Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

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  • I foolishly got it into my head to make a couple of keyrings for some car obsessed nephews. They're 11 years old, mad about cars and in particular AMGs/Mercs, but anything spoken highly of by the Top Gear cast.

    I thought it would be a piece of cake to get old, used engine part from ebay for pennies, clean it, drill a hole, insert a split ring and job's a good 'un. Something along the lines of: http://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/106195883/car-engine-part-keychain-salvaged?ref=shop_home_active

    Turns out, it's really not that easy to find suitable parts and I'm not paying £100 for a couple of key rings.

    Anyone got any suggestions for cheap, parts that I could get without having to spend a day digging through a scrap yard that may have a Merc/Porsche/etc logo stamped on them? Anyone have some old bits lying about they want rid of?

  • You're looking in the wrong place.
    That looks like a bearing shell. You'd be better off contacting a garage that do engine rebuilds for scrap parts like that. Try Automerc in N22: http://www.djcod.net/what.php

    Ebay's only likely to have parts that are still viable.

  • Yeah, I've looked at loads of big/little end journals and found plenty, but none of them seem to be stamped like that guys. And yeah, that's the problem I'm running up against...for the money I'm prepared to spend, new is out, nobody wants to list stuff that's only good for scrap on ebay and cheap parts are just parts bin generic manufactured things.

    I''l check out Automerc, cheers.

  • Going to view this on Thursday:

    http://img.pistonheads.com.s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/Fullsize/peugeot/306/gti-6-16v/peugeot-306-gti-6-16v-S558621-4.jpg

    Ideally wanted a Civic EK(6) Vti to upgrade my sohc Civic, but seems decent ones are really hard to track down.

    Do IT! Great cars. As has been mentioned, check all the bushings carefully. A few little issues to be aware of though. Lower a-arm bushes tend to go quite quickly. Check that the drivers seat mechanism is solid. These are a common failure. Seat should lock and not move at all on the sliders. Check the air bag warning light. Normally just a broken wire under the drivers seat. Sometimes the indicator stalks to weird continuous ticking. The indicator stalks are a relatively cheap and easy part to install yourself. Engine wise, should be smooth and feel tourquey. Not a free spinner like a honda engine, more of a solid whoosh of power with a real noticeable kick above 3500rpm... should not feel any restriction. Be aware the clutches are heavy too and due to the cable routing they can stiffen up. And try not to lift off too suddenly if cornering, they have a lively rear.

  • All much appreciated, it's only my second car and only now at 24 are nice cars becoming accessible when considering insurance premiums. The first thing I asked the seller was about the clutch, hoping it wasn't too high on the pedal travel as replacing it is obviously something I want to avoid. He has also mention the clutch being heavy after replacing the cable so it's reassuring to know it's a common trait. Thanks again for the advise, all things that I will consider when going to view it on tomorrow. Money withdrawn, just what I want to spend so not tempted to go crazy.

  • For dammit... http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/volvo/other-models/volvo-360-gle-1985-2-3-turbo-converted/1440694

    The de dion rear suspension and ally gearbox made it very front heavy as the same engine was used in the 7 series. A 1.7 turbo'd had better wieght redistribution.

  • Oh, hai guys

  • Good induction noise?

  • It does sound lovely, even has the original plates, dealership window sticker and tape player :D

  • CD changer?

    I might have the one from my old car and the cable

  • Yeah that too, felt slightly annoyed as I thought the previous owner had butchered the parcel shelf to fit speaks and a CD changer in the boot, but seems it's to spec. Remember being in a 306 when I was much younger and I'm sure it was a lot beefier, but now much older it seems pretty basic in the nicest of ways.

  • Looks like you've got a good one Jambon. Have you got any plans for it?
    Can't beat the feeling when you get a new car!

  • Well, with your advice you helped me to buy it, so thank! The car's in really good condition, but at 15 years old there's a few small things which I could do to improve the condition. These are, refurb the wheels, touch up a few stone chips, new plates and replace the boot lining at it's pretty perished. The air con doesn't work, but I couldn't care either way and maybe see if there's a trick to improve the clutch cable routing away from the exhaust. I think keeping it standard will be my strategy, I hope none of my Honda brothers read that last bit.

  • A Peugeot owning buddy told me Group N bushes help these out a shit load. Anyone else can corroborate that?

  • Good work Jambon. Looks like it's in good condition.

    Group N bushes? Yes, they sort things out but also remove the playful handling that the 306 is known for. Unless you're planning track days I'd say no. I ruined my first 306 with group N urathane bushes in the rear, and some Koni dampers and uprated springs. It neutralised the passive rear steer and made it far too stiff, and understeery.
    Standad Pug stuff is better, engineered when they knew what handling was!

    BUT, if you can get a group N engine mount, that is a very good thing. With hard driving I was tearing the through the standard rubber mount every 15-20,000klms.

    Actually, would be worth checking the engine mount. Not expensive to replace.

    Good luck with it, if you have any questions just shout... I've had 2 of them!

  • Looks nice in black, Jambon, good choice.

    I've got a guy Dartford way that's currently doing mates rates on detailing at £100. Anyone who is interested, let me know. Wash, wheel detail, tar removal, clay bar, machine polish, and wax.

    You'd have to drive to him, but £100 is good value for money.

  • Before
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d102/izumis/3694AA73-E9C1-492E-A475-1AA8B03347AE-577-000000243117714E_zpsaad4e38b.jpg
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d102/izumis/E2E228C0-0D2B-4FD7-8C83-E20D6713A262-577-0000002428361F34_zps757d1566.jpg
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d102/izumis/9ABDB59B-2D03-4DA9-9ADA-CAF0B5F29354-577-00000024202D81EA_zps804aa026.jpg
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d102/izumis/6C6EA976-8842-4630-B07F-9BC06F766AEB-577-0000002415B27F6A_zpse216167d.jpg

    Before
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d102/izumis/DDBDDF87-20D4-452A-AEA0-EA853600312F-577-000000240EDA81C0_zps0026fcdf.jpg

    After
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d102/izumis/3118E350-506E-4FEE-910C-3F62B90CB711-577-000000240849A790_zpsf7e14b83.jpg

    Before
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d102/izumis/9B100025-E785-4E7A-9EF9-532C5FC446C5-577-0000002401190E2E_zpsef66aac2.jpg

    During
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d102/izumis/EF19B2E2-0F5F-406D-8934-13268E512E87-577-00000023F5C31EA9_zpse0229473.jpg

    After
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d102/izumis/DF7195B3-EE57-4BB8-9BB6-B9AFB1EFB0B3-577-00000023EA6FA8CE_zpsf0f27b33.jpg
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d102/izumis/2F235886-2A45-473A-AA4A-2731B213C9BB-577-00000023CC45AEEC_zpsf67e78df.jpg
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d102/izumis/BB3A8E90-4F41-4DFD-8DE9-3DCA565F0396-577-00000023C21D5B1D_zpsf5db6340.jpg
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d102/izumis/100E9FDD-EA0C-4204-9367-7F2968FC809C-577-00000023AD833E0A_zps3bbbb629.jpg
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d102/izumis/2D77C103-6980-47AC-9AD3-09B9D41839D4-577-00000023A263ABFE_zps5f9d84f9.jpg

    Pictures taken on iphone

    Example of his work with a black car

  • wow - £100 is crazy cheap

  • Good work Jambon. Looks like it's in good condition.

    Group N bushes? Yes, they sort things out but also remove the playful handling that the 306 is known for. Unless you're planning track days I'd say no. I ruined my first 306 with group N urathane bushes in the rear, and some Koni dampers and uprated springs. It neutralised the passive rear steer and made it far too stiff, and understeery.
    Standad Pug stuff is better, engineered when they knew what handling was!

    BUT, if you can get a group N engine mount, that is a very good thing. With hard driving I was tearing the through the standard rubber mount every 15-20,000klms.

    Actually, would be worth checking the engine mount. Not expensive to replace.

    Totally agree with this. Engine mounts and gear linkages are what I'd change. You can get stock suspension mounts from Neat autos on ebay. For the engine mounts and gear linkages I'd go to PugRacing, Miles is a decent guy who knows what he's talking about (he has a GTi6 on 320K which has never been apart iirc)

  • Oh, also if you ever want to replace the front door speakers, the space is very shallow. I could only ever fit some special order shallow Blaupunkt 6" splits or some co-axial 5 3/4 JBL GTO speakers in there.

    Here's what I did to my rear shelf too... DIY MDF, improved the sound no end... if you can be bothered!



  • Nh, pm me ur number so we can talk about that detail!!

  • Anyone interested in a Maserati 228? Bodyshell not rusty!!!! amazing interior

    Needs rear discs, pads. Deserves saving as it is a great car.

    PM me for photos and more details

  • Rescued the beast from the roof of the office car park. Bloody neutral safety switch. Really need to lean out the cruise afr....with the oil leak it's a bit like a late period Oliver Reed - capable of a crushing performance but mildly incontinent and with a serio drink problem...

  • Good work Jambon. Looks like it's in good condition.

    Group N bushes? Yes, they sort things out but also remove the playful handling that the 306 is known for. Unless you're planning track days I'd say no. I ruined my first 306 with group N urathane bushes in the rear, and some Koni dampers and uprated springs. It neutralised the passive rear steer and made it far too stiff, and understeery.
    Standad Pug stuff is better, engineered when they knew what handling was!

    BUT, if you can get a group N engine mount, that is a very good thing. With hard driving I was tearing the through the standard rubber mount every 15-20,000klms.

    Actually, would be worth checking the engine mount. Not expensive to replace.

    Good luck with it, if you have any questions just shout... I've had 2 of them!

    Totally agree with this. Engine mounts and gear linkages are what I'd change. You can get stock suspension mounts from Neat autos on ebay. For the engine mounts and gear linkages I'd go to PugRacing, Miles is a decent guy who knows what he's talking about (he has a GTi6 on 320K which has never been apart iirc)

    I really don't want to do anything that would make the steering heavier, but
    will look into the other stuff for sure. Cheers everyone for your experiences and info.

  • Driving round in the E30 it has diff whine, looked at the prices and cos its the highest ratio seems to be very high. :(

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Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

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