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• #1102
the bike's looking good though.
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• #1103
Yeah, I fudged that last night and kinda thought it'd be fine as it protects the valve a little more.
I wish you hadn't pointed it out Gabes, my OCD will be working overtime now.
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• #1104
haha!, rebuild the wheel Jon!
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• #1105
Maybe, 48h is a bitch to work with though... Chukkas suck too, I had about 12 nipples stuck in the rim at one point, stupid, stupid.
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• #1106
yeah, i've heard chukkas are a PITA to build. If i was you, i'd just leave it. besides, you're probably going to run wheel covers right?
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• #1107
On the front yeah, lots of bedding in to be done on that front wheel first (interlaced 4x), I'll make a new disk in the mean time, fun.
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• #1108
with 4x, do the spokes (at the hub) run over the top of the heads of the spokes next to them. does that make sense?
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• #1109
yeah dave, what you mean is, if you break a spoke, can you get the shoulder out or is it covered by the next spoke?
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• #1110
exactly
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• #1111
Depends on the size of the hub flange.
My Surly wheels were laced 4x and there was no cross over at the head of the spokes.
Phil rear & Gsport marmoset front to either deep Vs or Rigida sputniks. -
• #1112
were they 48's?
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• #1113
no
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• #1114
Sorry no, 36s
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• #1115
treva told me a good trick jono, not sure if it is obvious but it wasnt to me, thread the nipple onto a spoke (from the top) and poke it through the hole, screw on with the spoke your threading to, unthread the one you used to wangle it.
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• #1116
That's what I did mostly, but often I get too drunk when building wheels and the theory goes out the window.
I'll take a picture of the hubs at lunch Dave, interesting point.
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• #1117
It's all good, loads of space for spoke replacement:
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• #1118
what a mess, god help us.
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• #1119
ok cool ta,
what about flat bars vs. risers...todd you switched then switched back hows it handle?
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• #1120
I have a flat bar if anyone wants it?
Or swap for a much needed 25.2 seat post? -
• #1121
I have a 25.0 seatpost you could proabbly use if you shimmed it.
No need for the bars though. -
• #1122
That would sweet Em, thanks a lot! Will PM.
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• #1123
ok cool ta,
what about flat bars vs. risers...todd you switched then switched back hows it handle?
I think I still prefer flats but have got used to the rise.
I certainly need it.
The difference for me is the width.
I have more control on the turn now and don't do so many of those sharp turn twist falls!I still prefer a low bar for an aggressive attacking feel and only use a rise to take me up to a similar position I had with the Carlton.
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• #1124
I have a flat bar if anyone wants it?
Or swap for a much needed 25.2 seat post?how wide?
PMing... -
• #1125
I think I still prefer flats but have got used to the rise.
I certainly need it.
The difference for me is the width.
I have more control on the turn now and don't do so many of those sharp turn twist falls!I still prefer a low bar for an aggressive attacking feel and only use a rise to take me up to a similar position I had with the Carlton.
todd, i was discussing this with ray earlier and am interested. having lowered my saddle a fair bit i am thinking flat bars might also be a good idea. but was thinking whilst making the change i should not cut the flat bars so narrow. so slightly wider for better control right? it seems obvious but good to hear from someone with more exp (erience/ertise).
the front valve is in the weirdest place. normally it's between the parallel spokes. A few of us build so it's in the V (two holes around from the parallel) but your's is right between the two. Not that it's matters though.