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  • the front valve is in the weirdest place. normally it's between the parallel spokes. A few of us build so it's in the V (two holes around from the parallel) but your's is right between the two. Not that it's matters though.

  • the bike's looking good though.

  • Yeah, I fudged that last night and kinda thought it'd be fine as it protects the valve a little more.

    I wish you hadn't pointed it out Gabes, my OCD will be working overtime now.

  • haha!, rebuild the wheel Jon!

  • Maybe, 48h is a bitch to work with though... Chukkas suck too, I had about 12 nipples stuck in the rim at one point, stupid, stupid.

  • yeah, i've heard chukkas are a PITA to build. If i was you, i'd just leave it. besides, you're probably going to run wheel covers right?

  • On the front yeah, lots of bedding in to be done on that front wheel first (interlaced 4x), I'll make a new disk in the mean time, fun.

  • with 4x, do the spokes (at the hub) run over the top of the heads of the spokes next to them. does that make sense?

  • yeah dave, what you mean is, if you break a spoke, can you get the shoulder out or is it covered by the next spoke?

  • exactly

  • Depends on the size of the hub flange.

    My Surly wheels were laced 4x and there was no cross over at the head of the spokes.
    Phil rear & Gsport marmoset front to either deep Vs or Rigida sputniks.

  • were they 48's?

  • Sorry no, 36s

  • treva told me a good trick jono, not sure if it is obvious but it wasnt to me, thread the nipple onto a spoke (from the top) and poke it through the hole, screw on with the spoke your threading to, unthread the one you used to wangle it.

  • That's what I did mostly, but often I get too drunk when building wheels and the theory goes out the window.

    I'll take a picture of the hubs at lunch Dave, interesting point.

  • It's all good, loads of space for spoke replacement:

  • what a mess, god help us.

  • ok cool ta,

    what about flat bars vs. risers...todd you switched then switched back hows it handle?

  • I have a flat bar if anyone wants it?
    Or swap for a much needed 25.2 seat post?

  • I have a 25.0 seatpost you could proabbly use if you shimmed it.
    No need for the bars though.

  • That would sweet Em, thanks a lot! Will PM.

  • ok cool ta,

    what about flat bars vs. risers...todd you switched then switched back hows it handle?

    I think I still prefer flats but have got used to the rise.
    I certainly need it.
    The difference for me is the width.
    I have more control on the turn now and don't do so many of those sharp turn twist falls!

    I still prefer a low bar for an aggressive attacking feel and only use a rise to take me up to a similar position I had with the Carlton.

  • I have a flat bar if anyone wants it?
    Or swap for a much needed 25.2 seat post?

    how wide?
    PMing...

  • I think I still prefer flats but have got used to the rise.
    I certainly need it.
    The difference for me is the width.
    I have more control on the turn now and don't do so many of those sharp turn twist falls!

    I still prefer a low bar for an aggressive attacking feel and only use a rise to take me up to a similar position I had with the Carlton.

    todd, i was discussing this with ray earlier and am interested. having lowered my saddle a fair bit i am thinking flat bars might also be a good idea. but was thinking whilst making the change i should not cut the flat bars so narrow. so slightly wider for better control right? it seems obvious but good to hear from someone with more exp (erience/ertise).

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Polo Bikes

Posted by Avatar for Shinscar @Shinscar

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