Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

He's non UK so different rules..

Yeah, we live in the same city

When I wrote ‘MOT’, I meant ‘syn’

Didn't know that you were in the same place. So what are the syn rules? Same as the UK with wiper area and then passenger and driversides then the straight ahead viewing area.

I'd look at some videos of windscreen repair with glass glue. Repaired a cracked windscreen with a rainx kit. Lasted till the van was nicked.

Don't use super glue, use proper glass glue. Something to do with curing clear...and setting with UV light.

https://youtu.be/JGyJOX5wFFg

Normal 3 pin Uk plug, which is the same as any single phase welder (also 16A rated)

Great thanks for the link

I was looking at this one last night which suggests you need a higher rated supply

https://www.sgs-engineering.com/sc90b-90-litre-air-compressor-14cfm?___store=sgs_en&refSrc=2685&nosto=nosto-page-product1

I have a 30-40 cm crack running from the bottom towards the centre on the passengerside and it passed.

I would have thought if they were bothered by noise, running the grinder after 9pm on a week day would have done it but no ones ever complained.

16amp plug.

I’m aware of what a commando plug is, it doesn’t change the fact that products with a normal 13A plug can still require a 16A supply if they require a high duty cycle

It passed syn when the crack ended at the red mark. I then drove 1000+ kms without problems.
Then during snowstorm riding it expanded to where it’s at now.
I guess I’ll just keep an eye on it. It looks line it’s on its way to a critical area though.

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Farum Bilsyn approves 95% of all cars

Any recommendations for getting an exhaust backbox fabricated for my scooby in the London area? I was going to schlep over to Haywood and Scott unless I had a better / closer / cheaper suggestion.

It's on a 13amp plug, and draws down far less than the direct feed ones we have for. Tolling.

I can't say if it's going to throw your board, but as a incredibly unscientific observation, our smaller direct fed one's used for tooling will dim the lights on the same circuit when they kick in, the belt driven one doesn't. When @moth is in he could probably tell you amperage draw on start up, but I can't be trusted to play with the elektikity...

Took me ages to actually get around to checking the coil and plugs. Did it just now. Absolutely no corrosion as far as I can see. Popped it all back together and took it for a test drive - no issue. Mrs Sparky is vague about what the issue was, so I’ll take it for a longer drive this weekend (breakdown paperwork in hand) and see if it misbehaves. Weird, eh?

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Dealership were after £570 for “corroded coil and plugs”...

Send the photos to the dealership and cc the ombudsman

I popped an email off to Vauxhall. Not really expecting anything from it. As long as the car behaves on the weekend then I'm happy to put it behind me, but Mrs Sparky keeps talking about how the car is going to explode and how she wants to buy a new one, which is great...

Won't be going back to the dealership.

Cam designer has got involved with the 911 engine project, and has put the stock cams in his CMM.

Behold how weedy they are:

Inlet:-

Cam Lift = 10.500mm / 0.413”
Cam Duration at 0.102mm / 0.004” = 272°
Cam Duration at 0.508mm / 0.020” = 238°
Cam Duration at 1.000mm / 0.039” = 224°
Cam Duration at 1.270mm / 0.050” = 218°
Cam BCD = 35.000mm

Exhaust:-

Cam Lift = 9.982mm / 0.393”
Cam Duration at 0.102mm / 0.004” = 260°
Cam Duration at 0.508mm / 0.020” = 226°
Cam Duration at 1.000mm / 0.039” = 212°
Cam Duration at 1.270mm / 0.050” = 206°

Cam BCD = 35.000mm

There is a degree of consternation as to how those cams made 300 bhp, but that may mean that we'll get good results from a less extreme cam than we had thought.

This brings back into play the idea of re-grinding stock cams rather than using billet, and the cam designer also thinks that the stock, flat lifters can survive 8,200 rpm with the new tappet chests.

This would mean that we don't have to move to the rather lovely, DLC, domed GT3 lifters:

Which are, as mentioned, lovely - but with the billet cams already mentioned are probably 6k per engine that I'm quite glad we may be able to avoid.

Cam chap has come up with three different grinds of increasing lift and duration, topping out at a 12.5 lift intake and 11.5 exhaust. We'll grind a set of each and then dyno them back-to-back in each engine (one 3.7 and one 3.9) to get an understanding of the tradeoff between tractability and power - for e.g. the highest lift cam may lack the power to pull a greased stick from a pigs bottom until 4,000 rpm, at which point it starts a Saturn V impersonation. We shall see.

All of this means we need to get on with making the E60 M5 ITB's work nicely with the M96 heads and the GT3-RS centre section, whilst also getting an exhaust place to make some equal length manifolds to the correct specification. Exciting times.

The main problem with running small belt drive motor compressors of a 13amp plug is they are much more susceptible to blowing on start up, as the motor works hard to fill the unpressurised tank - the bigger the tank, the more likely it is to blow. Once its full and with the motor just kicking in to top the tank up to pressure is no problem for 13 Amp at all / it’s just the start up that can cause issues. I put a 32 amp circuit in for my old 150l belt driven unit.

That was a while back though, and my memory is hazy. I ended up forking out for a big boy screw compressor with a 300L reciever after a year or so, cos belt drive motors are total shit for anything that requires decent air for longer than five minutes.

And the noise. Jesus fucking Christ the noise. If you are using it in a confined space you will want to kill yourself after 10 minutes...... My farts are louder than my screw compressor.

Powdery stuff in number one coil, just dust or corrosion? Get a torch deep down inside and check contacts In the end.
Clean up spark plug threads and contact with a tooth brush sized brass brush. They do get a certain amount of surface corrosion over the years but have to be very bad to cause no spark /misfire issues on a regular town car.

Some powder, but didn’t seem like corrosion. Number one is closest to the outside world, so figured it was from a dusty road or similar. Blew it out and popped it back. I couldn’t make it stutter when driving it but I’ll take it out of town at the weekend for a proper drive.

I’d love an Archimedes compressor but I just can’t shell out for that kind of thing until I’ve moved house and sorted a new workshop (which is the long term plan).

I’m tempted to buy a cheaper direct drive one just to tide me over, I can fortunately also put it in the other building directly behind my garage so I’m not actually in the same room as it while it’s making a tonne of noise