i've found a lot of manufacturers bikes to have their geometry way off the stated values - but then i'm a nerd who likes to measure things.

ha! that's insane

So I'm going to buy Tim's Bruiser with Cobra BB17 trick fork, but just wondered if there's a fork out there similar but with mounts for a disc brake?

Just ordered one of these from the US...

A hipster picture of the death of polo DIY?

The Polocalypse™...

A hipster picture of the death of polo DIY?

'Death of polo DIY'? I'd say that could be attributed to a mallet head or a wheel cover. But a brake lever? I want my brakes precision engineered by professionals please.

But a frame built in a shack? I am confused...

'Death of polo DIY'? I'd say that could be attributed to a mallet head or a wheel cover. But a brake lever? I want my brakes precision engineered by professionals please.

#beaglesckbrn #doubleouch

ha! Beagle finally posts a joke!

Quite possibly the best cuss on Forum 24 ever, it gets better every time I come back for another look...

See: http://www.lfgss.com/post2460235-51738.html

^^^^^

Anyone got experience of riding Schwalbe Speed Cruiser tyres? 700x30?

Planet X have them cheap and was thinking of giving them a go instead of Marathon Plus
http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/TYSCSCW/schwalbe-speed-cruiser-wired-tyre

I saw that too, was put off by the weight. They're selling Kojak 26x1.35 for £9.99.

http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/TYSCKJK/schwalbe-kojak-raceguard-wired-tyre

Edit: speed cruiser is 595g, kojak is 295g!

is a 26 kojack good for rear? i swear i kept seeing ali slip out at bristol on them?

No good in the wet but good in the dry I imagine?

i just popped into a bike shop and looked at a set of those Schwalbe cut through samples they have, the Kojak looks super thin, i wouldn't want to run one on the rear, but i guess it depends how much you skids/what surface you play on....

marathon racer looks appealing, i think todd uses them?

Marathon Racer is good, mid-weight, good protection.

Marathon Supreme is what we are using, midweight, foldable (for travelling), minimal tread maximum grip.

Both the above tyres are half the weight of Marathon Plus, so you will save nearly a kilo of rotational weight from your bike if you are running M+ front and rear. This is noticeable.

I wouldn't think that a kojak will be less grippy than a tyre with tread in the wet. If you are playing on a flat surface then you want as little tread as possible. I read somewhere, and I trust it, that tread is makes no difference on bicycle tyres as they are not wide enough or you don't travel fast enough to aquaplane. So unless you are on lose terrain, you should be running slick tyres for maximum grip. Assuming the tyre compound is the same.

*is this bullshit?

I like my koyaks, they do lack a bit of grip in the wet, and pick up a bit of glass though. Grip in Bristol wasn't helped by me running 80psi.

The schwalbes do look nice

ok i think marathon supreme is what i want. am building up a completely new bike and i need as much help as possible with frame design, i have no idea what dimensions and stuff to give? i am trying to base it on an RC frame but with zero rake forks.

Marathon Racer is good, mid-weight, good protection.

Marathon Supreme is what we are using, midweight, foldable (for travelling), minimal tread maximum grip.

Both the above tyres are half the weight of Marathon Plus, so you will save nearly a kilo of rotational weight from your bike if you are running M+ front and rear. This is noticeable.

I wouldn't think that a kojak will be less grippy than a tyre with tread in the wet. If you are playing on a flat surface then you want as little tread as possible. I read somewhere, and I trust it, that tread is makes no difference on bicycle tyres as they are not wide enough or you don't travel fast enough to aquaplane. So unless you are on lose terrain, you should be running slick tyres for maximum grip. Assuming the tyre compound is the same.

*is this bullshit?

I think this is right, but it wouldn't take into account the slimy paste you get on tarmac when it's wet. Then again, tyres with tread should be affected in the same way. Low pressure helps the most either way.

Snoops, Sheldon agrees with you (aquaplaning doesn't affect bicycles).

Tread is used to appease customers that use conventional logic and it's a good wear indicator (it also allows you to embellish similar products with menial differences: marketing). Tread is important off road, but that's it.

Different compounds (hard/soft) will still come into play, also the profile of your tyre, etc.